Hi all, I'm Daniel from Newport S.Wales. I'm not totally new to the BEC scene as I built a Tiger B6 10 years ago with an R1 motor so I still remember a lot.
I'm getting my hands on a Lupo GTI shell & I'm gonna strip it bare with polycarb windows etc & fit either R1,GSXR1000, ZX12 or Busa motor but I'm not 100% sure on drive-train setup recommendations so any help will be gratefully appreciated. When I built the Tiger obviously the whole suspension/axle setup was basically all pre-made & bolt on.
1:Which would be best, front or mid/rear engine?

2:If I go for the front engine then I would probably go for sierra diff with custom made prop & shafts but what would be my best option for a rear beam/hub setup which would be a good fit for a Lupo?

3:If i mount in the rear with a chain driven diff would it be easy enough to make a diff by replacing crown wheel with a cog & fabricate my own suspension/hub assembly?

Sorry if this sounds a bit vague but new to modifying an existing shell to fit bike motor.

Thanks in advance.

Daniel

Interesting project.

Rear track on the Sierra looks like about 3" wider than the lupo according to carfolio http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/ so will need editing or wider arches, mx5 is another option which is only an inch wider but gear ratios are not good for bike engines (typically around 4.1:1). Mid transverse with a chain drive is the usual option with lower wishbones. There is a company in wales (west wales trikes?) that do a number of diff arrangements including ones with reverse, obviously much greater control over ratios and they can also build in a mx5 Torsen diff. Will need a frame and the floor chopping/strengthening though.

Edit, another option is the e36 BMW rear end, trailing arm like the Sierra but diff ratios are around 3:1 which is good for bike engines. Track is about 1" wider. Also used in the z3 so should be plentiful.

This gives you an idea of the e36 layout. E36 323 325 328 Diff & Subframe Assembly Ideal For Refurb Or Weld For Drift

Keep us posted with lots of pictures.

[Edited on 13/5/17 by Ugg10]

[Edited on 13/5/17 by Ugg10]

[Edited on 13/5/17 by Ugg10]

Thank so much for your time. Looks like my best option would be the chain driven diff with mid mount motor. The BMW/Sierra rear end looks like it would weigh quite a bit where as if I fab up a tubular frame to hold diff & top of shocks & some wishbones i should hopefully save a substantial bit of weight. I've been looking at modifying a diff to make my own chain driven by replacing crown wheel with bike sprocket, maybe a bit of a ball ache so I'll look at the Trike company you mentioned.

Might be worth having a look at the R1 Mini kits for some ideas

http://www.lynxae.co.uk/Products-MiniR1.htm

There used to be a guy somewhere in South Wales with a Blade engine in a 205. It was pretty slow due to pushing around a chunk of weight. I'd go CEC in a tin top.

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Originally posted by TimC
There used to be a guy somewhere in South Wales with a Blade engine in a 205. It was pretty slow due to pushing around a chunk of weight. I'd go CEC in a tin top.

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And remember.....if you modify the monocoque, the car will need an IVA...

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Originally posted by bi22le

quote:

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Originally posted by TimC
There used to be a guy somewhere in South Wales with a Blade engine in a 205. It was pretty slow due to pushing around a chunk of weight. I'd go CEC in a tin top.

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Not a million miles away from my thoughts. 225bhp 1.8T engine from a FWD car but in a rear engine configuration.

All VAG, bullet prof and ruddy quick.

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I'm actually considering this now, I have just been offered an AGU 1.8 20V engine with 60000 miles & an Emerald ECU mapped to it for £400. With just a K04 turbo, VXR injectors & forged rods I can get 300bhp+ easy whereas a ZX14R I'm looking at roughly £2000 with throttle bodies on top of that then an uprated clutch, chain driven diff etc. I'm going to have a look now at ideas on mounting this in the rear to see what kind of job it is. Any links or ideas anybody?

[Edited on 16/5/17 by dannynewport]