Krismc
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:14 PM |
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Dashboard and SVA Re-Test
Dashboard and SVA
What should i do with my dash for SVA- I failed for it being too sharp, even though it curves under at bottom and id trimmed the edge with rubber -
the curve should be 19mm!!? so he failed me.
It came like this with the kit - i havent modified it, cant modifiy and i cant remove and replace it because its part of scuttle and the only dash MNR
supply.
The only way i can see to get it through SVA is pipe lagging and vinal glued over top - as he said pipe lagging on its own is not permanant- But this
will wreck a expensive carbon fibre dash?!?
Any ideas??
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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mccsp
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:17 PM |
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Can you not phone MNR and see what they do?
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twybrow
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:19 PM |
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Stick it on with either silicone, or evostik. Either will come off CF with a bit of elbow grease.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:21 PM |
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I wish you had raised this question last night. Could have explained how i got through using Steve's car as the model.
Basically - mainy the passenger side that fails. Drivers side should be largely exempt due to steering wheel area.
Piece of ali, curved on lower edge much larger than min spec. Covered with foam backed vinyl so it looks good. Affixed to dash with strong double
sided tape to give it that more permanent look.
It was part of the Mac#1 sva kit a few years back. I think Jos used it too. I seem to recall there were some pics of it but cant think how to start
looking for them. My SVA was 3 years ago gone december if that helps. Jos or Bigrich may have a pic somewhere.
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Krismc
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
Can you not phone MNR and see what they do?
I emailed them all i was told that other cars have passed with it.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Stick it on with either silicone, or evostik. Either will come off CF with a bit of elbow grease.
...You sure now?? or just guessing- will solvent damage the CF resin?
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 07:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
I wish you had raised this question last night. Could have explained how i got through using Steve's car as the model.
Basically - mainy the passenger side that fails. Drivers side should be largely exempt due to steering wheel area.
Piece of ali, curved on lower edge much larger than min spec. Covered with foam backed vinyl so it looks good. Affixed to dash with strong double
sided tape to give it that more permanent look.
It was part of the Mac#1 sva kit a few years back. I think Jos used it too. I seem to recall there were some pics of it but cant think how to start
looking for them. My SVA was 3 years ago gone december if that helps. Jos or Bigrich may have a pic somewhere.
Yea he said everything left of the gear stick.
Ive had a look for pics cant see any think i know what you are talking about though.
Where can i get ally?? B&Q the only place its bloody expensive?
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 08:12 PM |
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Ali as in aluminium sheet. Small off cut or piece from side of bus etc. Doesnt have to be pretty if you cover it. Any metal would probs work. Just
needs to be stiff enough to give permanent effect. Mine started about half way up dash, extended down about 100mm below bottom of dash, probs bent
arond a bit of pipe. Passed at Gosforth.
Far harder to explain with words than to explain face to face. Honestly - could probs have been made by now and crossed off the list. Hopefully you
dont have too many clocks on that side.
[Edited on 30/4/09 by DarrenW]
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pewe
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 08:14 PM |
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Beg, borrow or steal some blue plastic mains waterpipe. Cut a slot out with tin-snips (prferably the sort that takes about 2mm with it as it goes).
Clip and glue with silicone under the edge of the panel - min radius now not a problem - SVA pass guaranteed - cover with black plastic cablew condiut
- jobs a good 'un.
Cheers, Pewe 
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twybrow
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 09:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Stick it on with either silicone, or evostik. Either will come off CF with a bit of elbow grease.
...You sure now?? or just guessing- will solvent damage the CF resin?
Pretty sure. I have done both all over my car (and removed it!), and I play with CF for a living, so I can assure you it works. It would be a pain in
the arse if the surface is rough, but even then, it will come off. And solvent on a cured part is fine - it takes some pretty hardcore solvents to
dissolve cured epoxy/polyester. Acetone is fine.
[Edited on 30/4/09 by twybrow]
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Howlor
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| posted on 30/4/09 at 11:11 PM |
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I had a length of 'P' seal with about a 20-25mm round bit that formed the P. I picked it up from Woolies. This pushed on and came forward
of the rad towards the seats, so the full dash original radius was covered and could not be seen or felt.
It passed OK.
Steve
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Danozeman
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 06:41 AM |
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quote:
Small off cut or piece from side of bus etc.
I can just imagine you cutting the side out of a bus on the side of the road!!
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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DarrenW
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 09:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
quote:
Small off cut or piece from side of bus etc.
I can just imagine you cutting the side out of a bus on the side of the road!!
Nice one! Lets hope lifts arent made of Ali otherwise there may be one near Newcastle with no side left in Kris - dont take it from the floor if
you do rob a lift please!!!!!!
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DarrenW
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 09:59 AM |
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Just put this plea on Mac#1 section for you. Fingers crossed for a quick result.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=112378
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Humbug
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 11:04 AM |
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this any use?
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Krismc
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 03:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Ali as in aluminium sheet. Small off cut or piece from side of bus etc. Doesnt have to be pretty if you cover it. Any metal would probs work. Just
needs to be stiff enough to give permanent effect. Mine started about half way up dash, extended down about 100mm below bottom of dash, probs bent
arond a bit of pipe. Passed at Gosforth.
Far harder to explain with words than to explain face to face. Honestly - could probs have been made by now and crossed off the list. Hopefully you
dont have too many clocks on that side.
[Edited on 30/4/09 by DarrenW]
All my clocks are on that side, i dont get car back til 2moro so ill have a look then and take a pic.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 03:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
I had a length of 'P' seal with about a 20-25mm round bit that formed the P. I picked it up from Woolies. This pushed on and came forward
of the rad towards the seats, so the full dash original radius was covered and could not be seen or felt.
It passed OK.
Steve
Ive tried P seal from a mini rear opening window seal- it points downwards, id have to cut the dash as the return goes into footwell about 1inch so P
seal points down over!
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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richardh
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| posted on 1/5/09 at 03:38 PM |
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are you coming to stoneleigh?
might be worth a chat and a nose around
mine passed fine with standadr scuttle
in fact he didnt even look at the passenger side
Time for a change!
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Krismc
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| posted on 6/5/09 at 08:31 PM |
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Cheers mate. Silicone seems best option i think its got a decent hold but most can be pulled off first.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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