Hi big wasa, got my TIS off ebay like you many years ago. Not the easiest thing to navigate but there is a lot in there if you can find it. I found
the 'connector view' particularly useful for tracing all the plugs and selecting what to eliminate.
Most of the dash gets its info by canbus by the same conection from the ecu as the obd2 port. For a bench engine I can conect a bluetooth dongle and
have a vertial dash on a tablet pc and use the Torque software. Or being cheaper I can wire it up to the garage pc like I did with the dta.
In car you could run one of the obd2 style dials or add extra sensors for any dials you like.
Fuel pump, Ive been looking a lot at this and have butchered a perfectly good st170 pump to see what makes it special. The answer is not a lot.
You have a pump and a one way check valve. There is a tube down to a bit of plastic with a tiny tiny hole that looks like it bleeds the presure in the
pump when its not running.
The St170 Is returnless for emissions reasons. It has a driver and a fuel presure sensor in the rail.
My plans for the fuel system are an external setup, so out of the tank / swirl pot into a filter, to a pump to a check valve to a filter and to the
fuel rail with the st170 driver running the pump and the ecu controling the driver.
Drivers are cheap and fuel presure sensor comes on the fuel rail so hapy days.
Its still early days as untill I can get an engine and bench run it I cant tell if the ecu will need any info from other items along the can bus.
Unlike older fords there is very little in the way of emisions extras to mess about with. No egr ect. So I am using nearly all the sensors found on
the engine. I will bin the canister purge and give the ecu a dummy load.
Its just what reading up lead me to believe ,I know nothing about car electrics
What you have done already is way beyond me ,Good work ,Its a pity theres no one local to you who has an ST
To test it out on .
I am going to try ,I have been talking to a guy who is using his ,Although hes stripped a few things off it to get it to fit upside down
I just need some longer 50mm silicone ,Im not sure i can use it if i have to connect everything up
^ this has to come off and the holes will need sealing ,Any idea what it is
Also the air tract lever needs to be locked fully open ?
Using the oe loom hopefully these parts are s not needed ? Or its got to be aftermarket ecu
Yeh there needed. The first item is the idle control valve and if the dsi doesnt work it will go into limp home mode and if you make the ecu think its
working the map will give you no bottom end torque.