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Author: Subject: Sierra brake bias valve
jos

posted on 12/1/09 at 08:48 PM Reply With Quote
Sierra brake bias valve

I'm thinking of removing this from my braking system. Its from a sierra

Anybody got anything to say either for or against this?? or any advice??





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matt_claydon

posted on 12/1/09 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
Remove it, it's useless in a seven as it works on a combination of front-end dive and vehicle deceleration to work. The valve will be calibrated to the sierra suspension and weight distribution.

Just make sure the fronts still lock up before the rears else you'll be driving a death-trap.

[Edited on 12/1/09 by matt_claydon]

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bigrich

posted on 12/1/09 at 09:04 PM Reply With Quote
Should be fine without it Jos, I did the same on my old orange car without any issues







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JohnN

posted on 12/1/09 at 09:05 PM Reply With Quote
Why do you want to remove it (since you must have had a reason for installing it in the first place).
What has changed, or what do you propose to do to compensate for its loss (assuming that it functioned as intended)

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tegwin

posted on 12/1/09 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
As above..

I fitted standard sierra MC, front disks and rear disks with no balance valve thing..

Passed the wicked test without any issues





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jos

posted on 12/1/09 at 09:58 PM Reply With Quote
My father thinks that it is causing the rear drums to drag as the car is quite difficult to push (out of gear)

We're on a mission to reduce rolling resistance (no jokes please worx, Pintos are the business) and he thinks its the bias valve





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t16turbotone

posted on 12/1/09 at 10:07 PM Reply With Quote
fit valve from uno or punto ...works great
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Dusty

posted on 13/1/09 at 03:35 AM Reply With Quote
Jack it up. Turn wheels individually to find if there is excess drag in one. Also check front wheel toe which can cause drag.
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britishtrident

posted on 13/1/09 at 08:50 AM Reply With Quote
(1) It isn't causing the drag unless you have fitted it sloping the wrong way. -- it is a "G" valve all that is inside is a ball bearing that rolls up a slope under breaking.
(2) This type of valve isn't really suitable for your car.
(3) The brake drag is most likely caused by either the master cylinder piston not being fully released or mall adjustment of the handbrake & brake self adjusters.

First ting to do is check the brake pedal has a return spring and is being pulled back fully.

[Edited on 13/1/09 by britishtrident]





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jos

posted on 13/1/09 at 01:58 PM Reply With Quote
Front wheel toe is setup correctly - done by a local trusted garage.

Brake pedal's ok. Personally I suspect the autoadjusters in the drums but we'll see





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