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Author: Subject: Haynes Roadster Turbo MX5 engine project
big_wasa

posted on 28/7/18 at 01:31 PM Reply With Quote
Hmm thatís a lot more cash.
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Charlie C

posted on 28/7/18 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
Working on fitting the radiator and intercooler there is minimal over lap about 15mm altogether.
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Charlie C

posted on 13/8/18 at 09:28 AM Reply With Quote
Starting to put new bits on the car, the body work should be with me by the me by the end of August.

I didnít have a lot of time this weekend but a managed to fit the new injectors to the inlet manifold, Iíve been recommended Injector Dynamics ID1050X I believe these are Bosch injectors or associated with Bosch. The only problem Iíve found so far is the sockets are at the bottom of the injector instead of the top its an easy fix Iíve rotated the injector around so the socket is pointing to the side.



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Charlie C

posted on 20/8/18 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
I fitted the throttle body and manifold this weekend.
Iíve blanked off the ERG and ICV firstly because these are areas where boost leak occurs and secondly because Iím not running aircon or power steering I wont have a huge change in engine load at idle and I can control it with the air bleed screw or the throttle stop adjuster.
The blanking plate came from https://davefab.com/.




I also bought the COPs from https://www.skuzzle.com/ I was a little disappointed to find that the COP arenít denso parts for some reason I got it into my head that they should have been for the price, to be fair it doesnít say on the advert that they are denso. Also the COPs donít fit out of the box they need two plastic rings removing off the shaft.

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Charlie C

posted on 10/9/18 at 08:08 AM Reply With Quote
Iíve been making steady progress Iíve had a few problems fitting the exhaust manifold because of holding down nut clearance issues the solution was to use K-nuts (https://k-nuts.com/) which have a smaller outer diameter.

I also used some Inconel turbo studs which arenít cheap and one of the studs a had a poorly cut thread. The Inconel studs shouldnít expand like normal steel studs with the aim of preventing the turbo coming loose, Iíve combined these with locking tabs and copper plated nuts.

Now the turbo is nearly bolted on Iíve started to plane the water connection to the turbo, the heater matrix inlet and outlet are conveniently placed these are 14-15mm diameter. The Garrett turbo water in/outlets are M14x1.5 threads Iíve ordered some barbed banjo unions to allow the water hoses to exit the turbo at 90į, the Garrett website indicates that the water in/outlets should be tilted at 15į from horizontal with a cold side feed lower so when the engine is off and hot the turbo will create a hot water syphon.

The big job has been fitting the new body work, I ordered new body work from Equinox and they have been great the quality is good, and I canít fault their service. My old side panels were cut of behind the front wishbones and cut in two where the old roll cage fitted on the outside of the chassis, this had the added benefit of making the front section removable, so I could easily access the oil filter and master cylinder etc. My new side panels are in one piece and cut around the front suspension its already looking a lot neater, to gain access to the oil filter starter etc Iíve created a service hatch in the side and disguised it as and cooling vent. The vent is aluminium and was made by Bathocars http://bathoscars.simpl.com/shop.html the workmanship is great and its very light. Iíve also included a vent on the exhaust side which allows me to cut out a large whole for the exhaust and I can trim the aluminium vent around the exhaust which wonít be effected by the heat as much as the fibre glass.

The bonnet and nose I joined into one piece because the header tank is now under the nose and I wanted easy access without have to unbolt the nose every time I wanted to check the water level, also the intercooler pipes will make fixing the nose difficult as there is no space to get my hands in side the nose at the edges.

The rear tub is on and bolted in next the rear arches can be fitted and the lights and electric can start. Iíve decided to ditch the mx5 switchgear mainly because the bulky steering column cowl doesnít look right. Iíve bought a universal switch gear from car builder solutions which I think is base on a landrover design which does dip main and indicators, the head light on side and on main is controlled by a switch which surprisingly was cheapest from Caterham cars.


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Charlie C

posted on 5/10/18 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
The dash is rewired in and working, thank goodness I kept the loom colour coding details from when I bought the loom 5-6years ago. Iíve got rid of the MX5 stalks so I donít need the column cowl which was bulky and took up space on the dashboard where my digi dash should go.

Iíve also change my random selection of switches to rocket switches, strangely enough I found Caterham car had the best stock and prices, I find for what I want much of the electrical and lighting pieces on the Caterham website well priced and in stock. I change the harzard switch which was a round multi pin style and worked off one relay to a 6 pin rocker, I found I had to add a relay to the ignition off circuit.

I used generic indicator, lights and horn stalk from CBS, the stalk attachment was a lot bigger than the steering column so I made a spacer out of nylon bar, I drilled the centre to the same diameter as the column and then cut the tube in half long ways to form two U section. It worked quite well and look a lot neater than the MX5 set up.
Most of the body work is now on, the seats are nearly fitted but Iíve lost some of the collars used to bolt the harnesses in I found some replacement but they were hard to find.



It took a while but the last set on Inconel studs for the turbo arrived all the way from oz, I also found some locking tabs on ebay they look like they are for a motorbike rear sprocket, hopefully theyíll keep the nuts in position.




My Haynes roadster had really poor castor and felt twitchy at speed, Matt at procomp recommended I increased the carter angle by moving the hub top pivot point back in relation to the bottom pivot point. Before Talon called it a day he made me a set of front upper wish bones which used rose joints instead of polly bushes they are the same layout as the MK U shape wishbone, as the rose joint are narrower than the polly bushes the wish bone could be slid back at the chassis bracket and shimmed accordingly. Personally, I wasnít happy about using the rose joint in the vertical orientation many smarter people than me have warned against this because the load is at 90į from where it should be. Also the cost of good rose joint was £65+vat each, Iím not racing the car I use it un bumpy public B roads so for me rose joint donít feel like the right option.

I had what I think was a good idea the rose joint wishbones could be modified to use bushes with the bushes welded off centre on the bush tubes to provide better castor. I couldnít do this with the standard wishbone because they could fowl the shock springs. The bush tubes were made 5mm shorter than the standard tube to allow for shimming to balance the castor O/S and N/S. the new wish bone are about 8mm shorter than my old ones this is a good thing because the camber was limited by the old wish bone being too long.







[Edited on 5/10/18 by Charlie C]

[Edited on 5/10/18 by Charlie C]

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Charlie C

posted on 24/10/18 at 08:30 AM Reply With Quote
The front suspension is on, loads more negative camber can be achieved now before hardly any could be set.




Iíve also moved the front indicators to be on the head light bracket, the bracket is from Caterham just manipulated in to the right shape.




The rear end is coming along nicely, fuel filler is now on the top instead of the side, on the side it was a right pain to fill.


Iíve also been working on the intercooler pipes trying to minimise the bends and fit everything in like the air filter and water pipes. One little problem is the angle of the throttle body, it points down a bit which means a cant but a solid pipe against it from the intercooler and Iíll need a hose with some fixability in it, Iím thinking of using a 300mm length of silicon hose which should be able to achieve the bend over its unsupported length approximately 200mm.

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CosKev3

posted on 24/10/18 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
Do you need the TB to be on a angle for clearance or anything?

If not I would get the inlet manifold modified to get the TB level rather than use a piece of silicone

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Charlie C

posted on 25/10/18 at 09:43 AM Reply With Quote
Your right a silicon pipe isnt the best solution, modifying the manifold will be quite a task I think cutting and shutting an ali pipe that runs from the intercooler to the TB into the correct entry angle might be the simplest solution.
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Charlie C

posted on 5/11/18 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
Back on to the engine electrics, I thought I would post some information which might come in handy for some one.
Wiring the CAS to a mega squirt MS3 with MS3X card, with the plug lay flat and the clip facing you from left to right the MX5 wire colours are:
1. Black/green
2. White/red
3. White
4. Yellow/blue

There function is
1. Black/green = to ECU earth
2. White/red = 12v supply
3. White = crank position
4. Yellow/blue = cam position

MS3/MS3X connection
1. ECU earth = MS3 screened black (pin7)
2. 12v supply = switch fused live from same origin as megasquirt supply
3. Crank position = MS3 screened clear (pin24)
4. Cam position = MS3X white (pin32)

Iíve used a TPS from an automatic 1.6 mx5 (four pin) as it a variable TPS unlike the manual TPS (three pin) which is on off. The pins from top down with the TPS mounted on the manifold are as follows.

1. TPS 5v = MS3 grey (pin 26)
2. TPS signal = MS3 dark blue (pin 22)
3. Idle control switch = not required
4. Ground = MS3 sensor ground brown (pin 1 and 2)

Megasquirt MS3 and MS3X

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Charlie C

posted on 8/11/18 at 02:29 PM Reply With Quote
For the COP i've been told that a capacitor isnít strictly required but it is recommended, after a bit of searching and emailing people in the know (thanks Dale at Bailey Performance) I have ordered of these Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitors - Screw Terminal 25volts 10000uF Screw Terminal . It also has a maximum running temp of 125įC which will help as its going to be close to the COPís, most I looked at have a maximum running temp of 85įC.

From what I understand the capacitor need to be installed between the 12v and Ground, see write up here
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8 /upgrading-coil-plugs-all-years-cop-writeup-12704/

[Edited on 8/11/18 by Charlie C]Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitors - Screw Terminal 25volts 10000uF Screw Terminal

[Edited on 8/11/18 by Charlie C]

[Edited on 8/11/18 by Charlie C]

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Gord

posted on 2/12/18 at 08:13 PM Reply With Quote
How are you getting on with fitting your radiator/intercooler?
Im on with fitting mine which are seperate items.

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big_wasa

posted on 2/12/18 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
This is my next big ticket item. Some pictures of the rad/intercooler fitted would be great
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Charlie C

posted on 3/12/18 at 09:04 AM Reply With Quote
The radiator and intercooler are on I'll take some photos later and put them up here

The intercooler pipes were a tight fit with the top of the nose, but this was due to not being able to sit the whole lot back further the reason i couldn't move it back was the fan was hiting some addaitional cross members i've installed in the front box area, without these it would fit nicely.

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big_wasa

posted on 3/12/18 at 07:16 PM Reply With Quote
Funny you should say about that, I was thinking about adding some triangulation while there is acces. I think I need all the big ticket items in place before I think about stuff like that.

Cheers

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Charlie C

posted on 2/1/19 at 02:59 PM Reply With Quote
I had a lot of time off in December (leave to use up before the end of the year) so the car is nearly back together and hopefully I can get it on the rolling road next month.

The most complex part about the turbo install has been working out the routes for the pipe work.
For the water I took supply from the heater supply at the back of the engine, Iíve use the IL motorsport coolant reroute kit which diverts the coolant around the inlet manifold side of the engine and has an 16mm outlet for the heater, as there is no heater this was good for the turbo. The water re-enters the cooling system just before the water pump, I rotated the water pump inlet by 90į so the radiator pipe is now forward of the engine instead of backward of the engine originally voiding the PS pump. What was the 8mm take off from the thermostat has been drilled out and a 10mm aluminium pipe welded in which is now the supply from the form out let.
The Turbo water inlets are 10mm so I have used a reducer from the heater outlet to a 10mm aluminium pipe which runs around the turbo down pipe. The turbo inlets area about 150mm long and straight but a needed the inlet to have a 90į toward the rear of the car, I could find one with a bend in the direction a wanted so I used a pipe bender which worked a treat.
The oil lines were easier the mx5 1.6 early engines has a oil outlet at the back of the exhaust side of the block, I used a SS braided line to the turbo. The oil return was straight forward when I had the engine rebuilt a male hose fitting installed on the sump.
Where pipes/hoses are close to the turbo I added Aeroquip fire sleeve over the top just in case it gets hot.
The vacuum pipes for the boost controller took some trail and error in the end I used 6mm aluminium pipe with fuel hose links




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big_wasa

posted on 2/1/19 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
I ordered my coolex package over the weekend.
Itís amazing how quick the engine bay fills up.

Cheers

[Edited on 3/1/19 by big_wasa]

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Charlie C

posted on 3/1/19 at 12:36 PM Reply With Quote
A few more images
This is the route of the boost control vacuum and the turbo water supply


Here you can see the air filter box attached directly to the turbo and a 90į bend silicon hose from the air box to a vent in the bonnet.


Below is the water pump inlet housing rotated 90į with a 10mm pipe welded on for the turbo water outlet.


I had the exhaust welded its 3inch from the turbo, Iíve included a flexi section to take the stress off the down pipe, also the silencer is mounted by four anti vibration mounts.


A few more wires to tidy up and a steering wheel quick release boss to add.



The body work has been cleaned and is looking good, next job is to add the bonnet clips


The dump valve is on the cold side on the intercooler because itís the first practical place to install a T peace hose and it keeps the vacuum hose length short.


Bonnet vent above the turbo, this is more for when the car is stationary and it will let the hot air rise from the turbo and out instead of pooling under the bonnet.


Three air vents in the bonnet, the one on the side is for the air feed to the air box, the one at the back is to help air flow out of the engine bay.


The back is finished apart from fitting the number plate, the third brake light is from Caterham cars.


[Edited on 3/1/19 by Charlie C]

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Charlie C

posted on 7/1/19 at 11:18 AM Reply With Quote
At the weekend I started to do a final test the electrics and i noticed when the fuel pump came on there was a leak on one of the injectors, when i took the injector out i noticed the top o ring was flat on one side. Whilst I had the injector out (new set of injector dynamics injectors) I checked the length from the top o ring to the bottom edge of the lower seal and it was 1.5mm less than a set of reconditioned mx5 injectors I have spare, the lower seal on the recon injector was 1.5mm thinker, I double check the seal sizes and injector length against an old set of MX5 injector and it looks the Injector Dynamics seals are thinner. Iím probably being over careful but leaking fuel is never a good idea, Iíve used the thicker lower seals from the recon injector and the o ring (same size), so far I cant find any leaks so hopeful problem solved.
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big_wasa

posted on 8/1/19 at 06:21 PM Reply With Quote
The fibreglass looks really nice quality

Can I ask if you have mounted the rad package solidly or rubber mounted ? Cheers

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Charlie C

posted on 8/1/19 at 06:28 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

I've used solid mounts my suspension is not harsh and the engine is on rubber mounts so i figured rubber mounts are not necessary.

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big_wasa

posted on 8/1/19 at 07:43 PM Reply With Quote
Ok thanks.
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tom225

posted on 15/1/19 at 09:33 PM Reply With Quote
What else can i say, absolutely epic work!!!
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Charlie C

posted on 16/1/19 at 09:47 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks!

I've got the car booked in with Bailey Performance on Febuary the 15th to have the ecu mapped so if everything goes ok it will be back on the road this spring.

I need to try and book the car in with Procomp to have the front alignment set up and some heavier spring on the back, when the car was on the road the rear would bottom out on sudden dips in the road.

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Rhys1985

posted on 22/1/19 at 12:06 PM Reply With Quote
cracking build
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