He everyone.

No this is not a coffee advert but a small request for advice!! Maybe someone out there can help me out with my problem?

I have a 1600 xflow in my car and all has been going well until I began getting orange water and the car started popping and farting around. I took the head off to find cracked hardened valve seats and a slightly warped head. Have a spare head so cleaned everything up, relapped the valves etc etc and then put the head on and the car ran much better but still popping on the carb and backfiring through the exhaust on full throttle (seems to die but pickup again when throttle is closed). I changed the dizzy, fitted new points, new coil, new plugs, new leads but still popping and farting!! I changed the 32/32 1300 twinchoke that I had fitted with a 32/36 that I had sitting around of unknown condition. The car ran really bad but seemed to have the same problem whe I got the revs up. So I bought a 40 dfi progressive twinchoke and fitted this and the car sounds "sweet-as" and extremely responsive but on full throttle it is still dropping on the pickup and popping on carb and backfiring. So now I am thinking that something else is not right or set right?

Would incorrect tappet gaps cause this? A faulty set of points? Another faulty coil? The tappets are the only thing that I haven't touched since refitting the head!! Any help or suggestions appreciated...

Andy

Air leak on the inlet?

I'd check the fuel pump and replace any fuel filters

[Edited on 21/9/16 by gremlin1234]

Thanks for that. Possibility and I have already checked that but will do it again!!

List up to now:

Inlet Manifold leak.
Tappets.

Have you set tappets both cold and hot?

Did you change the condenser along with the points?
I had this with my old mk2 escort, it took me 3 hours to do 30 miles due to the duff condenser.
Also carefully check the rotor arm for any signs of tracking through to the distributor shaft.

Dave

The cap and rotor arm were both changed at the same time as the meads and plugs!!

The condensor was also changed along with the points!! But thanks for the suggestion.

I think the chances of changing a faulty part with a new faulty part are near to impossible but still a possibility!!

Its beginning to drive me crazy!!

Is it a FoMoCo Distributor with a big black cap, these were prone to the nylon support for the cam follower going weak when hot giving all sorts of timing issues.

Doing the tappets AFTER a head swap is a must do item.

Also are the balance weights in the distributor working correctly.

JMH2P'sW.

Are you still using points and condenser ? how 1970's

They are crap, buy yourself something like, this, but check it fits your dizzy and carb

AccuSpark Stealth Electronic Ignition Points Conversion Kit For LUCAS 25D + DM2

it gave me better starting, running etc etc

but on the overrun my xflow still farts and splutters and bangs, but hit the throttle, and its all gone

steve

hitting the throttle is the problem! at least full throttle...

Have you checked the bob weights and springs under the distributor base plate? Springs can break and the weights can seize up. I would ditch the points/condenser set up and fit electronic set up. I used accuspark on mine, works a treat. Do a compression test to makes sure they are near each other and reset the valve clearances. Look for air leaks any where in the exhaust system, the hole in the end is acceptable. lol

Thanks everyone for your advice

Just to say that on seperating the inlet manifold from the head, I have discovered a splitting servo vacuum pipe for the brakes. I suspect that this is/was letting air in from time to time...

At least I now know that the car has had a complete overhaul and should be right for a long time to come and I have a good supply of (used) spares if they are need...