I want to change my s/wheel from a fixed to a snap off to make it easier to get in and out of the car. Before I 'fubar' my steering column etc, I need some advice on which is the best way to go about it.

My current set up is the Dax 'paddle' shift system which works fine, but the set up fixes to the Sierra locking assembly on the column, most of which I would like to get rid of (indicator assembly, lock barrel etc). The easiest option is to take that away, leaving the ali section and the fixing points for the Dax system, and use one of these http://go-race.co.uk/#/bolt-on-boss-info/4558936296 which is nice. (It's fairly exepensive, but looks well made, and not like some of the cheaper Chinese made ones - no risks taken!) The only down side is that it pushes the wheel 50mm+ towards me.

Another option is to use a weld on boss to the current set up. If I do this the only issue I can see is that there will be no nut to pull up tension on the column spring, but from some previous posts that does not seem to matter. If I go theis route, I can pretty well leave everything else as it is, but when it comes to welding the 'slug' on, is it just a simple case of sliding out the column, cutting off the threaded bit, welding the slug on (I'll leave that to a welder) and then putting the column back?

The final option is to remove everything, use a weld on set up and use one of the ali paddle shift set ups like Pathfinder used to do.

The second option would be the quickest as I would only have to remove the shaft and get it welded.

Any particular weld on boss that is preferred/recommended? (I will use the splined type, and the car is only for track use only).

All and any advice welcome and gratefully received.

Cheers, Nick

[Edited on 2/11/12 by Nick DV]

[Edited on 2/11/12 by Nick DV]

Don't do what I did.

Got the column welded up with a fixed octagon style bar... Then used the removable wheel kit which I got on eBay.

Only issue is they welded it up without the little washer which normally sits behind the wheel.....

So it moves


Grrrrrrrr.

Not sure how yours was done, and when you say the 'little washer' was missed. It's these sort of little things I need though.

Cheers, Nick

[Edited on 2/11/12 by Nick DV]

The washer is the indicator cancelation plastic thing....




If its missing the wheel moves about forward n backwards....

Here is what I learnt by error.

I got a weld on boss hexagon thing with boss.

What I should have done is.

Half way down the column where the spring is, you need to push up to compress the spring as much as possible. I used cable ties.



Pic shows me cutting the ties to test the angle of the boss...... Make sure the spring is as tight as possible so you can leave a gap for welding and it still be tight when you cut them...

Now you need the indicator cancelation bush washer thing. I used steel tube the same size and height as the washer shown in the pic posted above....

So then I slide that washer on and mark where I should cut the column.....

I left enough room for the weld to hold and be cleaned up with a grind.

You need to work out a way to cut the end off straight, I used my cut off saw and a spirit level. Even with that it wasn't 100% straight so I slid threaded bar in the hollow boss and lined it up with the hammer.

So now I have tacked the boss ready for a proper weld and tidy up. I have removed the cable ties and fitted the when and checked it is straight and I'm happy so back on with the ties and now off to the welders to get finished.....

I only have a 100 mig so I get a friend to finish stuff with his tig or massive mig.....

Good luck and I hope this helps.


It is much easier to get the bipod kit but I am tall and needed as much room as possible for my massive legs lol


Dave

[Edited on 2/11/12 by jossey]

If you can track one down the older quick release hubs that use two sprung loaded pins are much slimmer, and more secure. The pins are slightly tapered so they lock together nice and tight with no play, and it's pretty much impossible to either occidentally release it, or to not to fit it properly and have it fall off, which is more than can be said for many of them.

MK sell a kit for around £30 I believe it is a weld on kit with a quick realease pin

Thanks for the info folks. Still 'confused' about having to have tension on the spring when welding he boss on!

Once the boss is removed, does the steering shaft just slide out of the top tube?

Cheers, Nick

[Edited on 4/11/12 by Nick DV]

Make sure you use an FIA approved one as a) they are a million times better than cheap hex style ones and b) you won't have any trouble with scrutineering at any form of motorsport in the future.

I am using this one: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p13867/BOSS-KIT-3/16-HOLES-5/8-SLUG/product_info.html

quote:

---

Originally posted by Nick DV
Thanks for the info folks. Still 'confused' about having to have tension on the spring when welding he boss on!

Once the boss is removed, does the steering shaft just slide out of the top tube?

Cheers, Nick

[Edited on 4/11/12 by Nick DV]

---

Adam, thanks for that. I was going to use one of the spline type like that.

Dave, thanks and I agree with what you are saying, but when I losen the nut on mine, I definitely get no backward/forward movement! Confused!

Cheers, Nick

Reading this thread with interest! I have a Sierra column and original s/wheel,but the indicator cancelling tube spacer didnt come with it. Can someone tell me the depth of this spacer and its I.D. please? Im assuming the underside of the wheel sits on the top of it,and the bottom of the spacer sits on what looks like the column top bearing. Im not going to use indicator stalks,so intend to make a basic spacer from nylon tube to the same dimensions,just to get me through the MSVA,then change the wheel later.

Also...a little off topic,but.. the mounting for the column(the alloy bracket with 2 large diam holes in,that clamps to the outer col.) Do these holes have some sort of rubber bushes in that inturn,have bolts through them? I was thinking of making up some nylon pieces to fill the holes,then use 8mm bolts through them.
Any info much appreciated. Thanks.......

[Edited on 28/11/12 by Rodeo]

[Edited on 28/11/12 by Rodeo]

I'm not a fan of any of the "new type" quick-release boss options available.

I've got one of the ones that has two tapered locking pins either side of the unit, combined with a key locking mechanism. This means that it can't accidentally fall off, and also acts as a security deterrant.

I've got one on my kit, LIKE THE RAID ONE and a second one in the garage that I may well be getting rid of soon as it's just collecting dust....

There was a thread on here last year (?) about someone who had a whoopsie when a non-locking wheel came adrift mid-drive....

Hi

Just reading the posts here, how are the iva with removable steering wheels? Do they approve of them? Also i want to remove the standard sierra steering wheel. I want to fit the D type race wheel. Again are the D type steering wheels ok for the iva?

Cheers
Rog

I can't see why a removable steering wheel wouldn't be IVA compliant; although it clearly states that this cannot be one of the forms of immobilisation required. As for fitting the aftermarket wheel, as long as the padded outer edge site nearer to the driver than the centre (ie. it has some curvature) then it should be fine. No doubt someone will come along with the text from the IVA checklist shortly.... However if you wanted to be on the safe side, you could always fashion your own padded centre section for the wheel?!?