Adamirish
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 04:36 PM |
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Xflow rear crank seal
Today on the rolling road my little Xflow blew a big leak from the rear crank seal, the main reason for taking the engine out in the first
place!
It was from burton power. So the engine is coming out again to fit yet another one. The question is, is there any one seal better than another? I
really don't want to have to pull the engine out again if I can help it.
Or failing that, is there anything different I need to do with a Xflow than with any other engine? I have replaced loads in the past and never had the
same issue.
On the plus side it burst on the second to last run so all was not lost and she performed very well indeed for an old boat anchor!
Thanks in advance.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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steve m
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 04:46 PM |
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Xfows leak oil, they were designed to do so, its called chassis lubrication
also if its still leaking theres oil in it, if theres no leak ...................
I love my xflow
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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Adamirish
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 05:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by steve m
Xfows leak oil, they were designed to do so, its called chassis lubrication
also if its still leaking theres oil in it, if theres no leak ...................
I love my xflow
I like your style!
In all seriousness, it probably looks worse than it is. What with it getting a royal hammering and not actually moving. 12 runs, most to 7400rpm,
something was always going to happen.
It did sound epic though!
John(the dyno operator) tunes a lot of Xflow engined formula fords, he needed one more run to finish up. He said to me is it bad? Will it do one more
run? I said to have a look yourself. He stuck his head under the car and said ah that's f*#k all for a Xflow and proceeded to give it one last
hammering!
Maybe I'm just being a fanny!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 05:25 PM |
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I know I shouldn't tempt fate - but my x-flow is quite good at holding onto its oil. It used to leak so bad that it always had a drip-tray
underneath when in the garage, but then I changed the sump gasket to a posh competition one from Burtons* and it barely drops oil now. I used to put
oil in the engine almost every time I looked under the bonnet, but now it's just the occasional top-up. (I'm going to regret saying
that, I know I will..)
* That tip came from Rusty Nuts - thanks, Mel!
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Adamirish
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 05:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I know I shouldn't tempt fate - but my x-flow is quite good at holding onto its oil. It used to leak so bad that it always had a drip-tray
underneath when in the garage, but then I changed the sump gasket to a posh competition one from Burtons* and it barely drops oil now. I used to put
oil in the engine almost every time I looked under the bonnet, but now it's just the occasional top-up. (I'm going to regret saying
that, I know I will..)
* That tip came from Rusty Nuts - thanks, Mel!
That's good to hear, it shows it's possible at least!
Though in fairness, there is a chance(a slim one) that it is the sump gasket, impossible to say until the engine is out though. All the gaskets in
mine are cometic. I thought I'd spend the money on the best but perhaps they aren't all that after All!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 05:51 PM |
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Mine might have been Cometic - can't remember (see below). I recall that the fibre bits were blue! I know that the rubber bits that curve
around where the fibre bits can't go were fiddly to fit... it seemed like I needed several pairs of hands and a few prayers to ensure that they
went in nicely without getting pinched.
Update: It wasn't Cometic - it was this
one.
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Adamirish
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 06:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Mine might have been Cometic - can't remember (see below). I recall that the fibre bits were blue! I know that the rubber bits that curve
around where the fibre bits can't go were fiddly to fit... it seemed like I needed several pairs of hands and a few prayers to ensure that they
went in nicely without getting pinched.
Update: It wasn't Cometic - it was this
one.
Oh yes, I remember that well!
Thankyou, I shall order that set, I also see they do a double lip crank seal too so I'll try one of those while I'm in there.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 06:08 PM |
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Did you change the breather system at all?
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Adamirish
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 06:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Did you change the breather system at all?
No I didn't. Well, not from how it has always been anyway. I have one running from the oil cap and one from the block. Both to a catch tank.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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perksy
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 08:53 PM |
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Pipes to catch tank all clear and in good shape ?
(Just thinking internal crankcase pressure ?)
I know of one or two Zetecs that have popped the rear crank seal due to 'modifying' the breather system 
ANY wear/groove on the rear crank journal ?
Burton seals are usually pretty good to be fair
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prawnabie
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 09:04 PM |
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did you remove the sump to change the rear main?
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Adamirish
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| posted on 3/5/16 at 09:27 PM |
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Yes, all breather pipes in good shape, all working as it should. Apart from the cap leaking oil but that is a given really!
When I say it blew the seal, that was perhaps a bit ott. It seemed to have a fair leak going at the time. Though the hammering it got will exaggerate
things somewhat!
And yes, sump was removed. Every gasket and seal in the engine was changed for new. The only issue so far is the rear main seal. Well, I'm
assuming it's the rear seal anyway as with the best will in the world, I don't think the sump would leak enough in that short space of
time. I kind of hope I'm wrong though as that would be a much easier fix. I have a tube of sealant and I know how to use it!
Everything else about the engine was absolutely perfect. Oil temps good, oil pressure consistent, engine temp never budged.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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myke pocock
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 11:35 AM |
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I will second the "no leaks" on a crossflow. My 1300 must be behaving itself at present. Having said that, I did have an advisory at the
last MOT but it was a leak from the oil pressure sender but that was around the plastic bit on the end which has the spade lug on it.
Perhaps when I finally get it onto a rolling road it will disgrace itself though.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 01:08 PM |
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I forgot to mention one more thing about the sump gasket - make sure that the mounting face is flat. I put mine on a very flat stone slab and found
that it was quite out of shape; this was probably due to the welding I did when I shortened the sump.
I found that the rim was a fairly consistent distance from the mounting surface, so I took my measurements from that (much easier).
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 06:07 PM |
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Did you lubricate the seal when it was fitted?Seals can be damaged by running them dry
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02GF74
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 06:34 PM |
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What is the surface like on the crank?
It its worn then seal wont last long
A trick, if it works on this engine, is nit to tap it right down, maybe 1 or 2 mm out so the seal lip runs on the unmarked surface.
Are you sure you not got problem with breathing? Coukd high crank gas pressure forced oil past the seal.
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sprintB+
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 07:37 PM |
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both my cross flows are very good and reliably oil tight , and get well abused, The one problem I had, was the gearbox front seal went taking the
clutch with it. Turned out the spigot bearing was Knackered and allowed "movement" but it had sat for 10 years in a field before I
restored it or not.
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Adamirish
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 08:17 PM |
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I have ordered the bits so with any luck I can sort it over the weekend.
Checking the flatness(if there is such a word) of the sump is a good call. I shall check that while it's off.
The seal I greased, it's the same method I have always used and has never let me down.
Come to think of it, there may have been a very slight groove in the crank. I can't quite remember to be honest, my memory isn't quite
what it used to be! I shall check that out. Good idea with fitting the seal a couple of MM out, it should work on the Xflow.
I do remember it was a real pig to fit. Perhaps I put a slight twist in it on the way in or something. It will be interesting to see when it all comes
out again.
I'm pretty sure the breather system is fine. Though with the amount of stick it had on the rollers, perhaps it just cried enough! It went on the
11th of 12 runs, all within the space of an hour or so. It was getting revved harder(7500rpm) than I would normally on the road so that wouldn't
have helped, not on every run I must add. I do know Xflows breathe heavily so I shall give it the once over too.
It does have a return too, would it be a possibility that with the pressure going into the catch tank, it is throwing some pressure back into the
block through the return? It does have a tap on the bottom of the tank so I can just block off the return.
I also did check the front seal on the box too, I was going to change it as a matter of course but there was no sign of any leakage or damage so left
it as it was.
Thanks again for all words of wisdom. I really appreciate it!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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myke pocock
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| posted on 4/5/16 at 09:32 PM |
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I fitted a BMW diff in a Skoda Estelle transaxle and left the inner drive shafts in place to prevent muck getting into the gearbox (vehicle parked
outside) When I finally got to connect the drive shafts up and push the car back and forwards the fine outer 'lip' of the seal had stuck
to the shaft and was torn off on both sides I think due to corrosion. ( I hadnt lubricated it)
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02GF74
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| posted on 5/5/16 at 01:23 AM |
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What people usually do is connect hose from the breather fitted on the block to a catch tank, tank usually has a small filter fitted so is vented to
air and no preasure build up.
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CGILL
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 02:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by myke pocock
I fitted a BMW diff in a Skoda Estelle transaxle and left the inner drive shafts in place to prevent muck getting into the gearbox (vehicle parked
outside) When I finally got to connect the drive shafts up and push the car back and forwards the fine outer 'lip' of the seal had stuck
to the shaft and was torn off on both sides I think due to corrosion. ( I hadnt lubricated it)
Hi,
Do you have details of what you did with to fit the BMW diff? I have a swing arm skoda transaxle, and want to convert to proper suspension, am
guessing I could machine up some side plates and use the BMW output shafts?
Cheers
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stevebubs
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| posted on 25/5/17 at 09:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by myke pocock
I will second the "no leaks" on a crossflow. My 1300 must be behaving itself at present. Having said that, I did have an advisory at the
last MOT but it was a leak from the oil pressure sender but that was around the plastic bit on the end which has the spade lug on it.
Perhaps when I finally get it onto a rolling road it will disgrace itself though.
Ditto - after I'd rebuilt mine, I had no issues with oil leaks. Used to fit 2 rocker cover gaskets, though.....
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