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POR15 on uprights
prawnabie - 4/2/14 at 12:22 PM

Hi all,

Having stripped my Mazda donor, I am about to start recoditioning the parts i need. I am going to paint the uprights/Diff casing in POR15.

Having looked at the process, it looks like i need the following...

Marine clean degreaser
Metal ready/prep
POR15 anti rust paint
POR15 chassis coat (as UV stable top coat).

Can anyone confirm this is correct, and do you have any tips for using the stuff!

Thanks

Shaun


Scuzzle - 4/2/14 at 12:43 PM

I'd like to know how to use this stuff properly as well, I bought a tin of brush on silver POR15 and try as I might I could not get the finish to look anything but streaky.


deezee - 4/2/14 at 01:01 PM

I just painted POR 15 straight onto my parts and 5 years later, its still there. I cleaned them etc before painting, but didn't bother with the POR prep products. I used chassis black on some parts, but its not even slightly "Super tough" and didn't use the chassis black on much stuff after that.

Only advice I can give you is not to buy a big tin of rust preventative paint. This stuff is serious and will bond the lid to the tin if you get any paint on there. So make sure its all clean before putting the lid back on.

I think for a kit car, that does low milage, gets kept in a garage and only used in good weather, doesn't need loads of treating.


Smoking Frog - 4/2/14 at 02:59 PM

Yes, that's correct. If I remember right the second coat has to be applied within 24hrs. Once the tin is opened it can pick up the moisture in the air which triggers the curing cycle. Best to decant into a smaller container and sealed the tin as soon as possible. The POR15 anti rust paint bushes can be cleaned in soapy water if your're quick. Easy to apply by brush goes on like thick ink at the right temperature. Leaves a great finish but hard to see where you've been when applying more coats.


rodgling - 4/2/14 at 03:08 PM

Protip: don't get the degreaser in your eye, or you will get a chemical burn on your cornea and a trip to hospital. Guess how I know...


theprisioner - 4/2/14 at 03:55 PM

I had the whole chassis sand blasted, etch primed in black then two coats of the two pack hardnose version. It looks fabulous and I am most impress with it. far better than powder coating.

http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/chassis-progress.html


prawnabie - 4/2/14 at 04:50 PM

Thanks for the info guys.

Im looking to paint the calipers aswell - I take it I can give them the same treatment or is there anything better for them?

Thanks again

Shaun


rodgling - 4/2/14 at 04:58 PM

I've used it (in black) on calipers - it worked OK, I think you do need the top-coat though as the main stuff does fade a little with time.


CosKev3 - 4/2/14 at 06:41 PM

Rust Bullet is my favourite paint,expensive but the best stuff I've ever used.
I have seen POR15 let rust through it within 12 months on a road going cars sills.

Done quite alot of de-rusting/painting car parts/undersides over the years,see my archive

On the calipers I would strip them down,shot blast them then soak them in Bilt Hamber Deox-C,this is a water based de-rusting solution.Totally de-rusts including cast metals,which shot blasting alone does not do due to the porous surface.
After de-rusting I use a light acid cleaning solution from Rust Bullet,called Metal Blast.
It de-rusts and lightly etches ready for painting.