Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Leaking Clutch Release Bearing
peter030371

posted on 15/1/17 at 12:22 PM Reply With Quote
Leaking Clutch Release Bearing

Recently I have fitted my Duratec into my Striker and for the first time got the clutch system filled with fluid. After pressing the pedal a couple of times (which felt OK) I then noticed clutch fluid dripping slowly out of the bell housing. Not good, over the next week or two the clutch fluid carried on leaking until the system was empty

Just managed to get the engine out and was half expecting (possibly hoping!) that the clutch pipe wasn't done up properly but it was. All the fluid had leaked out the bottom rear of the bearing unit. So took the unit off and found the back, around the pencil in the picture below, all wet.

Clutch bearing
Clutch bearing


My question is do these often go here? Is it a known failure point?

This bearing came with my kit and although it looks brand new it is very possibly a cheapy from ebay. Do they make 'cheap' versions of these?

Going to have to order a new one but before I do I want to make sure I get a quality one this time All I know is its spec'd for a V6 Mondeo so any advice on a good source or do I poke around the web and pick one randomly and hope its OK?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Dick

posted on 15/1/17 at 12:57 PM Reply With Quote
Its important that the bearing throw is not to much if it travels to far forward then you will get a leak. Maybe something you want to check be for you fit the new one. Have seen a few do this on converted type applications. If you contact rwd motorsport they maybe able to help you out. Once they leak you have to replace you cant just push it back in again not sure why that is.
found this may help http://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/clutch-setting-hydraulic-clutch-release-bearing-speedway-motors
Not saying this is the answer but shows how important the travel is
[Edited on 15/1/17 by Dick]

[Edited on 15/1/17 by Dick]

[Edited on 15/1/17 by Dick]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
peter030371

posted on 15/1/17 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
As its off the car now I can check the throw is right, I am 99.9% certain it is but as you say doesn't hurt to check.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
rusty nuts

posted on 15/1/17 at 01:39 PM Reply With Quote
I vaguely remember reading you need to space the concentric clutch cylinder from the gearbox to get the correct throw when using a type 9 box?
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
peter030371

posted on 15/1/17 at 03:39 PM Reply With Quote
With the bearing fitted to the bell housing and then bolting that to the engine on the floor without a gearbox in the way its a perfect fit. The bearing is compressed right back to its minimum ready to be pushed out with the fluid. So I am 100% confident I don't need a spacer, in fact it wouldn't fit with a spacer
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
ALLAN 14

posted on 15/1/17 at 06:15 PM Reply With Quote
clutch release bearing

Hi all.
If you go to the Tilton web site and look at the instalation method for concentric clutches you will find that they recomend fitting a pedal stop
to prevent over advancing the clutch slave cylinder.
A simple bolt with the head against the pedal and fitted with a lock nut will sufice, you simply fit as described and adjust to get a clutch release plus a
small amount to allow for bedding in lock up the nut and that will prevent over extension of the cylinder.
Another thing to check is the master cvlinder the correct size to match the cylinder, was it bought as a set?
If you have the engine out you can check the operation before you reinstal.
Best of luk hope this helps.
Allan

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
peter030371

posted on 15/1/17 at 10:55 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ALLAN 14
Hi all.
If you go to the Tilton web site and look at the instalation method for concentric clutches you will find that they recomend fitting a pedal stop
to prevent over advancing the clutch slave cylinder.
A simple bolt with the head against the pedal and fitted with a lock nut will sufice, you simply fit as described and adjust to get a clutch release plus a
small amount to allow for bedding in lock up the nut and that will prevent over extension of the cylinder.
Another thing to check is the master cvlinder the correct size to match the cylinder, was it bought as a set?
If you have the engine out you can check the operation before you reinstal.
Best of luk hope this helps.
Allan

How do I check with the engine out? The bearing is sprung loaded in the fully out position and only fitting the engine to the bell housing pushes it back in....then I can't see anything?!?!

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
ALLAN 14

posted on 16/1/17 at 12:03 AM Reply With Quote
clutch release bearing

Hi.
If you have the engine out,Fit the gearbox onto the engine and rig up a temp pipe,
Then put box into gear and press pedal and turn shaft until you get a clutch release condition
set the clutch stop a little lower to allow for wear, Always best if you make the stop screw easy to get to
if the cylinders are matched then it should be a small movement to release the clutch.
If you can't rig it up out of the car then you can only set it up when all put together.
I think that the master cyl and slave are matched on production cars so that you cannot over extend the slave,
Maybe wrong but they seem to be strange master cylinders giving just enough oil on one stroke to clear the clutch.
Hope that helps a bit.
Allan

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
907

posted on 16/1/17 at 06:23 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371



How do I check with the engine out? The bearing is sprung loaded in the fully out position and only fitting the engine to the bell housing pushes it back in....then I can't see anything?!?!








Assuming engine is split from the bell housing and clutch is bolted to the flywheel:-


Place a straight edge across the clutch fingers, ( may need to be stepped to miss pressure plate shape ) and measure
back to the engine where the bell housing bolts on.

Place a straight edge across the bell housing flange, push the clutch concentric unit back and measure from the straight edge
to the concentric unit bearing face.


From this you should be able to work out where everything is located when the bell housing is bolted to the engine.


HTH
Paul G






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
ian locostzx9rc2

posted on 16/1/17 at 07:07 AM Reply With Quote
I'm sure I have seen this topic on here many times and I'm sure you have to fit a spacer .
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
peter030371

posted on 16/1/17 at 08:53 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the ideas so far

I am certain I don't need a spacer. If I fitted a spaced then the bell housing would not bolt up fully to the engine (checked that last night) without pressing down on the clutch fingers by the same amount as the spacer. Also the rigid bleed pipe that comes with the bearing lines up perfectly with the hole in the bell housing and with a spacer simply would not.

Reading various sites retro ford suggest that the bearing I have used on a Duratec must be used with a 5/8" (0.625" master cylinder and I currently have 0.75. But how can they say that without knowing the clutch pedal ratio? I will try and get hold of them today to find out.

I don't yet have a pedal stop (but had always planed to fit one) and whilst happily pressing the pedal up and down a few times during and after bleeding could I have damaged the bearing?

I have been told that my bell housing is a Rally Design one so I will try and get hold of them today and see if they can offer any further advice.

Any other ideas then keep them coming, it helps the old grey matter working through the issue

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
peter030371

posted on 17/1/17 at 08:43 AM Reply With Quote
Final opinion from Retro Ford is that my master cylinder is too big and has 'blown the seals' which can't be undone. £120 later for a new bearing and 0.625 master cylinder = lesson learnt.

Also learnt (again) that this kit which 'just needs an ECU, some gauges and assembling' needed a whole lot more and some of what it came with was just totally unsuitable for the job

Will I be ready in time for Wales in late May......gulp time is flying by and I still have LOTS to do

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.