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Author: Subject: Duratec install progress - sump construction underway
Micael

posted on 11/9/09 at 07:23 PM Reply With Quote
I plan to go the duratec route (swaping from Zetec)and this thread is very informative.

I wonder about one thing.
Where is the trigger pickup located? Does the Duratec use the same principle as the zetec, ie flywheel.





Micael Moose Åman

Petrolhead and all around nice guy

"Don't leave the duck there. It's totally irresponsible. Put it on the swing, it'll have much more fun." //Sleep Talkin Man Dec 23 2009

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flak monkey

posted on 11/9/09 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Micael
I plan to go the duratec route (swaping from Zetec)and this thread is very informative.

I wonder about one thing.
Where is the trigger pickup located? Does the Duratec use the same principle as the zetec, ie flywheel.


You can see it on the pic above. The trigger wheel is on the crank pulley and the sensor is in the approx 8 0'clock position.





Sera

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Micael

posted on 11/9/09 at 08:11 PM Reply With Quote
how could i missed that.






Micael Moose Åman

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"Don't leave the duck there. It's totally irresponsible. Put it on the swing, it'll have much more fun." //Sleep Talkin Man Dec 23 2009

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flak monkey

posted on 18/9/09 at 04:55 PM Reply With Quote
After alot of head scratching I think I have now come up with the right recipe for duratec flywheel/clutch on the cheap.

The flywheel part number is:

5S6G-6K390-BA

And it is fitted as std to the 2.0 Focus and 2.0 Fiesta ST. Available new from ford - not sure on the price though. Or there should be a few kicking around second hand. St150 fiestas seem to end up in the breakers quite often!

These flywheels are ~5mm smaller than the mondeo dual mass flywheel, so make sure you get the starter from an ST or Focus too.

For standard power (200bhp or so) the standard cover plate with a mondeo zetec friction plate will suffice. This is the same clutch kit as used on the rwd zetec conversions. Usually retail for about £30. This set up can use the standard ford release cylinder (CSC002) which will bolt straight into the bellhousing but may need a small spacer which are available off the shelf.

The other aftermarket clutches are only rated to around 250bhp, after this you are usually told you need a 7.25" race clutch and flywheel. Which is mega money.

For big power (upto 350bhp) a heavy duty AP Racing clutch plate can be fitted from an XR3/Rs Turbo. The AP part number is CP3560-2. A compatable friction plate is any of the 215mm friction plates which are made for the pinto engine. So you have a choice of cerametallic or organic. Eg CP5352-5 or CP5354-38. I have spoken to AP about this and they dont actually make any 220mm friction plates, for their 220mm covers, they are all supplied with 215mm ones.

The release cylinder/bearing to suit the HD option is one from a Saab 99/900/9000 with a round nose release bearing. It will need an approx 5mm adaptor/spacer making to fit it to the bellhousing. Which I will be able to supply.

It will also require the central hole in the pressure plate opening out by ~2mm, this can be done with a die grinder/dremel. Or I can machine the material out, but will require the whole flywheel/clutch assembly to do this.

Hope that helps, and clarifies a few points as well!

David





Sera

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flak monkey

posted on 19/9/09 at 10:09 AM Reply With Quote
Ali alternator pulley made and fitted yesterday. Needed to make it slightly smaller to keep the speed of the alternator up with the reduced dia crank pulley.

Ali alternator pulley 1
Ali alternator pulley 1


Ali alternator pulley 2
Ali alternator pulley 2


Mounted the flywheel and clutch up in the lathe and skimmed out the bore of the pressure plate. Actually turned OK with a CBN tip

Clutch skim
Clutch skim


And got the starter motor modifed, now engages perfectly (or seems to at least) with the fiesta flywheel. All that was required was 2mm skimmed off the mounting face.

Starter mod
Starter mod


I am now in the middle of removing all the front suspension ready for a paint up!





Sera

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Micael

posted on 19/9/09 at 06:24 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the info!

I'm of to the scrap yard in search of a fly wheel.





Micael Moose Åman

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"Don't leave the duck there. It's totally irresponsible. Put it on the swing, it'll have much more fun." //Sleep Talkin Man Dec 23 2009

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matt.c

posted on 19/9/09 at 07:18 PM Reply With Quote
You have been busy aint you!!!!

Looks really good so far mate. Glad to see you are putting the welder to good uses.






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mconley3

posted on 1/10/09 at 11:14 AM Reply With Quote
Is there are part number for a normal intake gasket on the Duratec? I've been unable to find a reference and was planning on trying to make one from gasket material.

Thanks,
Mark

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flak monkey

posted on 1/10/09 at 11:21 AM Reply With Quote
There isnt one as the std intake has 4 moulded o-rings to seal it. The aftermarket cast manifolds use these too.

Like you I will be making one from gasket material.

David





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flak monkey

posted on 1/10/09 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
Forged pistons arrived from the staes today. Not bad, 4 working days shipping and not bad on import duty either.

Made in the USA, complete with rings, pins and locks worked out at about £315 for the set.

10:1 compression ratio, so slightly lower than the standard 10.8:1 but near enough for me.

Forged pistons
Forged pistons


Forged pistons
Forged pistons


Forged pistons
Forged pistons


Also imported a couple of set of bearings, which also worked out rediculously cheap!

Still waiting for my forged rods though, now a month since I ordered must be on a slow boat from somewhere





Sera

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Stuart_B

posted on 2/10/09 at 04:48 PM Reply With Quote
nice bit of kit.

i have mine on an engien stand now, cleaning it, and make the blanking plate for the erg port this weekend, and hopefuly getting soem throttle boddies soon.

stuart





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flak monkey

posted on 12/10/09 at 03:17 PM Reply With Quote
Things are going rather slowly at the moment as I have spent the past 3 weeks working on getting my new garage in a habitable state which has involved some major works! I now have a dust and draught free garage though, 4.5x4.5m so a much better work space.

Sadly I need to get the suspension and wheels back on the chassis so I can get the car on a trailer and over to its new home!

Also majorly let down by one supplier in the US, now in the process of claiming my money back through paypal as they arent responding to my emails and I ordered over 6 weeks ago. Fingers crossed paypal will actually refind my money so I can source another set of rods from a company I now trust!

Next month I hope to source the intercooler, I will then have all the major parts to get the engine fitted. So by the end of Nov I hope to have engine and transmission sorted





Sera

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goaty

posted on 12/10/09 at 06:54 PM Reply With Quote
all sounding very good, shame about the us company, thats the main reason i try not to use us unless really need too. Paypal are normally good at this though .
I would be interested in one fo the intercoolers too if poss please
cheers
joe

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flak monkey

posted on 12/10/09 at 09:32 PM Reply With Quote
I will be sourcing from GRS for the intercooler. Will ask if he is able to do any discount for 2 off.

Should be able to make it fit any seven rep, bt will depend on position of body and rad to some extent. Nothing a bit of juggling should fix though





Sera

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radom

posted on 14/10/09 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
how much does this flywheel weight?
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flak monkey

posted on 14/10/09 at 01:46 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by radom
how much does this flywheel weight?


Not weighed it, estimate around 6.5kg which is a darn sight lighter than the 11kg dual mass lump!





Sera

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JAMSTER

posted on 16/10/09 at 06:00 PM Reply With Quote
sump

can i buy a sump/sump kit yet if so how much thanks
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flak monkey

posted on 28/10/09 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
The last of the parts from the States arrived today.

Forged rods and ARP head stud kit. Worked out around £400 inc delivery.

Rods and bolts
Rods and bolts


K1 Rod
K1 Rod


Rods were supplied complete with ARP bolts included in the price. Machined all over and shot peened made from forged billet. Certainly look the part anyway.

The engine strip down will begin in a couple of weeks once I have finished some DIY on the house





Sera

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Stuart_B

posted on 28/10/09 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
they do look nice.





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scootz

posted on 12/11/09 at 01:30 PM Reply With Quote
I'm guessing there are different sumps for different Ford Duratec models... ???

The one on my ST150 engine looks like it would be level with the lowest point of the bellhousing!





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flak monkey

posted on 12/11/09 at 01:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by scootz
I'm guessing there are different sumps for different Ford Duratec models... ???

The one on my ST150 engine looks like it would be level with the lowest point of the bellhousing!


They all do, I thought mine, but the after market bellhousings are also shorter than the std one by about 25mm.

If that makes sense!

The aftermarket sumps are 75mm deep from mounting face to the bottom. This makes them the same level as the RWD T9 bellhousing. If your std sump is any deeper than that then you are sacrificing some ground clearance basically.

David





Sera

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scootz

posted on 12/11/09 at 06:08 PM Reply With Quote
Aaaargh... thought I'd scored by buying an unused and uprated Zetec clutch kit at a bargain price, but it's the wrong size!

It's a 240mm kit and the ST150 engine is a 220mm one!







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flak monkey

posted on 12/11/09 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
You want an uprated RS Turbo clutch (or any other 220mm ford pressure plate) and a HD pinto friction plate

I assume the ST150 engine had the solid flywheel on then?

David

[Edited on 12/11/09 by flak monkey]





Sera

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scootz

posted on 12/11/09 at 09:20 PM Reply With Quote
It does indeed... I remembered the bit about an up-rated Zetec clutch, but forgot to check if there were different sizes!

DOH!







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flak monkey

posted on 14/11/09 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
Started stripping the Duratec today with the intention of fitting the forged rods and pistons. Started at around 12 and just finished.

Before picture:

Strip 1
Strip 1



The first thing to do was slacken the crank pulley bolt. Was too much of a problem, sliced up an old pressure plate to lock the crank against the engine stand and it came undone fairly easily.

Next cam cover came off, had it off when I first got the engine so was painless

Strip 3
Strip 3


Next removed the front cover, took out all the bolts and gave it a few taps with a hammer to remove it. It was suprisingly clean inside, no signs of burnt on oil or exessive wear on anything. I have yet to scrape all of the old sealant off the flanges.

Strip 4
Strip 4


Next step was to remove the cam chain, which means removing the chain tensioner by undoing the two bolts then removing the 2 guides. The chain then simply lifts off.

Strip 5
Strip 5


Next the cams were removed, taking careful note of the position and orientation of the caps.

Then came the first suprise...the exhaust cam is snapped next to the 3rd cap from the front. Thankfully there doesnt seem to be any damage to the head, valves or anything other than the cam itself. The break looks clean and it doesnt look like the engine has been run with the cam broken. So just as well I decided to strip the engine to fit forged parts afterall! Now on the hunt for a std exhaust cam!

Anyway, head was removed without drama, making sure the bolts were slackened in reverse order.

Strip 6
Strip 6


Next came the conrod bolts. These are torx headed, but male rather than female and need the appropriate socket. Not particularly tight. Again these were removed and the caps numbered.

The the main bearing ladder bolts are very tight, just need a long breaker bar though.

Strip 7
Strip 7


After that the cranks lifted out and the pistons pushed out.

Next job is to take the crank, pulley and timing gear to Scholar to get them keyed.

David

[Edited on 14/11/09 by flak monkey]





Sera

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