Once you have tape and filled, and suitably primed, my understanding is you can paint/tile onto plasterboard - am I wrong?
Thanks for the help so far
Hi All,
In the midst of a bathroom refurb. Due to a lack of available local reliable tradespeople, I'm doing much of it myself.......
The ceiling is covered in delightful stipple. There is also a steel beam to cover and the inside of a dormer - this has previously been tiled and
then skimmed over. As a result the plaster levels are all over the place!!
I think it is easiest to remove the lot an put up fresh plasterboard - this doesn't worry me too much.....execept for the outside corners. I
guess the 'normal' way would be to nail metal bead over these, and skim over these and the whole ceiling.
Do I have to do this? Can I use
THIS on the outside corners and
just use filler to smooth the joints and screw holes, thus avoiding any plaster?
If I do this, I presume I should use moisture resistant plaster board?
Help and advice gratefully received!
Thanks
JC
You need to plaster over plaster board anyway. Its not a finished surface.
Edging is to provide a lip to return to and create a straight and nice finish.
You know this, righr?
Plastering ceilings is bloody hard which is why good plasterers are hard to find and charge up to £300 a day!
watch some dry lining vids on YouTube. Taper edge plasterboard was invented exactly for people like you - that don't want to skim the whole room.
You just tape and fill the joints instead. Still use a bead on the corners, but the tapered edge allows for it.
Not as good a finish as a proper skim, but 95% there if you're DIYing and have the man hours available to make a good job of it.
When you say use a bead on the corner, do you mean the tape like my link, or the rigid metal stuff?
Once you have tape and filled, and suitably primed, my understanding is you can paint/tile onto plasterboard - am I wrong?
Thanks for the help so far
Where in Lincs are you? We had a few walls and a ceiling done by a local chap, who I would definitely recommend, and all for less than £300. He did
loads of prep and, remarkably, didn't make a mess.
I've done a plastering course and I had a go at the bathroom walls and en-suite, including the ceiling, which are not perfect but good enough.
For bigger expanses, and for the bathroom ceiling I would get him in again. Our bathroom ceiling is artex and he recommended boarding over the lot
and then skimming.
Use rigid (metal) thin beads.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Thin-Coat-Anglebead-3m/p/240323?CAWELAID=120135120000015024&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=17408399812&CATCI=pla-193348
858852&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping%20-%20Building%20Materials&tmcampid=&tmad=c&a
mp;tmplaceref=QJztGjSp&utm_content=sQJztGjSp|pcid|43364522812|pkw||pmt||&gclid=CN2-8d_W_c4CFYOfGwod9Z0DmQ
Make sure you use small galvanised pins etc to fit the beads, otherwise heads stick up too far. Guess they could be stuck on.
I have dry lined a few places, ceilings, whole rooms etc.
It is not difficult to get a good finish, and won't need much sanding after. The trick is to use a nice caulking batt
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Decorators-Flexible-Caulker/p/600546 and don't put the filler on thick, and use scrim tape over the joints and
internal corners. Otherwise it will just crack.
U2U sent with location Geoff
Bear in mind that if the walls are likely to get wet, even behind tiles, you need to use proper waterproof board, otherwise you'll be doing it all again in a few months.
Personally I wouldn't redo the plasterboard. Does not take long to knock off the stipple with an old Chisel or multitool then seal with some
diluted pva and spend the money you save on getting it skimmed by a pro.
[Edited on 7/9/16 by B33fy]
quote:
Originally posted by B33fy
Personally I wouldn't redo the plasterboard. Does not take long to knock off the stipple with an old Chisel or multitool then seal with some diluted pva and spend the money you save on getting it skimmed by a pro.
[Edited on 7/9/16 by B33fy]
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
quote:
Originally posted by B33fy
Personally I wouldn't redo the plasterboard. Does not take long to knock off the stipple with an old Chisel or multitool then seal with some diluted pva and spend the money you save on getting it skimmed by a pro.
[Edited on 7/9/16 by B33fy]
Entirely depends on how well the stipple is attached. The damp and weight of the new plaster can sometimes loosen it. Some months later someone slams a door and the whole lot comes down.
Thanks - there are too many bits missing where partition walls have been removed etc. to think about overbearing it 
House is just over 20 years old so hopefully no asbestos.....
I know an excellent plasterer in Mexborough, if that's anywhere near you. 160 a day, and it's ridiculous how much he can do in a day.
Overboard the lot. Tape the seams and use thin coat angle beads (galv or plastic) on the outside edges. If you can't plaster it yourself, do as much as you can with the prep and pay a plasterer to come and lob muck at it.