Hello all,

Got a question. Got an '08 R1 with a installed baffle plate.
Engine is in same orientation as per bike.
So I have filled up oil to engine specs, then Ive added an additional 500ml (and maybe a smidge more).
Baffle plate bought from UK, so it is supposedly race proven.

I am having the oil light come on and go off at random times.
Sometimes it stays on for about 20secs then goes off. Sometimes comes on very briefly.
Sometimes it comes on when cold, and once of twice when warm. And sometimes not at all. Appears to be very random.

So want to put it out there and see what people think and experience. Any advice. Please see images of sump and baffle, please excuse condition of sump, it was after I had an issue with the stator magnets. It has been all replaced and cleaned since photo.

PXL_202 31101_105655597 by T Woods, on Flickr

PXL_202 31101_104725019 by T Woods, on Flickr

I have no experience with bike engines or adding baffles so I cannot Offer advice.


Questions

Why do you add 500ml more oil?

Is it because the bike engine is in a car?

I presume you just have the original 'oil level' sensor?
Best to fit an oil pressure gauge and oil pressure sensor instead.
Usually drill and tap the oil cooler bolt to get a feed for the gauge and a remote oil sensor.

[Edited on 13/12/23 by minitici]

I'd replace sender switch and check wiring. Is it also possible to fit a mechanical capillary gauge, in place of the sender? I'm assuming the switch does not require any ECU involvement. I certainly would not be adding any more oil as you may damage the engine from a hydraulic lock.

where is the oil sensor?
is it a level sensor, or a pressure sensor?

I guess it's a pressure sensor after the oil pump, and after the filter?

as others say, over filling oil is a bad idea, it can cause leaks, and all sorts of other problems.

but like nick205 I have little bike engine experience

Hi

The 'overfill by 500ml' bit is reasonably standard practice in the speed event world, where bike engines are the defacto fit in most up to 1100 or 1600 classes.
Not saying it's Good or Bad, but it's what a lot of people do to try and help against oil starvation caused by the lateral G and the car not leaning as the bike would, so pushing the oil away from the pickup. Personally Accusump or dry sump is what i'd always suggest but it's not a cheap exercise.


Minitici nailed what's needed.


The 'how to' has come up before, couple of useful pics in there, just in case it helps

https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=86811

Standard R1 oil light is just a level light. It's common that it comes on either when not fully warmed up, so oil returns a bit slower, or at high revs, particularly if the level is high; brought on by oil frothing and the float in the sump sinking a bit.

The baffle doesn't have an effect and you'll find lots of complaints about it on R1 forums too.

Best solutions are...
Fit an oil pressure guage.
Use the thinnest of the recommended grades.
Make sure it's fully warmed up before using high revs.
Check your oil level; I've found vheck hot, running at idle and level 1/2 way up the glass is best (not how the manual says)

Thank you all for your feedback.
I have ordered a pressure gauge and all the other bits to make it work.
From experience, is there a oil pressure value I should be looking to avoid. ie less than 10 PSI? The only value I currently have for reference is the manual which states approx 33 PSI at 5k rpm

Tbh 30psi sounds fine for an engine but it will vary a LOT depending on how hot the engine is. If the engine is in good condition you should just note the normal range when warm and just keep a slight eye out for anything particularly odd, either much too low or much too high.

But don't get too obsessed by it...


Massive drops when idling sometimes mean the pump is worn or the bearings have too much clearance from wear, or you have a hole in the sump but all engines are different. If it goes really high it may be a stuck bypass valve or you put gearbox oil in by mistake (i bet someone's done that before). I did had an Essex V6 that dropped to just 10psi on warm idle, where as my Pinto sat at 70psi all the time due to a high pressure pump but the machine shop showed me in their books that was still within limits for the Essex.


My old car <-- has nothing, no light no gauge, I don't care, there's oil in it so fine

[Edited on 18/12/23 by Mr Whippy]

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Originally posted by woodsy144
Thank you all for your feedback.
I have ordered a pressure gauge and all the other bits to make it work.
From experience, is there a oil pressure value I should be looking to avoid. ie less than 10 PSI? The only value I currently have for reference is the manual which states approx 33 PSI at 5k rpm

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quote:

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Originally posted by adithorp

quote:

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Originally posted by woodsy144
Thank you all for your feedback.
I have ordered a pressure gauge and all the other bits to make it work.
From experience, is there a oil pressure value I should be looking to avoid. ie less than 10 PSI? The only value I currently have for reference is the manual which states approx 33 PSI at 5k rpm

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My gauge is 0-100psi. Be aware that when hot, idle pressure will drop below 10psi, even as low as 5psi and that's normal on an r1 (don't panic!).

Couple of fitting notes...
On the 5vy (and I think later models) there's an oil gallery runs through the block just below the head with a plug each end. Thats where Yamaha test oil pressure and there are pictures of location in the Yam' manual. I forget the thread size but you can buy plugs drilled and tapped for oil pressure fittings ***

The alternative is the drill/tap the oil cooler bolt.

If using an electronic sender and gauge then due to the the engine vibration its best to fit the sender remotely. They soon die otherwise.


*** Forum search came up with this from 2008... m16x1.5. RallyDesign and Europa do them or Durite part No 0-523-98 is a set of 3. 1/8npt M14 M16 M18 all x1.5

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