Irony
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| posted on 22/2/10 at 11:24 AM |
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Totally stripped that block out now and I am worried about the condition of one of the bores. It is mildly pitted from the rust which is in my
opinion a crying shame. I don’t know if a hone will solve this or not. I popped into Northern Road Engineering over the weekend (they are the
daddies around here for engine work, recommended by three different people). They said just take the block in and they will have a look. Honing
costs £10 a bore and pressure testing cost £50. If it just needs honing then brilliant but if its beyond that and needs a rebore then I shall have to
have new pistons. A set of +20 thou pistons are £193. Is it possible to just replace one piston with a +20 thou piston or will that throw the whole
thing out of balance? If I have new pistons then I am sure that there will be a cost to have them pressed onto the conrods which is more
£££££££££££.
So I am looking at best
Hone - £80
Pressure Test - £50
New Rings
New Bearings
Job done!
At Worst
Rebored – Unknown but it has to be double at least the hone cost £160
New Pistons - £193
New Rings
New Bearings
Pistons pressed onto conrods
I am thinking that if the block needs a rebore then it just won’t be worth it as I might as well wait for a another engine of okay condition to come
along secondhand. I have seen 3.5 – 3.9 litre varients of good condition going for less than £500 quid on the bay. People on here are recomending
ditching the 3.5 for a more modern 3.9. It seems to me that the 3.9’s have more problems than the 3.5’s. Mostly to do with the engines being bored
to a greater diameter. Cracking behind the liners and liner slip seem to be common.
Any advice on the above would be read eagerly!!!!!!
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wilkingj
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| posted on 22/2/10 at 12:10 PM |
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You willl either get away with a hone and new piston rings, or it will need a full rebore and new pistons.
You need to get the bores measured to see how worn they are. Usually they wear oval. and about 5thou difference across the two sides of the oval is
max before a rebore.
The Engineering firm will have an inside micrometer to measure the bores.
Dont do any machining work untill you have measured it up. You would just be throwing away good money.
Its doesnt look that bad, but not that good either!
It depends on how deep the pitting is on the bores, and whether a hone can get it out. If not its a rebore and expense.
Also take the crank in and get them to measure that as well.
A crank re-grind will cost a few bob as well.
Measuring costs next to nothing.
You need to know if what you have is any good as it is, or if it needs work (read Expense)
I would also strip the other block, or at least whip the heads off, and look at the bores.
Take the sump off and then a big end and mains caps and take a peek at the crank journals. ie are they badly scored, nice and smooth etc. Then if it
looks OK get it measured up to see if its worn.
3.5 cranks are pretty good, and unless its been run into the ground, you could be oK.
I had two cranks both were good, and I only needed a polish on the journals to make it like new again. Put in New shells (bearings) regardless as they
are not that expensive, and worht doing when you have it stripped and on the bench.
The 3.9's had problems with water leaks, so be very careful of them. ie choose wisely, and walk away from anything boubtful. There are plenty of
RV8's out there to choose from.
To be honest, you will get very good performance out of a 3.5 in a kit. Its only about 6kg heavier that a Ford Pinto engine, and gives 150Bhp or more
depending.
I have a Heavier Luego Viento, and with a 3.5 RV8, a webber 500 (4 barrel carb) and a Viper Hurricane cam. it does 0-60 in 5 sec flat.
Its just under 200Bhp.
Thats Aston Martin territory. ie plenty quick enough.
If you want 3 secs 0-60, then forget the RV8 and stick a turbo'd bike ingine in. Not much else will get those sorts of time without spending
MegaBucks. Even a turbo'd BEC isnt cheap.
They are good reliable engines.
Also check out the Exhaust / Manifolds. If you want nice tubular pilished stainless ones, they will cost you a fair bit.
Hopwever you can aways start with stock manifolds and upgrade later.
Oohh finally... when you decide which block you are going to use, have the engineering company chemically clean it. Its worth it.
You dont want it made like new, then have all the crud come out of the oilways and ruin your nice new bearing surfaces. Its false economy not to have
it cleaned properly. Yeah... I know... More expense!
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Simon
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| posted on 22/2/10 at 08:09 PM |
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4.2
4.6
Back to my original suggestion and bin it, I'm afraid
ATB
Simon
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Irony
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| posted on 23/2/10 at 10:39 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Simon
4.2
4.6
Back to my original suggestion and bin it, I'm afraid
ATB
Simon
Thanks for your replies Simon and I have taken you advice on board. I am going to take my 3.5 to the engine shop and get a proffesional opinion on
the bores. If its needs a rebore then its probably not going to be worth my while. If my second 3.5 turns out also to be a duffer then I shall be in
the market for a another engine. That is then a whole new story...... besides if I can get my Viento to somewhere nears WilkinJ's 0-60 in five
then I will be happy as a pig in brown stuff.
Whatever happens I am learning!
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Irony
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| posted on 24/2/10 at 02:17 PM |
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Engineers Report
Just got back from Northroad Enigineering in Newark and I must admit they couldn't have been more helpful.
The fella came out and said 'Great engine blocks these'. Then he looked into the bores and said 'thats f*&ked that is mate,
I'd have to take 40 thou to get that out'.
So on to plan B with my other engine block. He said some interesting things about Rover V8s though. He said that if I am looking round for a second
hand one then a Defender V8 is the best option has they had brilliant heads that will give you and extra 20bhp due to the larger ports. He also if I
have to look round for another block then a 3.9 or a 4.0 is a huge no no. He said they are a complete nightmare!!!
Now I shall be stripping my second engine block to see what lurks inside.
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Irony
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| posted on 24/2/10 at 08:55 PM |
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Above is a image that I took of the original V8 that I have since diagnosed as a duffer. | might keep it as I can't conceive its worth much to
anyone. I am a exhibition designer and builder by profession so I can probably make it into a coffee table easy and ebay it. Got enough to do at the
moment through
Last night I tried to move the V8 thats been sat outside for 6 months (wrapped under several layers of polythene) but I couldn't shift the
dratted thing. I proceeded to take bits off it to make it more manageable. Then it started to snow and when I did get the manifold and gearbox off I
was thoroughly cold.
It was just a little bleak.
Dragged the second engine inside tonight with the help of my lodger (cheers Rich) and proceeded to whip the heads off to have a look whats inside.
One of the bore is just plain full of water and is rusted through. I think the engine has been sat outside for a couple of years uncovered.
I must admit I am pretty cheesed off to find both the engines are basically scrap. Well unless I want a 40 thou re-bore. I guess this is one of
those moments you all warned me about about where you just down tools and leave it for a few days.
I still have lots of motivation for the build but I am going to take a couple of days off after this little row a disapointments.
Any got a reasonable condition RV8 they want rid of?
[Edited on 24/2/10 by Irony]
[Edited on 24/2/10 by Irony]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 24/2/10 at 09:04 PM |
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That sucks. RV8s are really cheap now and incredibly popular.
Sadly outside is no place to store an engine unless its in a car. They need to be stored inside with all the orifices blocked off. Ideally having had
some squirts of oil down the plug holes and turned over a couple of times tp spread it about.
[Edited on 24/2/10 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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MikeR
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| posted on 24/2/10 at 10:35 PM |
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i also give hte engine a turn every few months and occasionally add a little wd40 into the bores via inlet or the next time exhaust.
Smokes a little on start up as the wd40 burns off - but it keeps the bores in ok condition.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 26/2/10 at 12:36 PM |
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That bloke reccomended the Defender V8.
Thats fine, but most of the Land Rover (defender) engines are Low Compression to give more torque and to run on poor quality petrol in 3rd world
countries etc.
You want a high compression engine, out of a Range Rover. Or better Still a Late Rover SDi or a Vitesse. TVR engines (also RV8's) fetch silly
money, but are tuned up a bit compared to the std Rover offering.
You can check the compression, as its usually by the engine number halfway along the top face of the block.
Thats assuming its not had different pistons fitted or a rebore etc.
Just a thought.
I have a spare RV8 in bits in the shed. ideally could do with a rebore, as its on the ovality limit.
Keep all the bits you have, as you can choose the best bit to fit to your final buiild.
You can check the Engine numbers on the Capriracing website, so you can see what the engine was originally built for.
http://www.capriracing.co.uk/RoverV8EngineNumbers.htm
Hope that helps.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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The Black Flash
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 08:43 PM |
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My advice would be to buy a book on Rv8s - it'll only cost you 15 quid, then you'll know exactly what to look for.
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Irony
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:25 PM |
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I have the Des Hammil book. Full of good info but mildly tedious
Does anyone know any good places to buy engines from??????????? I am searching ebay but more options would be great
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swanny
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| posted on 4/3/10 at 12:31 PM |
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Range-rover-v8-3-9-efi-engine-good-condition_W0QQitemZ300401994167QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item
45f15aa9b7
this any good?
you could try posting a wanted ad on here?
http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.php
[Edited on 4/3/10 by swanny]
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phil4521
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| posted on 5/9/10 at 12:10 PM |
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Having spent loads of time and money rebuilding a V8- best thing you can do is scrap this one and spend up to £1k on a nice one from a rangie- you
will spend more doing this yourself. Find a nice 3.9 with all the bits and a box.
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stevebubs
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 09:29 PM |
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Is it time to unsticky this thread as it's not going anywhere?
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Bare
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| posted on 6/3/11 at 04:06 AM |
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roomate had a "defender' Bought it new.. UTTER crap is the only honest descriptor.
'Kng engine was just Junk.. blew it's head gasket twice.
No sane person should ever drive in a machine powered by one let alone own one.
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Irony
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| posted on 10/5/11 at 11:18 AM |
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Thankyou for all the comments. I have a new short block now and its in the car. I have asked for this thread to be unstickied.
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ian.stewart
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| posted on 5/7/13 at 12:23 PM |
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If you want to stay with the RV8, Look for a earlier 3.9, not the cross bolted block, as they do have issues with liner shift, the 3.9 is a good
engine, not particularly high on the comp 8.2:1 I think, personally I would run the later foam coated inlet manifold, all the stuff will interchange
from your old engine, other than pistons, (different bore)
The 4.0 and the 4.6 use a bigger journal crank and will not fit the earlier block without major mods, there were some intermediate engines that used
the X Bolt block, used the small journal crank but later crank driven oil pump, normally the block is not fitted with the cross bolts. Unlike the
later X Bolt engine which were coilpack wasted spark engines.
Something different, Very different..............
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