Some years ago I read the Electrolysis see the light thread, and filed it, deep in my brain for later retrieval.
Well now's the time and I have stripped my MGF ready for the Ariel atom style build, but I've failed.
I put about half a bag of soda crystals into water and gave it a stir. I then got out my trusty battery charger, connected the negative to the
"part" and the positive to one of the old bolts from the donor.
This picture was after a week, still rusty. Where did I go wrong?
Add some salt to the solution and start with nice clean mild-steel anode.
Sheet steel works best as anode Surface area facing the cathode should be as large as possible.
[Edited on 17/8/16 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 17/8/16 by britishtrident]
afaik rust will only be removed from the part of the part being de-rusted that can "see" the other anode ?.
you need a much bigger item connected to the +....i hope that makes sense 
Make sure the croc clip has clean metal to connect to
As Conrod & BT say it works very close to line of sight, if you line the container with a sheet steel anode you'll get results.
Make sure the Croc clips bite into clean metal. I bashed some old box section flat and wired them together to form a circle to surround my parts.
Make sure they're as close to your part as possible without touching.
Try using a smaller container, like a bucket. You should see bubbles within a couple of minutes.
are you using the right soda crystals?
there are three types with very similar names, would have to check which is which though.
baking soda
washing soda
or
caustic soda
Actually thinking about it for that syle of part I would probably just pickle it in vinegar for a couple of weeks. Then immediately wash off in baking soda buffer solution.
I used a bit of old metal bar from concrete reinforcing. I bent it in a spring shape and placed the part inside the coil. Making sure they
don't touch of course. You should see bubbles with a couple of minutes.
My charger has a 'normal' charge setting and a 'charge/start'. You can definitely see a huge difference between the settings.
Many more bubbles on the higher setting.
A single bolt simply isn't big enough for the anode, you need something with far more surface area e.g. a sheet of steel or multiple steel rods.
Oh and don't use a played or stainless anode. It releases significantly nasty chemicals.
So, a big piece of steel down one side of the box. drill a hole in it and BOLT the cable on...
Grip with the part with a pair of mole grips again drill a hole in the handle and BOLT the wire on.
What sort of ampage is your battery charger? Is it one of them 'smart' jobbies?
Ideally you need a power supply with a good 5~6 amps out.
I use a laptop charger, gives out 17v and 6amps. Does the job...
Before..
24 hours later...
An old brake disc is a great anode - cheap (ie free), easy to get, nice large surface area & flat ish.
[Edited on 18-8-16 by loggyboy]
Yep, last time I used two brake disc, one each side of the tank and it worked a treat, if a bit messy! They dont half degrade quick!!
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Yep, last time I used two brake disc, one each side of the tank and it worked a treat, if a bit messy! They dont half degrade quick!!
im in leeds two I have spare grahite anoids (much cleaner ) you can have if you like I put one on each side of tank. I have a thread on here somewere for details