02GF74
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 03:58 PM |
|
|
I hate my fu*king car more than the other person who hates his fu*king car at the mo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:
Well I found out what the squealy noise was. As suspected it is the alternator belt, but why?
Well, one of the bolts holding the alternator bracket to the block decided to relocate, the other one was loose - lucky it was still in.
So question is why? I know I bolted them up tight and have spring washer.
I am wondering if my top bracket is a bit too flimsy so allows the alternator to move - this movement transfers to the lower bracket and loosens the
bolts?
anyways, job for tomorrow is to weld up a thicker bracket, find a replacement bolt and use loctite.
Oh, did I mention the oil piddling out of the dipstick tube and from the overflow can? Think I am overfilling since I am not convinced the mark on
the dispsitck is correct, grrr.........
|
|
|
|
|
tomgregory2000
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 03:59 PM |
|
|
get on the beer
my outlook is better after just one 
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 04:10 PM |
|
|
Spring washers? Waste of space IMHO
|
|
|
BenB
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 04:15 PM |
|
|
Alternators coming loose is a big problem. Nylocks can go soft, spring washers do jack shit. K-nuts; don't even get me started.
The best types are aero or binx type nuts. Only issue with the binx is that you have to grind them off (bit like a Rockweiller, they never let go).
As Homer says "beer, the cause of, and the answer to, most of life's problems...."...
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 04:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Spring washers? Waste of space IMHO
washer - there is only 1 left now.
why do you say that? not had problems before, not that I can recall?
loctite then?
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 04:41 PM |
|
|
I didn't know you could do a title that big
|
|
|
hillbillyracer
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 04:59 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Spring washers? Waste of space IMHO
Totally agree!
The force a spring washer gives as it's tightened flat is nothing compared to the clamping force of the nut/bolt. If it's going to come
slack it will, spring washer or not so they do little good.
On the other hand they can open up & get squeezed out from below the bolt head & that's definately no good!
I'd rather use locktight, shakeproof washers, nylock/deformed thread nuts, tab washers & a finer thread bolt if you're using something
a bit on the coarse side.
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 06:03 PM |
|
|
i'm going to do a turnbuckle (?) type thing with rose joints for my adjuster
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
Bladerunner
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 06:53 PM |
|
|
Your Car
Just have acheck that the oil is not coming out of your dipstick due to your breather being blocked. Had that before, just a thought!
Adventure before Dementia
|
|
|
macspeedy
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 07:21 PM |
|
|
i hate mine more! 
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 08:23 PM |
|
|
sorry, mines pretty awesome at the minute.
things actually going right with it for a change
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 09:56 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Bladerunner
Just have acheck that the oil is not coming out of your dipstick due to your breather being blocked. Had that before, just a thought!
that had thouht had crossed my mind. I still have the origianl breather box that is meant to go to carb but plumbed to catch tank. thing is, on the
previous engine (both crossflows) it was more or less dry.
I can try an adapter that has no internal plunger type thingy I guess .... but this monring I topped up the oil and a lot more has come out.
hmmm.....
|
|
|
StevieB
|
| posted on 5/9/09 at 10:30 PM |
|
|
I've had similar issues with driveshaft bolts (every single one of them) coming loose.
I fettled the situation with loctite an lockwire - might seem overkill but to be honest it;s one of the things that I really don't need to be
falling off the car at speed. Plus, lockwiring is fun and looks the finished job looks cool
|
|
|
LBMEFM
|
| posted on 6/9/09 at 05:25 AM |
|
|
I get worried and pi$$ed off when its all going wrong, and I get worried and pi$$sed off when its runing right as I am then concerned its about to go
wrong.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 6/9/09 at 08:21 AM |
|
|
.... yeah, will have a go at drilling the heads for wire locking; last thing I want is to loose my alternator 'speciallyssince it has cutom bolt
to hold the pulley on.
|
|
|
wicket
|
| posted on 6/9/09 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
Had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago, but its been alright ever since. Only fitted bolts with spring washers as before.
|
|
|
procomp
|
| posted on 8/9/09 at 07:38 AM |
|
|
Hi
Being a crossflow. The bracket on the block for the alternator will have to be attached using locktight. The vibration that these engines get give
many problems with alternators and starter motors coming loose. The tension bracket may well have come a bit loose if the gasket on the wtaer pump was
new and has settled after you initially tightened the pump / bracket.
Oil you are using a 20/50 mineral aren't you. Anything else thinner will always p#ss out when hot. Usually a jubilee clip around the base of the
dipstick tube is needed. The catch tanks / air separators attached to the block are notorious for leaking hence most just buy the fittings from Butons
Etc and plum directly to the rocker cover with a MIN of 5/8" or 16mm bore pipe. Same job but neater installation with less cr#p bolted on in the
way.
For oil level check the dipstick is the correct one for starters. The 1600cc has the markings BA on the end of the code thats stamped on the ends AA
is the 1300cc. If you have the AA one you will be over filling due to the dipstick being shorter. This will also see the crank splashing the oil
around considerably possibly causing the oil leak around the catch tank.
HTH
Cheers Matt
EDIT. i may have got the wrong idea with the tensioner bracket coming loose at the pump end after a re read. The bracket should be 5mm thick min. Also
check that the bush on the rear lower mount is a good fit in the alternator. If it's a sloppy loose fit this will induce vibrations that will
slacken bolts quite quickly. which usually breaks all the soldered wire connections inside also. ( Ask the locost racers it's there favorite job
)
[Edited on 8/9/09 by procomp]
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 8/9/09 at 12:35 PM |
|
|
I know what you mean.
Spent all day Saturday changing the hoses to Silicon ones I bought at Stoneleigh (Been sitting on the bench since then!)
I had also bought the dogs danglies in hose clips (Mikalor Stainless ones)
I get three new water leaks, which I eventually fix.
Then I find the Rad Cap housing had gone dry joint on the soldering and was leaking.
Fixed that, and all looked good.
Finished at 8pm after starting at 09:30.
ie what should have been an hours job took all day.
Sunday morning went to go to the SG7 meeting, yes... there was a wet patch on the floor.
So I put in a tub of Bars Leak, and went for a blat.. Back home, and its not leaking anymore.
Went to Sg7 meet and got back home and no apparrent leaks on the floor. Yea!!!!
Monday evening, went to do some work in the shed.... Yes the Wet patch was back... Its leaking again from the Rad.
Bugger!.
Yes. Its not just your car that gives its owner the  feelings!
Still if we didnt enjoy the car, we wouldnt own or drive them.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
.jpg)
