I'm attempting to sort out my rear axle to achieve 0.5 degs toe in and a bit of negative camber, any tricks or suggestions on the best way to doit? Hoping for some input from Matt on angles and methods here

apparently, if you weld a good hot seam allong the front (i think) it can pull it forward when it cools.... don't think toe in does bearings diff and shafts any good though? thought it was find for IRS, but i thought live axles should be perfectly straight?

Bead of weld, so if you want toe in then try 1 " in from the hub and front face of the axle, the tube will effectively shrink to the weld.

If it does not move enough then a second bead, next to the first.

Regards Mark

Just spoke to matt, he say 0.2 toe in and neg camber is the most I should attempt with an ATB diff as there is very little play in the splines.

Hi

I hope you dont mind me joining in with a question about the same issue.

I've been removing the old axle brackets from my English axle today to replace them with ones in the correct position.

Before removing the axle I had been doing some alignment checks and found there was some slight amount of negative camber on one side as well as some slight toe out.

I assumed this was distortion when the original builder modified the axle?

After very carefully measuring and fitting the new brackets as well as having to weld up some thin sections of axle were the original builder had badly removed the Escort spring mounts I rechecked the distortion.......

An initial "quick" check with one end flange on a flat floor and a spirit level showed that significant movement had taken place!

Its clear to me that beads of weld can have quite an effect, in my case the wrong effect.

I have now added more weld beads in key areas to pull everything back and I'm nearly there.

My question to add to the original post is regarding measuring accurately the results.

I've roughly got it nearly there with the spirit level and my plan is now to reassemlble the axle with halfshafts and fit wheels. I can then use the flat floor and my camber gauge to re check.

I presume but am not sure that then its just a case of welding beads on until it cools to the correct position by trial and error (or educated guess!)?

Is this the way its normally done? Or do the pros have a jig made up?

If the original poster has been experimenting I would be interested to hear the results

Regards

Steve

Hi,

A friend of mine raced locosts for a while. He made a jig to bend the axle to alter the camber.


Phill