Hi all , i am replacing my type 9 gearbox oil , whats the best method of draining the old oil out with out taking the gearbox out. And what is the best oil to use. cheers.

No drain plug so either take the lid off and suck it out or drill and tap the bottom casing (carefully) And fit a small plug.

Steve.

Clarke CGG500 Oil suction gun from Machine Mart item 040215070 is the answer. Yours for c.£5.99+
HTH.
Cheers Pewe

I can recommend getting a proper Vacuum oil extractor either one of the little 2 litre Silverline one off ebay

Syphon Pump Oil & Fluid Extractor Silverline 104610 New (5024763034824) | eBay

or a full size Pela one you can use to change the sump oil with

http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/info_PL176634.html

Thanks for the replies, will get one of the clarke cgg500 .

As for the oil, use THE proper semi-synthetic stuff as recommended by ford. DO NOT use the older style EP80 type oils as they can cause drag and damage. (Guess how I found out, yep it cost me a gearbox just after the type 9 came out and all I did was top it up)

If you want genuine oil let me know, I need to buy some for mine as I'm doing the same and I work for ford in normanton

The genuine Ford oil has not been available since the mid 90's, bought the last my local dealer had. The correct stuff to use is 75w/90 or 80w/90 semi synthetic GL4 gear oil. Comma make one as do Millers. Do not use fully synthetic or GL5, you will find the change difficult and eventually damage the syncros.

Thanks for the offer beaver34 , just orderd some 75w/90 comma off ebay.

quote:

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Originally posted by dunk3
Thanks for the offer beaver34 , just orderd some 75w/90 comma off ebay.

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From what ive read it takes 1.9L Litres

I read here you should use API GL4 specification and not GL5, But there are some oil rate GL4/GL5

As an example, Motul recommend this for the Sierra 5 speed:

Transmission manuelle (5 speed):
Best GEAR 300 75W-90
Better MOTYLGEAR 75W-90

The Gear 300 is a fully synthetic oil and the Motylgear smi-synth.

What do you think?

GL5 oils can replace GL4 in final drives But not in gearboxes, the reason is the very high levels of EP additives used in GL5 oils cause problem with the synchro hubs.

Moly in gearbox oils also causes problems because it reduces sliding friction to the extent it the synchromesh isn't effective and makes the synchronising action heavier and slower.

The Sierra gearbox will run quite happily on 10w/40 engine oil or Dexron II or Dexron III automatic transmision fluid also Landrover MTF95

This explains most of it quite well Link to Wikipedia "Gear Oil"

quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident
GL5 oils can replace GL4 in final drives But not in gearboxes, the reason is the very high levels of EP additives used in GL5 oils cause problem with the synchro hubs.

Moly in gearbox oils also causes problems because it reduces sliding friction to the extent it the synchromesh isn't effective and makes the synchronising action heavier and slower.

The Sierra gearbox will run quite happily on 10w/40 engine oil or Dexron II or Dexron III automatic transmision fluid also Landrover MTF95

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Then it is a GL5 oil
GL4 is and older spec than GL5 any GL5 spec oil automatically exceeds GL4, so GL5 oils are suitable for replacing GL4 oils in normal rwd final drives but cannot be used instead of GL4 in gearboxes because of the higher levels of additives.