Steelman
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 posted on 31/3/09 at 12:52 PM |
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Use of Synthetic Olis in gearbox \ diff
Is it better to use the gearbox \ diff manufacturers recommended oil or upgrade to a fully synthetic oil when changing the oil.
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thunderace
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 01:10 PM |
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no
i put semi in my motorbike and nearly distroyed the engine.
be very cairfull with synthetic oil its not for most bike cars ect.
i use zx1 now and std oil..
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02GF74
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 01:26 PM |
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beware, just becuase it is fully synthetic doesn't automatically mean it is good.
there are stories of using these type of oils in land rover gearboxes that then damaged them due to not being compatible with the bronze bushes or
something like that; I didn't take notice as I use the standard oils in my 'boxes/engines/diffs (apart from part-synth in the volvo
engine).
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Richard Jenkins
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 01:35 PM |
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I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oils for x-flow engine, escort sport gearbox and english diff - no problems and would fully recommend it
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 01:55 PM |
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Use the manuf recommended oil for transmissions. The syncronizers (or wet clutches) are designed to work with a specific fluid. They can slip too
much/little with the wrong fluid.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 02:24 PM |
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Use the manuf recommended oil for transmissions. The syncronizers (or wet clutches) are designed to work with a specific fluid. They can slip too
much/little with the wrong fluid.
so a well respected race team found out after a season of destroying gearboxes,twas me that spotted the mistake,the resident gearbox expert wasnt
impressed
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 02:47 PM |
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Do not use synthetic with new parts, especially differentials, run 500 miles then you can switch.
Synthetic is too slippery and parts will not wear in.
I used nothing but multi viscosity synthetics in my Datsun racecar in the 70's, no problems with engine, trans, or diff, and some of that was
experimental from Valvoline (sponsor).
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 03:07 PM |
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If it's a bronze baulk-ring synchro type thing, don't use modern synthetic GL5 with friction modifiers. Some of the EP additives
(organosulphates/phosphates)in gear oil will also eat the bronze away.
If it's a plate-type diff, or somesuch, again, don't use oils with friction modifiers (unless you want slip).
If it's a good old fashioned dog box, use just about EP GL4/5 anything. Moly-disulphide additives can even be used here, there's nothing
to rot in a dog box.
Manufacturers recommendations at all times, period.
Any tinkering, just use common sense... I run a superlight (very) multigrade fully synthetic in the ATB diff of my hairdrier powered competition car.
Not what I'd use in a car engined 7 on the road. I use a dirty great EP90 GL5, stinking of sulphur, in the diff of the Landrover 109 towing
heap.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 04:53 PM |
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Two issues
(1) As already mention with geaboxes avoid GL5 oils they have too much EP additive. GL4 or what ever the manufacturer recommended for gearbox --
Note some manufacturers recommend engine oil (Chrysler UK) or auto box fluid (ZF boxes) or special tranmission fluid (eg Rover & LandRover)
(2) Classic era oils seals can have problems with fully synthetic oils ---- if in doubt always use either a mineral oil or a semi-synthetic.
To sum up
Older car models sometimes don't like fully synthetic oils -- as it can cause oil leaks due the oil seals shrinking and hardening But
semi-sythetics are generally OK because the mineral oil content is enough to stop the oil seals going hard.
Don't use GL5 gear oils in gearboxes -- use GL4 unless something else is specified.
Use GL5 oils in hypoid axles
If your car has a friction LSD (nb not the Sierra Viscous type) then use an oil with friction "LS" additive.
Multi grade grear oils are generally a good idea especially in gearboxes.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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blakep82
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 06:20 PM |
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if you use the recommended oils, you minimise the risk of nasty surprises
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 07:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by thunderace
no
i put semi in my motorbike and nearly distroyed the engine.
be very cairfull with synthetic oil its not for most bike cars ect.
i use zx1 now and std oil..
Actually the reverse the - using anything but fully synthetic in a recent car engine will turn the insides into a gummy tarball. You should pay
attention to what your manufacturer recommends, engine manufactures specify the type specification and grade of oil for a reason.
Quite a few major car manufacturers have changed the spec of the oil they use in their car engines to fully synthetic but the dealers continued to
use either semi-synthetic or mineral oil at services, Vauxhall, SAAB and Toyota have all run into trouble because of this.
I recently looked at a 55 plate Corsa which had been dealer serviced since new at 54,000 miles the engine internals were a nasty black mess, the
hydraulic tappets were gummed up and the cam cover was full of hard tarry black sludge.
The reason was in 2003 and Vauxhall change their service schedule to longer intervals and changed the oil specification to 5w/30 fully synthetic
but many of the dealers continued to fill the sumps with much cheaper (to them) "fleet grade" 10w/40 mineral or semi-synthetic oil.
On the Corsa as on a lot of recent FWD cars the exhaust outlet from the first catalytic converter run very close to the bottom of the sump -- this is
the hottest part of the exhaust even hotter than the outlet from cylinder head ports. As a result in the small area of the sump adjacent to the
exhaust the oil gets well and truly toasted and any mineral oil exposed to such heat will start to break down. As car are now expected to do
15,000 to 20,000 mile between oil changes using mineral oils in these engine will destroy them.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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