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Author: Subject: Craig's 442E BMW powered build
craigdiver

posted on 20/9/18 at 02:04 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Angel, purely cosmetic

quote:
Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Started on getting N/S engine panel bolted on. Fabricated side grilles from stainless mesh and hot...




At some point in time my engine bay sides will have the same arrangements, but I haven´t thought about grilles there.
What is the reasoning to install them?
Thanks.
AA






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craigdiver

posted on 4/10/18 at 07:40 PM Reply With Quote
little more progress

Got a little bit more done this evening, got clips silkaflexed onto inside of rear tub to support rear wiring harness and fabricated grille for O/S front panel.











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craigdiver

posted on 6/10/18 at 01:00 PM Reply With Quote
working towards getting 4rse end finished

That is the rear loom fabricated, tested and installed. I have had to add a secondary fog light as the fog lights in my combined units are too close to the brake lights. For show use only, the fog light unbolts easily and a link put in the connector and the fog lights work in the combined units. All lighting circuits have been taken back to the dash as I intend to control lights through a microprocessor so that I can have some fancy effects / strobing rear lights (again for show use only!). I’ll probably add in an accelerometer so that the hazards / brake lights flash quickly if I brake realy hard.



















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craigdiver

posted on 6/10/18 at 01:40 PM Reply With Quote
heatshield

I wasn’t too happy with the proximity of the exhaust to the clutch master cylinder so I adapted a heat shield that I found in a layby a few months ago (funny how you spot something and just know that will come in useful!). Fitted and happy now.











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craigdiver

posted on 7/10/18 at 11:57 AM Reply With Quote
busy-bee!

A productive Sunday morning. Section 1 of 3 of rear tub hard cover painted and had trim glued on, fitted to car and pleased with the look. The main event this morning was machine polishing/buffing my freshly fabricated stainless steel exhaust. Used soapy water as lubricant and sanded with 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500 and finally 3000 grit. After a clean up with fresh water a whole tube of Autosol was buffed into it with a lambswool pad on the machine polisher. Not quite mirror finish but looks good. Actually pleased with the finish, highly polished mirror finish would be a bit too ‘classic’ for me. I already had a piece of aluminium cut and folded for the transmission tunnel cover. I made up a template for the handbrake hole and cut out with grinder and dressing edges with file. The hole for gearstick was cut with a holesaw. Think ill cover it with some padded black vinyl. Since everything going well I decided to have a go fitting the half-round aluminium profile to the passenger side cockpit edge. Didn’t have a countersink bit so my countersunk hex machine screws are sitting proud but will pick up bit and countersink holes.

















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craigdiver

posted on 15/10/18 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
progress

Had a day off work today so got a few jobs done. Firstly dismantled brake pedal / bias bar assembly and fitted locking kits. Reassembled and added the obligatory ‘do not adjust blah blah’ sticker. This allowed me to fit side panels and the exhaust. Oh what fun connecting the exhaust to the downpipes, few war wounds later the exhaust is on. Next I got it off the axle stands and couldn’t help myself taking it for a spin round the yard (I can just feel it wants to go faster!). Next job was to fit the half-round aluminium trim on the drivers side cockpit edge. Finished off wiring brake light switch and reservoir level switch into loom and fabricated a couple of brackets to secure.

I’m acquiring some thin stainless sheet later this week that I intend to fabricate into a bonnet. Not decided whether to paint white or wrap with carbon fibre effect wrap.

Issues I had today is that the rear lights are only 335mm off the ground and need to be 350mm for IVA. Fortunately i’ve not set my rear coil-overs yet and should be able to raise car up 20mm (are lights measured with anyone sitting in the car?).

Also, will I need to cover the harness to eye connections?























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SJ

posted on 15/10/18 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
Looks great - have to say your wiring is super neat and the engine bay looks amazingly uncluttered.
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craigdiver

posted on 15/10/18 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
Looks great - have to say your wiring is super neat and the engine bay looks amazingly uncluttered.


thank you, its a mix of OCD and being an electrical engineer!





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craigdiver

posted on 16/10/18 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
rear end complete

Did the last couple of jobs to complete rear end. Rear tub covers complete with trim. Also, rear fog light replaced with one with both ‘E’ and ‘F’ markings.









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craigdiver

posted on 21/10/18 at 02:09 PM Reply With Quote
A bit of electrical work today. Been working on a design for indicators & hazzard warning lights and set up on bench to test. Two live feeds, one switched from ignition, one permanent (for hazzards). 3 diodes, one electronic flasher relay and one DPST dashboard switch for hazzards. Also started on the electronics for microprocessor control of rear lights for special effects. I have also included an accelerometer to measure emergency braking which will flash hazzards quickly. The microprocessor will also control fog light function which will make the logic simple with any changes being a simple change to a few lines of code.











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craigdiver

posted on 21/10/18 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
As a side note; I do not recommend complete microprocessor control of rear lights without some robust purpose built automotive system. I will be achieving fail-safe integrity by controling the lighting circuits through banks of n/c relay contacts. When the microprocessor wants to take control of the lights it will switch the relays and use high speed mosfet switching to perform the desired effects.





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craigdiver

posted on 25/10/18 at 01:54 PM Reply With Quote
About to start on the bonnet. Going to make 2 supports same shape as nose cone and scuttle from 4mm aluminium. I’ll join these using 4mm aluminium flat bar. This should give me a frame that I can use rollers to roll the bonnet to shape over the frame then weld* onto the frame (*have welded by a welder - wouldn’t attempt to weld aluminium myself)







If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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craigdiver

posted on 25/10/18 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
Bonnet support ribs fabricated for scuttle and nose cone. Surprisingly easy to cut 4mm aluminium with jigsaw.









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craigdiver

posted on 27/10/18 at 04:51 PM Reply With Quote
My son Matthew who is learning to drive couldn’t resist having a drive round the yard.







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Angel Acevedo

posted on 27/10/18 at 06:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
My son Matthew who is learning to drive couldn’t resist having a drive round the yard.




From this picture I think you´ll have problems to comply with Harness anchor points requirements.
Or do you have a plan already?





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craigdiver

posted on 27/10/18 at 06:58 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
My son Matthew who is learning to drive couldn’t resist having a drive round the yard.


From this picture I think you´ll have problems to comply with Harness anchor points requirements.
Or do you have a plan already?






[Edited on 28/10/18 by craigdiver]





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Angel Acevedo

posted on 27/10/18 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
I´ve done some search and now I think that what I wrote it´s just hearsay.
Some manufacturers state Mininmum amd maximum "recommended" angles, but even then the angles beyond that are not listed as non acceptable.
Regards.
AA





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craigdiver

posted on 27/10/18 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Angel Acevedo
I´ve done some search and now I think that what I wrote it´s just hearsay.
Some manufacturers state Mininmum amd maximum "recommended" angles, but even then the angles beyond that are not listed as non acceptable.
Regards.
AA


thanks Angel, I appreciate your advice





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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
Angel, you were right, my upper anchorages are only 400mm above the reference point (as per IVA manual), needs to be at least 450mm. Will need to rework the roll hoop and pay to have powder coated again :-(





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Angel Acevedo

posted on 28/10/18 at 02:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Angel, you were right, my upper anchorages are only 400mm above the reference point (as per IVA manual), needs to be at least 450mm. Will need to rework the roll hoop and pay to have powder coated again :-(


Sad, but I think that´ll be cheaper than a re-test anyway isn´t it?





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craigdiver

posted on 29/10/18 at 05:32 PM Reply With Quote
lesson to be learned

I am guilty of not reading then re-reading the IVA manual and understanding it very well. I made the mistake where I never realises there are two sections relating to seatbelts and their anchorages. Fortunately, my mistake had a relatively straight forward fix. I had never planned my build so I could measure a reference minimum dimensions between seat base and upper anchorages. To rectify this I am removing the very thick seat squab and replacing it with something much thinner. This has an added bonus in making the seat back taller which may have been an issue.











If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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craigdiver

posted on 24/11/18 at 10:45 AM Reply With Quote
Water drained and filled with coolant

When I originally assembled the coolant system I wasn’t entirely confident it wouldn’t leak so only filled it with water. Suffice to say - it never leaked! It was playing on my mind that it was getting cooler up here so decided was time to drain the water and fill with some decent quality (BMW approved) anti-freeze and summer coolant. Was happy to see the drained water completely clear and not a rusty colour (don’t know why as it is an alloy block, I just like worrying about things!). Now filled and engine run up to temperature :-)







If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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craigdiver

posted on 5/3/19 at 06:33 PM Reply With Quote
i’m still here!

Hi all, been busy over winter with my other hobbies, foreign travel and small Fiats, but now ready to get stuck back in about the car and get it ready for its IVA as the weather is warming up. Took it out for a blast round the yard at the weekend - still fun and very tail happy! Just ordered wing and rear view mirrors along with micro indicator repeaters for the front cycle wings.

First job is to get wiring finished off. Still no easy solution for a bonnet but have some aluminium I can form and see how it looks / fits.

I’ll update with pics soon.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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craigdiver

posted on 9/3/19 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
great progress!

long shift on the car today. Job today was to connect up all the wiring looms for lighting, dashboard switched, fuse and relay box. Everything went very well (surprised my indicators / hazzard lights circuit worked). Last job was to hook up the neg. switched reverse gearbox switch to a relay to switch reverse lights. Due to quality chinese moulded relay box, the very last terminal refusing to go into its terminal position - getting frustrated at it so will tool down and attack it another day. Once wiring loomed ill take some pics.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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craigdiver

posted on 5/4/19 at 10:45 AM Reply With Quote
Front wheel arches???

Been putting this job off as not sure how to form the supports accurately or what clearances I should use. Any advice very welcome. (Will be painted black to match rear arches - white / black / orange colour scheme probably bit too much!)



[Edited on 5/4/19 by craigdiver]





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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