oliwb
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 08:45 PM |
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Warning Off-Topic (Landy)
Hi, I've gone and bought myself a kenlowe fan for my series 3 land rover...just wanted to know if anyone had any idea how to remove the old
viscous fan?? I've got an incling that you need a special tool..is this correct?? Also anyone tell me if I've done the right thing by
buying one in the first place....(it's a 13" Kenlowe one looks in good nick and I got it for £35 so thought it was worth a go!)
Also on the topic of landy's:
She's finding it a bit tough starting at the moment. Its a 2.5 non turbo diesel and I've checked and re-checked the glow plugs and their
fine. I think the reason is that the fuel is leaking back to the tank somehow so that it has to bleed itself every time you want to start it. I was
recomended to change the fuel lift pump, which I have done with a new unit but this didn't solve the problem. I also changed a fuel line and
replaced the filter bowl with a new one and a new filter. I did realise that I put some of the o-rings on the wrong way when I put the last filter on
so rectified this. She's deffinately better now but still not perfect so any ideas much appreciated!
Also (landy again) smokes quite alot, its blue smoke which makes me suspect that its unburnt diesel which would explain the sub20 mpg figure I'm
getting at the moment! It just smokes lots especially at idle and doesn't have the power I'm sure it should! Again any tips or ideas
greatly recieved! Anyone got an old landy or willing to help out in the Aberdeen area (or Edinburgh)....Thanks in advance! Oh, and sorry for being
off topic....I figure that landy's are cheap (sometimes) and therefore low-cost....like what I did there! Anyway thanks guys! Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 08:52 PM |
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Usually cause is a leak at the fuel filter --- if you have a liitle rubber priming pump on the top of the filter assembly as on Rover cars and LDV
vans this is the first place to look, they develop a pin hole.
Not a dear part to buy new.
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clbarclay
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 09:15 PM |
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Is it really a 2.5, or a 21/4. Don't know much about the former but the 21/4 could struggle to start and/or pass an emissions test even when
new. Tip 1. Good earth lead direct from battery to starter motor. Tip 2. Spin engine for 10 seconds or so. Then apply heat. Then start.
Certainly if well used/high mileage have injectors and fuel pump checked. Land Rovers have a well deserved reputation for being damn good vehicles let
down by poor materials, poor build quality, poor engines etc. We ran LR's for 40+ years ( Series I to III) until we aquired a MB G-Wagen on the
cheap.........now tthat is a very different piece of kit for a farm runabout.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 09:30 PM |
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Blue Somke is Oil burning
Black Smoke is unburnt Diesel
I got 24mpg, which is average.
Cold Mornings, are you giving it some HEAT first?. Are all the Heater plugs working.
2 types:
series wound, TWO Terminals on each plug. ie (Heavy) wire from ignition goes to first heater, in and out to the next plug and so on, and the lasst
one is connected to earth.
One Open circuit plug and NONE work.
Parallel type.
Once heavy wire is terminated on the single terminal of each heater plug. ie if one plug goes open circuit the other 3 still work, Howver, starting
is obviously impaired.
The Feed wire to the heaters is heavy, and is sometimes fed via a heavy realay
30 to 40 Amps drawn when heating the cylinders.
Watch out for diesel conversions from Petrol. The Ignition switch is different... heavy contacts on the diesel one!
You need a GOOD Battery.
2.5 Na Diesels have Pre-combustion chambers with "hot Spots" an upturned cup with like little fingers which get red hot and help burn the
fuel. These hot spot cups are often faulty.They are expensive to replace.
Good second hand 2.5 diesel heads are at a premium as they are prone to cracking.
ANY Head problems on a 2.5 Diesel is expensive.. Guess how I know
Sub 20mpg is not good.
There is a fuel spill rail that goes back to the fuel tank, you should have a feed to the lift pump, to the Filter, to the injectors, then back to the
tank.
Water and crap in the fuel tank is also bad news.
I fitted the plastic filter from the Petrol Landy 90. on the dip tube in the tank. its nylon, and easily fitted. dont forget a new rubber gasket and
circular clip on the tank if you do this.
Best thing is a glass bowl sedimentor in the fuel line... then you can see whats happening (Fit under the bonnet or along the Chassis rail in a
protected place)
You Cant remover the Injector pump with out the special tool, or the Cog and belt fall into the timing chest... Unless you are rebuilding ona
bench!!
I would take out the injectors and take them to your local Diesel Demons... and get them tested for pressure, and the spray pattern.
They may just need new tips screwing in.
Also dont forget to replace the copper washers at the bottom of the injector hole.
I put mine on a long screwdriver, then hold the washer, then get the screwdriver in the right place, then slide the washer down the screwriver.
I have a good working pump, and set of recon injectors if you are really stuck.
injector pump repairs are £500 if you want a decent job doing. its a specialist job due to the very high presures involved.
I was quoted £2,200 for a new injector pump from Landrover. Got mine repaired for £850 including parts. NOT cheap.(200Tdi pump for the Turbo
engine)
Also the Mot man should look for the anti tamper seals as well.
when working on the injection system treat it like a Hospital operating theatre...
Keep every bit very very clean.
one small bit of shite in the pump, and it will loose pressure, and everything is very close tolerance due to the pressures involved.
That will give you something to think about for a while.
Paddockspares.com for parts for Landrover... not 100% the best, but excellent value for the money.
Edit:
2.25 diesel has the injector pump sticking up out of a Dizzy type hole halfway along the block.
2.5 (N/A, Turbo, 200 and 300 Tdi) has the injector pump in line with the crankshaft, hanging off the front timing cover.
[Edited on 14/12/2005 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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caber
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 09:36 PM |
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Oli
Depending on the version of the fan you may be able to get the blades off the hub esier than the hub off the engine. IIRR there are 4 M6 bolts holding
the fan on.
To get the hub off you have to get a narrow ish spanner in between the fan and waterpump or in some other way jam the pump without putting too much
pressure on anything thereby knackering it. Once that is jammed you can usually persuade the hub to unscrew from the shaft, persuade may involve
judicious use of 2lb ball pein hammer and chisel! If all else fails take water pump off stick the rotor in the vice and welly the hell out of the hub,
then go and buy a new waterpump as you probably broke the rotor:-(
Don't know about the diesel bleed back problem. have you tried clamping the return pipe and see if it starts?
Are you going to bring it to Edinburgh any time soon as I am happy to take a look
Caber
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wilkingj
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 09:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Usually cause is a leak at the fuel filter --- if you have a liitle rubber priming pump on the top of the filter assembly as on Rover cars and LDV
vans this is the first place to look, they develop a pin hole.
Not a dear part to buy new.
Nope... Priming lever is on the side of the Lift pump on a Land Rover.
Bleed hole on the filter should be on top of the housing. Slack off, prime with lever on the lift pump, tighten bleed point when no bubbles come out
ie clear diesel only.
Std cartridge filter on a landy.
Later housing has bleed on top, and plastic water drain tap on the bottom (round wheel with spout out the bottom 200/300tdi's usually)
If its a viscous Fan:
You need a cranked Fan Spanner.
LASER tools do one... 32 or 34 /36mm I recall... in the back of the fan... and its a LH thread 
If its not viscous, its 4 bolts on the front probably 7/16".
[Edited on 14/12/2005 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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oliwb
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 09:39 PM |
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£800! Paddock are selling new ones for £300....Its the parallel circuit not the series one and all the glow plugs are fine. The swirl chambers and
hot plugs etc have all been changed not long ago and I had the whole head skimmed. I'm wondering if it could be a valve guide/seal or something
as the engine was left sitting in the corner of a shed for 18months. I've got a spare cylinder head from a rover frieght engine in my garage,
would it be worth trying this one on and see if it helps? I'm gonna have the injectors tested and reconditioned etc aswell, but I just wish it
was a bit better and more driveable at the moment, I should be able to do more than 55 when warmed up with an overdrive! Thanks for all your
help...Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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wilkingj
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 09:50 PM |
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Well £300... thats why paddocks are so cheap. I wouldnt buy one!. But thats your choice. My Local injector specialst is the Dogs bits.. but a tad
expensive.
Franchised dealer is £2,000 new, and £700 recon/exchange, if they have any!
Mine is 200Tdi Bosch Turbo pump, and is expensive anyway. Your N/A one will probably be a Lucas/CAv one which is a lot cheaper to sort.
Freight Rover head is Good... should be identical, unless its the peugeot (non Rover!) engine.
I would get a compression check before removing the head... cheaper and less work.
cant use a petrol engined compression gauge... need a diesel one. Cars are 9:1 CR Diesels are 22:1 ish.
good luck.. 60 mph on a 2.5 NAD is fair... mine did about 65.
PS... buy some Ear defenders for those long journeys
edit:
If it was a valve oil seal, you would get a lot of blue smoke that would clear fairly quickly.
[Edited on 14/12/2005 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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IainB
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| posted on 14/12/05 at 10:11 PM |
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Oli, stop messing around with landys trying to sound manly and buy an X1/9!!!! After all, Laura is the one wearing the trousers (read overalls) in
the relationship  leave the landy to her! The bright pink one is still on ebay......she will only be a phone call away when yo break down
http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/IainB1986/
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02GF74
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 09:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by oliwb
Hi, I've gone and bought myself a kenlowe fan for my series 3 land rover...just wanted to know if anyone had any idea how to remove the old
viscous fan?? I've got an incling that you need a special tool..is this correct?? Also anyone tell me if I've done the right thing by
buying one in the first place....(it's a 13" Kenlowe one looks in good nick and I got it for £35 so thought it was worth a go!)
you are better off going to http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showforum=2 or http://www.landrovernet.com/
can't help you with diesels although I know one of the models the viscous fan is held on by a left hand bolt!!!
Regarding fan, you want to the biggest one that will physically fit. I have squeezed a 16 inch in a nice alloy bracket from a merc! in front of my
radiator and a smaller one, 13 inch(?) behind. Both cost £10 from the scrap yard.
<<<<<<<< Look here; notice the vents on the bonnet? There is something a bit bigger than the 2.25 petrol lump hence the twin
fans and vents.
Mondeos are a good source, 16 inch suction type with plastic cowling. In fact I have one that may be for sale once I have determined I cannot use it
in my kit; maybe a few months.....
[Edited on 15/12/05 by 02GF74]
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oliwb
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 10:00 AM |
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Yeh, I've been using the landrover international forum but to be honest when ever I ask a question I never seem to get a definitive answer! Its
starting to get a bit annoying....The problem I'm having is that when you use the priming lever there's maybe 2 good pumps out of it then
no pressure? It's a brand new pump and I've tried rotating the engine to get the thing of the cam lobe and it doesn't make any
difference! I'm gonna take it and have it pressure tested and if that doesn't highlight anything easy I'll recondition this spare
cylinder head I've got and put that one on it....How much would I need to do to it? eg, new valves and guides and seals etc or just take em out
and re-grind them? Anything else I should know before I do all this, or I should deffinately change?? Cheers again guys and sorry for being
off-topic!...Oh and just ignore X19 boy, cos his car has more rust per square foot than the titanic.....Cheers again...Oli.
Ps.
If you do find yourself with an extra fan please let me know....don't think I'll need two but it might be worth it anyway, just put the
biggest one on.....Cheers.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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oliwb
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 10:02 AM |
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Oh forgot to say, here she is....the bain (I mean life-blood) of my existence....Oli.
 
Rescued attachment archieoverbig.jpg
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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oliwb
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 10:02 AM |
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and another...imagine going round the world in this:
 
Rescued attachment archieinteriorbig.jpg
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 10:06 AM |
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Theres an echo in here! or am I seeing double
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ayoungman
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 10:31 AM |
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I got a new body for my Landy.
 
Rescued attachment tub on the roof.jpg
"just like that !"
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02GF74
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 10:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by oliwb
Oh forgot to say, here she is....the bain (I mean life-blood) of my existence....Oli.
hmmmmm, covering the radiator grill with the number plate to prevent air flow isn't going to help keep things cool 
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oliwb
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| posted on 15/12/05 at 11:52 AM |
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I have aloo more trouble keeping the damn thing warm then I do cool! Takes it ages to warm up and even then its still very cold! Oli.
If your not living life on the edge you're taking up too much room!
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Lawnmower
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| posted on 16/12/05 at 06:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by oliwb
I have aloo more trouble keeping the damn thing warm then I do cool! Takes it ages to warm up and even then its still very cold! Oli.
You can get radiotor muffs to keep it warm. aboiut £40 i think.
Landrovernet as suggested above is a very good forum.
btw if its a 2.5 na diesel in a series three, thene i don't believe its original. so has it been installed properly or is their a known
history?
has a 2.25 diesel once, bunged some slick 50 in the fuel, appeared to clean it slightly....
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clbarclay
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| posted on 16/12/05 at 06:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by oliwb
I have aloo more trouble keeping the damn thing warm then I do cool! Takes it ages to warm up and even then its still very cold! Oli.
At least one of the seires landrobers we had the rad was permanently (sertainly all winter mounths) half blocked off with an old feed bag.
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ayoungman
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| posted on 4/1/06 at 12:16 PM |
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Its never given me any problems. The aerodynamics are a little messed up on the front end though. I can't top 150 any more
"just like that !"
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