omega0684
|
| posted on 26/2/09 at 02:44 PM |
|
|
OT: Astra Gear box CV Joint
mate of mine bought an astra coupe a few weeks ago and its been hastle after hastle, first there were pipes in the engine bay melting, then the spring
in the boot broke, now he has an engine management light on (fault code p0170-fault with the fuel trim), that apparently the fault code says that his
lambda sensor could possibly need replacing. then he bought it around yesterday and i notice that the gearbox cv gaitor had split in half and there
was cv grease all over the bottom of the engine. now he's complaining of a clicking noise when he turns right.
i told him to go to vauxhall and to ASK if they could give him a price on the parts and then i would change them for him. £30 for a gaitor  and £60
to fit it and £100 fo a lambda sensor and £90 to fit it! i couldn't believe my ears.
i am wondering whether or not the bearing may be knackered if there is clicking coming from the joint but i have no way of knowing whether that is
definately the problem? is there a way of examing the bearing without taking the gearbox out? and also would i have to drop the gearbox out to replace
the bearing if it is knackered?
has anyone got a haynes manual for a 2001 astra coupe in pdf format that they could e-mail me so i could have a look?
[Edited on 26/2/09 by omega0684]
|
|
|
|
|
stevepj
|
| posted on 26/2/09 at 03:31 PM |
|
|
I've just hadthe pleasure of changing the N/S driveshaft on the sons astra after the outboard cv joint decided to disintegrate.
Vauxhall wanted £90 for the joint, £20 for the boot, yes they sell them seperately, and then vat on top.
Went to the local motor factors, £30 all in for joint with boot fitted, or £76 for an exchange recon shaft with two new cv joints, boots etc.
Bought the full shaft and fitting was pretty straight forward, remove split pin and undo hub nut, undo two bolts that secure hub to the suspension
strut, that will let you pull the hub off the end of the shaft and drop bottom wishbone and hub out of the way.
Then you'll need a helper to put a pry bar between the joint and diff/gearbox from above while you do the same from under the car and give your
bar a crack with a hammer to drive the joint toward the outside of the car away from the diff, should just pop out after one or two hits.
Replacing is in the words of Mr Haynes a reversal of the above.
Time about hour and a half
[Edited on 26/2/09 by stevepj]
|
|
|
|
