cd.thomson
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 06:42 PM |
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any thoughts? (cooling system)
so i bought a "standard" threaded (m10) hose joiner for my cooling system water temp sensor but of course nothing on my car is standard
I have a smiths motorsport gauge with soldered on cable/sensor. diameter of the sensor thread appears to be around m15 although i dont know if its
imperial.
cant find any m10 male, m15 female adaptors.
tapping the hole bigger wouldnt help as the sensor is too long so couldnt screw it in anyway.
any ideas of how to fit it? water hose is 32mm throughout.
pics:
[Edited on 26/11/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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dhutch
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 07:14 PM |
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Thats a bit of a bugger.
- Obvisouly my first suggestion would be to have a look around for alternative senders that suit the gauge. But if you have done that and not come up
with anything prehaps thats not an option in which case your onto using your current sender.
Obvisouly a M10male to M15female adapter is not going to be a common part for clear reasons and tapping out stright out to m15 isnt going to work
because of the sender lenght. (that one heck of a sender you have there)
On option might be to tap out to say M18 and then fab up or buy a M18 to M15 addapter that gives you enough stand off to get the lenght in.
Other possablity might be to get the hose joiner into a vice and with a pilar drill or mill bore out the m10 to m15 but at an angle so you can get the
sender in diagonally?
Or prehaps get a lug welded onto the joiner and tap that to m15.
As said, nothing is ever simple in life.
Presumably sender used to screw into a thermostat housing or large waterway that had the depth to take the sender. Which you now dont have.
Daniel
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dhutch
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 07:14 PM |
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Nice pipe joiner tho....
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sprouts-car
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 07:16 PM |
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Description
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 07:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sprouts-car
Description
... Yes that's exactly what I need!!
Good idea about getting it tapped to m18 and using and adapter then dhutch. Wish things could be easy lol.
Craig
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907
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 07:19 PM |
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15 sounds a weird size.
1/4" bsp or npt maybe ???
I made a similar thing to that to fit a fan temp switch.
The switch was off a Volvo and the thread was 14 x 1.5mm
Paul G
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 07:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
15 sounds a weird size.
1/4" bsp or npt maybe ???
I made a similar thing to that to fit a fan temp switch.
The switch was off a Volvo and the thread was 14 x 1.5mm
would 1/4 npt be slightly larger than m15? If so then u2u me because I have a job for you Paul 
Paul G
Craig
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hicost blade
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 08:39 PM |
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Hello
Smiths mechanical water temp gauges have a 5/8 unf thread and angled seat that needs to seal on another angled seat in an adaptor (this may also give
you more clearance in the hose adaptor)
Adaptor:
GAUGE ADAPTOR 5/8UNF(F) to 5/8UNF(M) ANGLED SEAT LMA008/AS
http://www.lmaperformance.com/Products/Gauge_Fitting_Parts/gauge_fitting_parts.html
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mcerd1
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 08:43 PM |
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Craig, I think I'll have some NPT taps if your stuck for someone to make an adapter
-
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 08:49 PM |
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it looks like hicost has scuppered all my newly founded plans to get an adapter turned!
So what are you telling me? I need to buy a 5/8UNF(F) to 5/8UNF(M) ANGLED SEAT then turn another adapter to accept the 5/8UNF(M) and screw into the
M10 
or have you blown my mind and really the jobs an easy one?
eta - or do i tap the hose joiner out to 5/8UNF, fit the adapter and fit my gauge - job done?
[Edited on 26/11/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 08:52 PM |
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An off the shelf solution would be to to put the sensor bulb in the by-pass hose using an oil cooler hose adaptor fitting.
The gauge should always be on the engine side of the thermostsat anyway not between the thermostat and the rad.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 08:58 PM |
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Ebay item 400069285503
for 5/8" or 1/2" see
http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Oil_temperature_gauge_adapters_31.html
[Edited on 26/11/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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907
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 09:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
quote:
Originally posted by 907
15 sounds a weird size.
1/4" bsp or npt maybe ???
I made a similar thing to that to fit a fan temp switch.
The switch was off a Volvo and the thread was 14 x 1.5mm
would 1/4 npt be slightly larger than m15? If so then u2u me because I have a job for you Paul
Paul G
Just come back to find the problem solved.
I was barking up the wrong tree anyway.
Cheers
Paul G
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hicost blade
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 09:18 PM |
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I would tap the adaptor out to 5/8unf and when you do you could always push the drill though the adaptor and make a clearance hole for the end of the
sensor
BTW the sensor needs to sit on an angled seat to seal, you will notice the thread is a collar rather than attached to the sensor (to stop the braided
hose coiling up when you tighten it up)
[Edited on 26/11/09 by hicost blade]
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 09:23 PM |
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im not 100% sure where that would fit on my engine BT, there is only a 32mm outlet and inlet on my engine, no bypass hose.
The original sender screwed into the thermostat housing.
if anyone can offer clarification id be grateful as i've ended up more confused than before I asked the question.
should I tap my hose joiner to 5/8 UNF, buy the adaptor listed by hicost and thats it, all done?
ETA - thanks hicost!
I will buy the seated adapter which should give enough length to fit the sensor
[Edited on 26/11/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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hicost blade
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 09:27 PM |
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Hose adaptor = joiner
Threaded adaptor = 5/8unf femail angled sead to 5/8unf male flat seat
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hicost blade
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 09:32 PM |
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I would buy a 5/8unf hose adaptor:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=GLOHA25
and the other 5/8unf angled to 5/8unf adaptor also available from tweeks but I can't find it on their site. Im sure they will know if you ring
and ask.
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 26/11/09 at 09:37 PM |
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my hose joiner ("adapter" is currently M10. I am going to have it tapped to flat 5/8UNF.
I am then going to buy the 5/8UNF male to 5/8UNF female angled seat threaded adapter listed in your original post.
job
done.
at least i HOPE!
[Edited on 26/11/09 by cd.thomson]
Craig
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02GF74
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| posted on 27/11/09 at 07:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
The original sender screwed into the thermostat housing.
Can you not make adapter for the housihng?
Although that would not satisfy BT with senor positioning since it too would be after the thermostat.
I am not sure it make that much difference since when the thermostat is open, the water out of the thermostat would be more or less the same as
that in the engine.
Obviously if the 'stat fails to open, a sensor in the block would tell you that easier than one after.
How about fitting the sender to the radiator?
Make a hole opposite the inlet hose so you can access the sdner to fit a nut from the inside?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 27/11/09 at 08:39 AM |
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if you have a thermostat you must have a bypass.
Without a bypass the thermostat will remain firmly shut until the engine is almost boiling. As a result you have a situation where the
thermostat is shut, engine is about to boil and the temperature gauge hasn't even started to move.
Equally well running without a thermostat is not a good idea.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 27/11/09 at 08:45 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
How about fitting the sender to the radiator?
Make a hole opposite the inlet hose so you can access the sdner to fit a nut from the inside?
Won't work ---- it will always read a lot lower than the actual temperature and if you loose coolant circulation won't tell you anything.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 27/11/09 at 08:56 AM |
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this is my entire cooling system BT apart from the heater bumf isnt included.
Craig
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britishtrident
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| posted on 28/11/09 at 08:15 PM |
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Sorry for the delay
A by-pass connection is normally a 15mm or 19mm hose goes in parrallel with the heater --- ie it joins the point where the coolant comes out the
cylinder head to the watter pump inlet (or bottom hose). In effect it short circuits the heater.
On some cars in particular 70s Fords the heater dosen't have a water valve ie the heater radiator is hot all the the time so the heater forms
the by-pass without extra pipework.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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stevepj
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| posted on 29/11/09 at 11:18 AM |
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are you still fitting a red top/20xe?
there are two engine temp sensors on the thermostat housing, small one for the temp gauge, large one for the ECU, couldn't you fit the temp
sensor in place of the ecu sensor or are you still using it with an ecu?
engine temp sensor is always best as close to the block as poss, if you can, use the one in the stat housing and bang your fan switch in the hose
joiner in the top hose.
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