So I failed my IVA test on Monday at Chadderton!

I really wasn’t expecting a pass, I took the view that I was going to see a chap who would give me a final jobs list!

I thought I’d share my experience and fails as it may help other people get through their IVA, all in all it was a good day and I was pleased with the relatively minor jobs list I have now.

01 – Noise, 102DB

02B – Emissions, miles off at 4.17. I suspect the map is questionable and the CAT not working. Plus when I tried it around the car park it wouldn’t pull at full throttle it bogs down. So something not right there.

09C – Handbrake cable lock not loose (inexcusable on my part!) and the brake bias wasn’t good enough, not enough going to the back of the car.

25 – Headlamps wonky, aligned them at the test station

GC – General construction
- Not enough thread showing through the upper ball joint nyloc
- Wire going to starter motor pinched in the P clip
- Brake pedal pivot bolt doesn’t have enough thread through the nyloc (standard OBP pedal box parts so watch out for this one people)
- Wires going through the rear panel to the number plate light need to go through a grommet not straight through the panel.

I’m pleased with the above, the only one that’s a nuisance is the emissions really – unless anyone else can suggest something I think the only way to ensure I get this right is to find a friendly MOT tester.

Some photos from the day:

A shame but as you say not too bad a list, only the emissions that may prove difficult.

When you say The handbrake cable lock not loose what do you mean?

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Originally posted by Daf
09C – Handbrake cable lock not loose (inexcusable on my part!) and the brake bias wasn’t good enough, not enough going to the back of the car.

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Think he meant "lock nut"

quote:

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Originally posted by markie6575
Think he meant "lock nut"

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Not too bad a list.

What engine is in it?is the noise due to the large open filter perhaps?

Not a IVA issue,but surely the rear lamp pods are on upside down?
If they were the other way around the lights would sit more flat facing backwards,rather than up in the air!

Not too bad a result, emissions might be tricky though.

What engine and ECU do you have? I got mine through with a Zetec Blacktop and Megasquirt ECU. Spent 18months just trying to get the emissions right!

I found that with an AFR gauge and CO meter, I could approach the test with some degree of confidence.

Cheers,

Paul.

I also had problem with emissions. Had to take it back to the RR and sort it for passing the IVA.

Lovely looking car.
When you get past the IVA it'll be all smiles on the road.

Steve

It's an ST170 engine in it running on an Emerald ECU, I think my best bet is to get it on the rollers to help with the emissions. I was hoping to get it on the road first and then get it done at Emerald along with a VVT delete.

The noise I should be able to get down by putting more packing in the exhaust, but I'm thinking of completely replacing the system as I'm suspicios about the cat.

Brake bias: a friend who has some sort of clever caliper pressure gauge thing to set up track cars and he's going to give me a hand.

The light pods are upside down but I prefer them that way - it brings them parallel to the rear panel which I like plus with them being so low I can't see it as a bad thing slightly tilted towards drivers behind me.

It's all suddenly becomve very real - I can see the end now and it's quite exciting. No doubt I'll have it ready for the snow and ice in the winter!!!

[Edited on 19/8/16 by Daf]

Emissions test are all done with no load on the engine so an RR session isn't really necessary (apart from the expertise of the tuner)

Engine is tested at idle and 2500-3000 rpm so if you have equipment, you can monitor the emissions at these speeds and adjust accordingly. It might run like crap on the road but you've got the bit of paper and that's the important thing.

Nearly there though!

quote:

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Originally posted by zammobhoy
Emissions test are all done with no load on the engine so an RR session isn't really necessary (apart from the expertise of the tuner)

Engine is tested at idle and 2500-3000 rpm so if you have equipment, you can monitor the emissions at these speeds and adjust accordingly. It might run like crap on the road but you've got the bit of paper and that's the important thing.

Nearly there though!

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Sure, it was just a Gunson CO tester (about £100). If you can get your AFR readings stable in the 14's, your nearly there.

The CO levels are really strict, there's less CO coming out of the engine than goes in! That's where the CAT comes in, as long as it's not choked and HOT, it does the rest. Then you can junk it