Hello LCB-ers, here we are again! Still got this prob of the 4-branch exhaust fouling the starter motor.

Have now managed to re-set photo resolution, and upload a couple, to show problem more clearly.

So her is a shot of my starter motor :-

T9_Starter

And this is how it fouls the starter solenoid :-

Zorst2Sol_Foul

Here's another view for clarification :-

Sol_Foul

Seems that I'll have to find an alternative starter motor, with smaller solenoid. Anyone know which part no. or suitable source for a starter to fit the T9 g/box?


[Edited on 5/2/16 by Dick Axtell]

[Edited on 5/2/16 by Dick Axtell]

[Edited on 5/2/16 by Dick Axtell]

[Edited on 5/2/16 by Dick Axtell]

Personally if your starter works OK I'd be tempted to adjust the offending manifold tube with a hammer to increase clearance a bit.

I would leave the starter alone too. I would rework the manifold. Probably extend the primaries an inch or two.

Use a different starter - mine does not foul.

I think mine is like this one FORD ESCORT MK2 1.1 1.3 1.6 CROSSFLOW BRAND NEW 1.4Kw UPGRADE STARTER MOTOR

Is it possible to disassemble the starter and reassemble it with its mounting flange/body at a different angle? Perhaps even minor modification to the flange?

I used an LRS707 starter on my build. It has a short body but locates the solenoid closer to the bellhousing. There are some pictures of it in situ on the following thread:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=198534

HTH,
IanM

i would hammer the header pipe. Slight indent and will clear. looks only needs a little tweek. Hoe gas monkey garage do it!

I watched a test on facebook some time last week with the myth of denting your manifold and you will lose HP. They had a v8 engine on as dyno and took a base reading then slowly put some dents on the header to see if an HP drop. They ended up beating the hell out of it with no change at all.

so for yours I don't think one dent will do any harm

Be the way I'd fix it I think so close not much of a tweek needed :-)

Thank you everybody for your replies. I'll opt not to use the "Birmingham Screwdriver" (aka - lump hammer '' ).

Kingster996 and ianm67, your comments and advice noted. The LRS 707 starter has a significantly shorter solenoid, which would definitely provide one solution.

Since I have another starter, (but one with solenoid mounted under the starter body), is there any reason why I shouldn't simply fit this shorter solenoid on to my existing starter?

Either modified primaries or alternative starter, in either case I would get one of those little heat shield this for it. Give it a fighting chance at not being cooked

Couple of pics here: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?491969-Westfield-2L-Zetec-D

Seems to have the smaller solenoid as well.....

Cheers

Ian

I'd be looking at a different starter

If the starter is too near (even after denting the nearest primary) you will need a heat proof jacket on it to reduce the chance of hot start issues

All your comments are appreciated. I labelled this thread "Westfield Exhaust", because that's what it was originally fitted to - with a Zetec silvertop engine.

So do Westfields have any similar problems with their starters? kingster996 posted a pic which showed clearance between this exhaust and his starter.

As far as I know, everyone uses the starter with a shorter solenoid which would appear to be the Lucas LR707, never heard of any clearance issues before. Zetec with factory headers is a pretty common setup.

Here you go, found a thread by the guy I got the engine off (and hence the starter), go to bottom for a pic and info on where to get one.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=184714

Kingster, thanks for that thread link. The pic at the end depicts my problem exactly. Plus, the preceding discussion re overheated starters is also very relevant.