DIY Si
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posted on 5/4/10 at 01:48 PM |
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Indy Bird clutch system
Afternoon all.
I'm trying to sort out a new set up for my clutch, but I am having trouble deciding what will work best. I currently have a 5/8" master
feeding the standard Honda slave. This works OK, but gives a very short hard pedal. And since I haven't gotten around to fitting a pedal stop
yet, this set up can, and has, blow the seals out of the slave.
Since I could do with a new slave and I wish to change the master cylinder too, is it worth going for something like the Westfield kit and just be
done with it? I know it's not cheap, but it will give me a full kit of parts.
The other option is to get a matching master and slave then make new mounts for the slave to allow what ever it is to fit, as the current one uses a
modified Honda casing as it's mount. The clutch rod only needs to move a few mm to work the clutch, and going this route would allow me to pick
a widely available, cheap set of cylinders.
What ever set up I use must be reliable and not able to blow seals. I know it's my fault for not fitting a pedal stop, but it does stop the mrs
driving the car, or being willing to go out in it.
Any help would be much appreciated.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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DIY Si
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posted on 14/4/10 at 05:14 PM |
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Any one?
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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Mike S
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posted on 15/4/10 at 09:27 AM |
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Hi Si
I have a Blackbird engine in my car.
I have used the Westfield kit. The gantry arrangement on the master cylinder end is an excellent bit of kit.
It uses a bike rear brake master cylinder which is only about 0.5in bore, and uses the standard slave cylinder with no problems.
I also made a clutch pedal that has different points for the actuator arm attachement so different pedal ratios can be used. Although I used the
middle one when I assembled it and it has been fine.
I did not use the stand-offs supplied by Westfield for the slave cylinder as my engine is the right way round and is chain drive so no need to space
it off to clear a prop adapter.
You are welcome to have the stand off bits if you want them.
I think there are some pic in my photo archive of the master cylinder arrangement.
Cheers
Mike
There are more horses' asses in this world than there are horses
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probablyleon
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posted on 21/4/10 at 02:06 PM |
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I'm using an R1 rear brake master cylinder (Brembo) and the standard Blackbird slave. I also fitted some heavy springs to the pedal to provide
some resistance. It's far from perfect but is tolerable. I'm having the engine mapped this week and am planning to have the idle speed set
at around 2000 rpm, I've a feeling that might help a bit with the more sedate pulling away maneuvers (junctions etc). Stalling one of these
things at a junction, after all the noise and drama of pulling up to it in a BEC is one of the worst bits for me
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