Board logo

Fitting sump gasket to a crossflow
Westy1994 - 21/5/12 at 08:59 PM

Having got my sump back after some mods, which way around is the correct method when it comes to fitting a new gasket set ( comes in 4 parts) to a 1600 crossflow?.

Do you - A) fit the gaskets to the sump , then offer the unit up
or
B) fit the gaskets to the block surface and then fit the sump onto that?

Engine is still in the car, so work is done from underneath, I appreciate that doing this job would be better with the engine on the stand, but that's really not an option at the moment.

Cheers

Rich.


DavidM - 21/5/12 at 09:20 PM

Fit the gaskets to the block first and then fit the sump. The cuved seals fit in grooves in the block and have tabs that locate in the cork gaskets. Use grease to stick them in place on the block, or use some gasket sealant.

David


Westy1994 - 21/5/12 at 09:28 PM

Thanks for that, nice to get some first hand advice. I will be getting the ' Burtons' comp gasket I think, folks seem to report these are far better than the modern cork ones, guessing this is due to the cork being far softer than ford had in mind when they used them.

Rich


gdische - 22/5/12 at 10:02 AM

I'm about to fit a shallower sump too, also from underneath. Do you have the plate between the engine and gearbox housing split?

Geoff


Westy1994 - 22/5/12 at 10:26 AM

In my case, yes I had to as I use the type 9 gearbox, the most rearward two bolts on the crossflow sump actually end up ' inside' the bellhousing, just loosen off everything and prise the two apart, I had to jack the engine also for the front engine mounts to be released from the car and enable the engine to be moved forward a bit ( as the gearbox would not move backwards)

Its a bit of a pain to do just to remove the sump, but it's the only way really.

Rich.


gdische - 23/5/12 at 01:25 PM

Thanks for that Rich.

I've not really looked at this closely yet. Would it be possible to split the plate in situ with my trusty Dremmel?

Geoff


Westy1994 - 23/5/12 at 03:17 PM

Ah I see, I misread your original post, as I thought you meant split as in separated from the gearbox / rear engine face. You mean split as in the sandwich plate being split in two parts with the lower section being removable ?.

Not sure that attacking it with a dremil in situ is entirely possible, but I am happy to stand corrected. Best remove the entire thing and get it on a bench.

Mine was already spilt anyway, so saved me that job, but still have to loosen the gearbox to engine to get those two hidden bolts.

Rich