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Author: Subject: Pre SVA Pics, Check please.
Mark G

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:28 PM Reply With Quote
Pre SVA Pics, Check please.

Hi al

I finished the car today and thought I'd roll her out into the sun for some photos. Please check them for me as the SVA test is on monday.

All Comments appreciated.

















Many thanks

Mark.

[Edited on 4/4/09 by Mark G]

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omega0684

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
don't think the SVA Inspector will be too impressed with the spring covers tbh. nice looking car though

top ball joints need covering.

are you lights e marksed and dip left?

[Edited on 4/4/09 by omega0684]

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iscmatt
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Photo Archive Go!
Building: - BUILT - 2.0 pinto indy, Kent Cam, zzr1100 carbs

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
bolt under the headlamps

Nice mini switches there, i remember you mentioning them before on here,

Nice colour too by the way
<-----






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coozer

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:35 PM Reply With Quote
Looks really good, are you happy with the fog light? Is it red enough....

Top harness mounts? Is the radius on the brackets OK?

Like the headlamps, where did you get those please?

Steve





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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tomgregory2000

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:35 PM Reply With Quote
Grill?
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jlparsons

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:35 PM Reply With Quote
Love the mini switches. Are they higher than they are in the mini?





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mistergrumpy

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
I'll second spring covers. They don't look permanent enough. Have the braided lines got plastic spiral binding on to stop them being sharp. I got pulled up on similar rear reflectors as the edges weren't radiussed enough and can you have a clear fog light? I thought it had to be an 'F' marked official one.






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MautoK

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
That looks good, Mark!
Just looking at your front wings - do they fully cover the tyre when viewed from above? ... and do you need some edging on the inner edges between the stays?
I was picked up on my front wings - although they covered the tread, there was a few mm of sidewall visible from above - corrected by a judicious yank in the stays.
Good luck for Monday.





He's whittling on a piece of wood. I got a feeling that when he stops whittling, something's gonna happen. (OUATITW/Cheyenne)

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oldtimer

posted on 4/4/09 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good - I agree that you seem to have gone for the well-they're-falling-off-as-soon-as-I've-gone-round-the-corner look!
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daniel mason

posted on 4/4/09 at 07:32 PM Reply With Quote
how far away are the clocks from the edge of the steering wheel? 127mm maximum. i failed for this on thursday although it was my key and not the clocks,but same rules apply!
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Paul TigerB6

posted on 4/4/09 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
3rd on the spring covers. You really only need to cover the spring seats tbh and they are easily covered with some self amalgamating tape.






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eznfrank

posted on 4/4/09 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
What year blade engine is it? Cat? (unless it's burried under the wrap or in the can?)
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Hellfire

posted on 4/4/09 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
Have you altered the beam pattern on the front headlights so the beam kicks up to the nearside? I'd also do away with the wrapping around the springs.

Phil






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Hellfire

posted on 4/4/09 at 08:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
how far away are the clocks from the edge of the steering wheel? 127mm maximum. i failed for this on thursday although it was my key and not the clocks,but same rules apply!


Daniel, the 127mm you mention is the exclusion zone around the steering wheel where protrusions are exempt from the usual radius rules applicable to other parts on the vehicle. If that makes sense......

Phil






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matt.c

posted on 4/4/09 at 10:14 PM Reply With Quote
Great looking car mark. Good luck with your test.






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craig1410

posted on 4/4/09 at 11:02 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah, as Hellfire said, you will need to rotate the lenses in your lights anti-clockwise (viewed from front) by 15 degrees to provide the kick-up to the left (viewed from behind) required for MOT/SVA.

You can do this by filing a small notch similar to the one which already exists at the 6 o'clock position (IIRC) into which the notch on the lens locates.

I found the easiest way to set this up was to draw a picture on the wall or garage door with the 15 degree kick-up and then remove the bolt on the headlamp which secures the lens. This allows you to rotate the lens along with the metal rim until the pattern matches the one on the wall. You can then mark where the notch needs to be before separating the lens from the rim and filing the required notch. Took me about 20 minutes and the SVA inspector never batted an eyelid at my lights.

Car looks really good! Best of luck with the test.
Craig.

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Mark G

posted on 5/4/09 at 09:15 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the comments chaps. I think I'll be recovering my springs today then, Also must cover the seatbelt mounts. I was going to do this yesterday but totally forgot.

I haven't changed the angle on the lights yet, Had a quick look yesterday and had to put it off as was busy last night. Coozer - I bought the lights from a group buy from here, IIRC they were from Russbost.

The toggle switches don't pertrude from the protectors at all, Fist time I put them together they did but I thought they may fail me on this so I decided to recess them a bit by putting another nut on the inside of the switch pack that can't be seen.

Its a 893 blade engine on carbs so no cat required. I'll take some pics today of under the bonnet too.

Do you need a grille for the SVA Test?

As for the fog light, I think I may be able to get my hands on a land rover light lens as I think they're the same size etc but just coloured.

Thanks for all your comments chaps. Much appreciated.
Mark.

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Hellfire

posted on 5/4/09 at 10:55 AM Reply With Quote
I could be reading it wrong but it sounds like you're going to recover your springs. Don't bother, it's not necessary, the springs comply with radius requirements if they actually decide to put the dome in there.

Phil






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Mark G

posted on 5/4/09 at 11:06 AM Reply With Quote
do the top and bottom of the springs not need to be covered then?
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Hellfire

posted on 5/4/09 at 11:13 AM Reply With Quote
We passed SVA without them covered but if you're concerned, it may be worth covering them just in case.......

Phil






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craig1410

posted on 5/4/09 at 11:15 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark G

Do you need a grille for the SVA Test?

Mark.


If you don't have a grill fitted then the SVA tester can measure any radius inside the nosecone which is accessible with his dome. I picked up some aluminium mesh from B&Q for about £20 and made my grill from it. Very easy to cut and work with and can be retained with either self tappers or rivets (or even some hotmelt glue if you like). I used dome shaped self tappers and screwed them in via the flange so that they can't be contacted with the dome. Even if they could they would probably pass radius rules.

A friend of mine has fitted horizontal bars which are spaced about 40mm apart. These should also be SVA compliant as they stop the dome going in. The only worry I would have is that they don't protect the radiator from stone damage in the same way a mesh grill does.

Cheers,
Craig.

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mad-butcher

posted on 5/4/09 at 01:00 PM Reply With Quote
will a childs head sphere contact the body work between 1 and 3 exhaust manifold if so will need titan fast for sharp edge. also agree with covering of shocks (not the way a manufacturer would do it (is what I was told ) by examiner ) also front wheel arch and tyre covering as already mentioned....nice car


tony

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