Evening all, just finished fitting new ap racing friction plate and helix cover plate got it all back together and clutch bled and can't get the clutch to disengage, I'm sure the friction plate is around the correct way as only fits one way. Engine is rover v8 mated to r380. I have tried playing with the master cylinder throw but nothing seems to make a difference. Any help much appreciated

Thanks Sam

jack up the back ..
start it up ..
dip clutch ..
gently apply brakes to see if its just binding or completely stuck ...

just a thought..

Or clutch in .. foot on brake .. crank engine..


I had a great clutch and action but it started slipping..
Swapped for a heavy pinto and redrilled flywheel..
Had to change the throw big time to get it working right,..


[Edited on 3/3/18 by johnemms]

You don't say why you think that it doesn't disengage, what are the symptoms? Is the pedal solid and not moving or can you not get into gear etc?

Car is up on axle stands if I dip the clutch and apply brakes it will fight the brakes and stall, the clutch pedal is moving but gets to the end of master cylinder travel and stops as expected.

Car will go into gear but it does without clutch anyway thanks Sam

Clutch fingers are moving in and out but it appears the master is running out of travel/ ability to move enough fluid to the slave to fully disengage. I'm running a standard slave and ap racing .85 master.
It's defiantly completely bled as just checked again
Thanks Sam

Sounds like your saying the clutch isn't disengaging despite pressing the clutch? I can think of only 3 causes, air in the system but the pedal would be spongy, the stroke of the cylinder is to little so slave isn't moving enough or the push rod in the slave is too short so the slave is running out of travel before the plates have separated. All depends on how much is new and untested but sounds like some measuring is in order.

Is there an adjuster on the push rod? I set this so it is almost the distance of the depth inside the slave with the piston pushed back plus the depth inside the bellhousing to the clutch lever. However you should be able to get this from the manual. Oh yeah its on another box, so your going to have to work this out your self...

If this is a new clutch you'll be after max throw anyways so try and get all the clearances spot on



[Edited on 3/3/18 by Mr Whippy]

Perhaps your master cylinder is too small bore so it’s not moving enough fluid, what size is the slave?

The fingers appear to be moving fine and I can see about 1mm of movement at the friction plate when the pedal is fully depressed?? The cover and the plate cove from rpi so I'm guessing they know this cover is suitable for the friction plate

Does the cover have to be orientated to the flywheel ?

As far as I'm aware as long as the locating dowels and bolt holes line up you are good to go??

maybe a bit cheeky but you have put the thrust bearing back?

Yes Keith a nice new one. I have a video of it operating if I can post it on here??

Was this engine setup with the gearbox working as a unit before you changed the clutch?

or is it a complete new setup gearbox clutch etc, if so, could it be the gearbox input shaft is not free in the spigot bearing on the crank

steve

Afternoon Steve, yes it was a working unit before which is why I'm so confused, the only thing I can think of is I'm not moving the diaphragm springs enough to disengage

Thanks sam

Was this a like for like replacement or has the set up height of the clutch changed, if you have a reduced set up height you will have to shim the crb forward by the same amount as the reduction in height to compensate.

Afternoon Bob, it's a completely new friction and cover plate set up however I'm running the old pushrod, fork and slave set up which I was told is pretty much self adjusting as long as the slave is still within it's limits?? Thanks Sam

When I have been faced with similar problems in the past, my first course of action would be to try to find a way to manually operate the clutch fork arm.
Manually wedge it open to the full extent of its travel.

Yes, I know it is often easier said than done but I usually find a way.

If you could manage to do this it would confirm if the issue is travel related.

Thanks for reply I'm going to have another look this eve I had to leave it alone for a bit as was about to cry haha

This is it in operation

https://youtu.be/DH2j7aoHXRY

Try pushing the slave rod fully back into the Cyl to see if it’s got any air in , used to have to do it quite often on land rovers to get a decent pedal

looks like enough movement watching the video.

Any chance the springs on the center plate are touching the flywheel bolts?

Yeh I thought it looked enough, as for centre touching flywheel bolts it sat nice and flat on the flywheel when bolting up so thinking it must of been clear?
Thanks Sam

Update I have found out why the clutch isn't disengaging, this new coverplate must sit lower than the old meaning the bottom half of the fork is closer to the bell housing casting and upon application is actually stopping the fork fully actuating, question is have other had to modify/trim bell housing slightly or is this cover plate simply not useable?
Many thanks Sam

That's why i asked about set up height, which is the distance from the face of the flywheel to the fingers of the clutch plate, if this has reduced then you have to extend the release bearing forwards by the same amount to compensate. Not familiar with the rover box so not sure how easy this is. Can you adjust the pivot point of the clutch fork, or shim the bearing itself forwards?

You want to avoid letting the bearing run too off-centre as they wear more quickly

[Edited on 4/3/18 by molecular bob]

stick a 2mm washer between the gear box and block mounting bolts will help

Ahh I see I was only familiar with shimming hydraulic release bearings so hadn't given it a thought, as for setting pivot height I'm not sure but going to ring RPI tomorrow and ask. Thanks for replys