tr
|
| posted on 26/2/04 at 07:58 PM |
|
|
Sierra CV Boots
Any tricks for changing the above? I've got the new boots and the destruction manual says they should slide over the jop of the joints, but
it's not really happening for me 
Is there an easier way then dismantling the whole joint to slide them on? I've seen some that come as two parts, that can be glued together over
the joint. Would it be a plan to split mine and glue them or would that make Mr SVA frown?
Cheers
Tom
|
|
|
|
|
Graceland
|
| posted on 26/2/04 at 08:15 PM |
|
|
where the shaft goes into the cv/lobro joint, there is a circlip, you need to expand this circlip and the shaft pulls out the joint and then you can
slide the new boot onto the shaft and refit the joint by pressing on 
easy peasy - 10 mins tops
|
|
|
tr
|
| posted on 26/2/04 at 08:32 PM |
|
|
Excellent...
Haynes made it sound so much more difficult...
Cheers
Tom
|
|
|
Graceland
|
| posted on 26/2/04 at 09:18 PM |
|
|
lol - the haynes comic is a load of titwnak - is good for propping up wonky tables and thats about it 
|
|
|
Steve Hnz
|
| posted on 27/2/04 at 04:24 AM |
|
|
Tom, someone might pick me up on this but I think it depends on the type of half shafts you have. If they`re the Lobro type then it should be as
Graceland says, but if they`re the Tripode (?) type then I can`t see any option but to strip one end of each half shaft & do both boots from
there. Hope I`m wrong cause I`m facing the same dilemma. Mine are tripode type, ( no retaining bolts to diff) the lobro ones bolt onto the diff
housing. Cheers, Steve.
[Edited on 27/2/04 by Steve Hnz]
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 27/2/04 at 09:11 AM |
|
|
Tom,
As Steve says, if you have tripode CV jointed driveshafts, as per the pictures then you will have to remove the metal joint cover from one end to
replace the boots.
Things I learnt whilst doing mine.....
1. The CV boot kits from a motor factor do not include the metal joint cover or a new rubber O-ring to seal it. However if you get the kit from Ford
it does and suprisingly it's no dearer than the motor factor kit either. Also the Ford kit comes with the proper metal bands that crimp together
to secure the boots in place rather then plastic tie wraps.
2. When you get the metal cover off and remove the circlip from the end of the driveshaft make sure it doesn't ping off and get lost.
3. Mark the bearing tripode in relation to the shaft before pulling it off and make sure it goes back in the same place.
4. Don't forget to fit the plastic spacer back on the shaft before re-fitting the bearing tripode.
5. Take your time and be patient when swaging the new metal cover closed onto the stub axle over the joint.
As you may guess I spent quite some time on this activity, however I am now quite pleased with the results.
HTH
Cheers
Nick
 
Rescued attachment 040118-14.jpg
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 27/2/04 at 09:12 AM |
|
|
and the finished job....
 
Rescued attachment 040113-03.jpg
|
|
|
tr
|
| posted on 27/2/04 at 03:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hnz
Mine are tripode type, ( no retaining bolts to diff) the lobro ones bolt onto the diff housing.
[Edited on 27/2/04 by Steve Hnz]
Bugger, on close inspection mine are tripode aswell... I've already got two CV boots (I forgot there would be two on either side ) so when
I get the next two I'll get some proper ford ones..
Cheers
Tom
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 3/7/04 at 11:25 PM |
|
|
Does anyone have any suggestions with regards to removing the metal sleeves from the CV joints? Mine don't wanna come off.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 4/7/04 at 04:04 PM |
|
|
there must be someone out there with some suggestions?
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 4/7/04 at 04:51 PM |
|
|
hack saw a slot and peel it oft
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 4/7/04 at 06:28 PM |
|
|
That would work. Was expecting Haynes to propose somthing a little more complex, so totally overlooked the obvious.
Cheers.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 6/7/04 at 09:34 PM |
|
|
Ok. have shafts in bits and have replacement boots a sleeves, but haynes say that you need a puller to refit the sleeves. Does anyone know any
different? Don't have one and don't want to buy one.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
Chris_R
|
| posted on 10/7/04 at 08:03 AM |
|
|
have no fear, the answer is at hand. If interested see Half-Shaft Tool thread.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
|
|
|
Pattrac
|
| posted on 13/5/11 at 11:24 AM |
|
|
Part Number???
Hi There,
I've notice the inner boot is split on mine (tripode), so going to do both while I'm at it.
Got it sorted how to change the joint, but does anyone have the part number for the Ford kit? Two local dealers won't order anything without a
chassis number or part number.
Unless your all going to inundate me with "no just fit the stretch one!" Does anyone have experience with these? are they actually any
good? And would they stretch THAT far?
Thanks for any help
Andy P
|
|
|
mads
|
| posted on 13/5/11 at 12:22 PM |
|
|
Ford Parts UK - 01722 424224 £11.91 + Vat each for the metal sleeve and gaitor.
When you ring, ask to speak to Brad.
Don't know part number but you will need some measurements [not sure what though] to determine which ones you need. . The gaitors are attached
to the metal sleeve btw.
We gain knowledge faster than we do wisdom!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
|
|
|
