How have you done it?
Like this
Cheers
Fred W B
Push-pull cables using a modified Honda shifter assembly.
What kind of engine/tranny is this for?
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
What kind of engine/tranny is this for?
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
Push-pull cables using a modified Honda shifter assembly.
Only this one:
http://www.kimini.com/Diaries/Pre2003/shiftdone.jpg
It's a very modified Honda shifter and there are two push-pull cables. One cable selects row, and the other chooses column. The two cables go
back, under the engine, curve upward and over to the transmission.
It was a fun puzzle, making sure when the shifter was done that first gear was still "up and to the right."
Tricky. I think I'll have to go around the engine instead.
As long as you give the cables large bend radiuss it's be fine.
I worked out the shift mechanism on paper before building it. Oh and also have on hand the motion required for the various gears at the transmission
end.
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
As long as you give the cables large bend radiuss it's be fine.
I'd prefer rods but in my application I was using a FWD lump in the back, the original shift locations are behind the engine and
"pointing" to the left, so there was no straight shot.
OTOH if I had used an in-line 4-cylinder and VW transaxle, a rod shifter would work perfectly.
I used a combination of rods & cables in my middy. The 8mm rods went from the Sierra gear stick and connected to the Sierra cables via a bell
crank assembly (at the end of the tunnel) to reverse the movements. The cables then swoop under the transaxle and onto the standard link
connectors.
The end result is a very quick action with much less slack than using cables all the way.
[Edited on 13-5-06 by RazMan]
Except now there are six points for additional play in the system: the pivots on the ends of the cable attached to the bellcranks, the bell-crank
pivots, and the pivots on the end of the rods. It's also more parts, heavier, and probably more expensive.
That said, I agree rods are better; it's getting them around corners without adding play that's the trick.
Actually I found there was less play in the rod & cable setup. My first try was using cable to cable (still on the bell crank though) and the action was really sloppy, possibly due to cable stretch over the 2.5 metre run. The rods took out the sloppiness and I'm really impressed with the resulting action. Using rose joints on the bell crank helped too.