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Author: Subject: Why dry sump a F20C?
clutch_kick

posted on 5/1/09 at 01:46 PM Reply With Quote
Why dry sump a F20C?

What's the general consensus about dry sumping the Honda S2000 engine? Is it because the engine really needs it or because it is a tall engine?

If it is the later case, wouldn't a bonnet scoop/hump be a cheaper solution?






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scootz

posted on 5/1/09 at 01:55 PM Reply With Quote
Purely a size issue. It's not any more susceptible to 'oil-surge' than any other modern engine. I'd DS it if I was competing with it on slicks, but leave it alone otherwise.

As for adding a bulge... depends on the layout of your chassis.

Overall, there are no problems with it that can't be quite easily overcome. Best starting point is just to offer the engine up to the chassis and take it from there...

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scootz

posted on 5/1/09 at 02:00 PM Reply With Quote
Speak to These Guys... Very Knowledgable!
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clutch_kick

posted on 5/1/09 at 02:13 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks scootz!! great website.

I'll hopefully be speaking with the guys at MNR regarding the engine. Curiosity overpowered me and I had to stick in a post lol.

I had to absolutely rule out the BEC idea unfortunately, and I did not like the cost figures I saw on the web to tune up a duratec engine, so it will have to be the Honda lump.






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sorens2

posted on 5/1/09 at 02:17 PM Reply With Quote
What about the possible bhp gains when you drysump ?
That´s a pretty good reason too.

Søren S2

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pwl

posted on 5/1/09 at 02:58 PM Reply With Quote
I have the RED dry sump in the link above on my car, it is a very nice dry sump it fits perfect.

I got it for a peace of mind, when running the car on track with slicks.

The car develops high G forces on the track, for instants you must have the fuel tank minimum 1/3 full, otherwise the fuel supply will be interrupted in the corners.

The height advantage is only about 2 cm, because of the bell housing on the gearbox is lower than the dry sump. If you cut the bell housing you would gain about 4-5 cm.
The F20C fits the Vortx without a bonnet scoop and hangs about 4 cm under the bottom rail without a dry sump.

PWL

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clutch_kick

posted on 5/1/09 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks PWL. Well bottom clearance is important since this car will be road registered. Plenty of potholes and speedbumps here.

Can you actually cut the bellhousing? That would be an idea.






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pwl

posted on 5/1/09 at 04:47 PM Reply With Quote
Yes you can cut the bell housing on the transmission, the flywheel is above the bottom of the dry sump.

PWL

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02GF74

posted on 5/1/09 at 05:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sorens2
What about the possible bhp gains when you drysump ?
That´s a pretty good reason too.

Søren S2


and what would those be? I'd have thought having the extra scavenging pumps would sap more engine power ....





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MikeRJ

posted on 5/1/09 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
http://www.circletrack.com/techfaq/ctrp_0608_power_in_the_pump/index1.html
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02GF74

posted on 5/1/09 at 06:09 PM Reply With Quote
interesting but I am sceptical - a pump designed to move a liquid = oil able to create a vacuum?? maybe it can but ....

a vacuum cannot exceed 14 psi - that has to be several orders less that the pressure in the piston so the effect will be minimal I'd have thought.

the article makes no mention of the power required to drive the pumps.





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sorens2

posted on 5/1/09 at 10:35 PM Reply With Quote
I haven´t got any figures, but know a few engines where they only dry sumped it to get the extra bhp.
It´s like that bended plate to install under the crank.
That alone on a Lotus Elan gave us 4 bhp.

The pump will create a wacuum for sure.

Søren S2

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