T66
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 08:07 AM |
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MNR Advice Please
I am still wavering whether to go Indy R or MNR...
I read the MNR comprehensive kit list and see you can get a full starter kit for £8995
How near to roadgoing will that get me, Im will be fitting a bike engine & probably a ZX10 or 12 or 14 if I can get one.
Ontop of the spend for the kit, what will I need to budget in...?
Wheels/Tyres
Engine
Loom
Seats
IVA
Harnesses and so on...
What else ???
I like the concept of MNR with their kit, its more of a complete kit and removes the burden of sourcing fixings etc etc.
I am fairly handy with vehicles but have never ventured near a kit car, so please accept my virginity in this area.
Any help would be appreciated
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02GF74
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 08:39 AM |
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£ 9 k eek  and then you need to source engine and other bits plus pay for SVA??
how much can you buy a finished MNR?
maybe that is how mcuh they cost, but does seem a lot - you are into Caterham or Porsche Boxster money there.
I know building a kit can be finanacial suide but that is not the be all and end all.
here you go:
MK INDY Yamaha R1 (2009) £ 8.5 K
MK GT1 GSX1300R Hayabusa (2005) £ £9,700
Caterham 2.0L Zetec £ £8,750
not meaning to put you off, but that is my opinions - wait for some MNR owners to reply.
[Edited on 16/9/09 by 02GF74]
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nick205
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 08:46 AM |
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For £9k I'd be wanting every single bit and bob included including an engine. That just doesn't add up to me I'm afraid.
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maximill666
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 08:53 AM |
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Where did you read £8995 for the RT starter kit?
The RT Inboard comprehensive starter kit is £3950
http://www.mnrltd.co.uk/p_cars_rtinboard.htm
[Edited on 16/9/09 by maximill666]
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Davey D
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 08:56 AM |
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you wont get much of a road going MNR for £3950
i estimate mine to have cost around £15k to build
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Pdlewis
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 08:59 AM |
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I built mine using the cheap starter kit (inboard) and sourced exerything else individually and mine is tested and on the road for just over 9K and im
very happy (some of the bits were bought with upgrade in mind) but i think I have a better car for it as I dont seem to have suffered from some of the
things like bending paddle shifts (as i have an AB perofrmance kit)
I would fully recommend MNR as they are very helpful and knolageable
Build Photo Album
Updated 05/02/2009
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 09:26 AM |
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Get yourself down to Stafford show this weekend and have a look at a few finished cars, have a chat with the builders and blag some rides if you can.
It'll be worth the trip if it means you get the car you really want in the end.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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coozer
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 09:39 AM |
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Mine was on the road inc SVA, tax etc for a few quid under 8K
From my understanding the comprehensive kit your talking about is Mazda based and includes ALL the donor parts to build the car, including Mazda
engine and box.
Talk to MNR, they will give you a price based on the spec, the more you choose, the more you pay. Much the same as all the other kit manufacturers.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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T66
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 10:01 AM |
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Apologies the kit Ive read about is £7995 and not £8995 in my first post. Vortx Super...
No mention of an engine included, must be all the rose jointed suspension parts.
Everytime there is a show on Im nightshift, so Stafford is off...
It appears given the replies Ive got, that a budget of £8000-£9000 should put a fairly decent MNR on the road then....
It would be helpful if a list of all other parts you need - additionally to the kit was available, or is that the kudos of kit car building.....
My query is more about how much cash I need (roughly) to work with to produce a good standard car. The spec I have more or less got in my head.
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coozer
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 10:45 AM |
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Mine was an RT kit (deleted now) the last one with Sierra uprights
On top of that a Sierra and a zetec, both off ebay.
MNR supply every last nut and bolt for a clean build.
I believe £7995 will get you the kit and everything needed from the MX5
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Gergely
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 10:55 AM |
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Our MNR with bike engine and full cage cost us in the region of 13.000 GBP.
I think that you would struggle to get a bike engined car on the road for much less than 10-11k.
And this is the RT inboard, not the RT Super that you mentioned.
Besides the kit, engine and the donor bits there is still quite a lot to buy for any kit (battery, fluids, buts and bolts, instruments, switches,
wires, wheels, tires, filters, reverse, etc...
I have a list of parts I used, but its in Hungarian I am afraid. But it came to 12.500 GBP without the really small nuts/bolts, etc...
Realistically, to get a nice, bike engined car built (without IVA) would cost in the region of 10-12k.
This is from my experience...
Gergely
Our build pictures
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afj
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 11:18 AM |
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WESTFIELD?
eerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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eznfrank
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 11:22 AM |
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My Indy's a ZX12 and just about finished and I reckon with the IVA and registration and everything else included it will just sneak in under
£10K.
That's for average stuff in terms of shiny bits, nowt too extravagant and used some donor parts but have used new hubs, Bigg Redd refurbed
calipers, R888's that kind of thing. Certainly not the most bling car out there but far from a shed too!
[Edited on 16/9/09 by eznfrank]
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bassett
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 12:11 PM |
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I think i had one of the first full kits and i believe they have now got better as it was missing key parts i paid for myself. My R1 RTIB started at
9k no reverse but with engine loom and clocks and moved to about 10-11k. You will need bolts major suspension brake etc are supplied but i have still
used a lot more £50-100, rivets, rivnuts, fluids are another £100, trim which costs more than you imagine especially with delivery as mine came with
none.
Knowing what i now do i could quite easily shave £1k off my build price. Check some members build diaries out for parts you may not have even
considered but will need and question what is included under each category when getting prices.
Overall i am impressed with what you get my priced up Tiger i almost bought was £13-16k and i dont think that was complete, then i saw the MNR was far
more reasonable better quality and lighter. Ive had my troubles but we are talking about building a car so its expected and i would definitely buy
another.
Adam
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
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Gergely
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 01:02 PM |
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I think there are no miracles... yes, you can get a Caterham, Westfield, etc... cheaper second hand with a comparatively weak engine. But if you want
to build a bike engined car yourself from any one of the kit producers, you are looking at the figures quoted above. A true Locost might be cheaper of
course.
Anyway, an MNR or MK Indy R would be very close in price I assume...
All I know is if I were to build a seven type kit, I would buy and MNR again... I am satisfied...
Gergely
Our build pictures
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 01:51 PM |
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If you want to build cheaply, recondition parts yourself, ebay engine, cheaper wheels, tyres, etc, I reckon you can build an MNR for 8-9k.
If you want engine from Malc, Toyo's, alloys, new uprights, digidash, paddleshift, silicon hoses, & the rest..........10-15k should do it
I reckon mine was about 12-13k
you won't get a Caterham with the same performance for that money.
Look at the difference in the cost of a fuel filler cap to see why some cost a lot more !!
You could buy used, I thought about it. But you will then spend £??? to make it the car you wanted in the first place.
MNR will be no dearer than a MK etc of similar spec.
GeorgeM
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richardh
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 03:26 PM |
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My MNR inboard with R1 and reverse, wheels, tyres, custom seats, savage switches, fluids, engine tuning etc altogether cost me £13k give or take 500
quid
if i had the time i'd do another
although i'd get CEC and screen, weather gear etc to make it more usable for longer tours.
MX5 engine with turbo would do 
its down to who you feel more comfy parting your cash with at end of day.
other builders near you with either?
Time for a change!
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T66
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 04:22 PM |
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I was anticipating being on the road with an MK/MNR for near enough £9000.
If I go the R1 engine route, that appears to bring the cost down. As does not going for paddles..
And staying with a standard roll bar, as opposed to the full cage I wanted.
Also using certain reconditioned parts should help.
I dont mind cleaning & prepping parts after all my current toy is a Lada which keeps me fairly busy.
Thanks for the replies I need to go think a bit more about how to do this.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 04:40 PM |
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RT+ is fully rose jointed. they are quick too!
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 05:07 PM |
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save a few quid & get the RT. Only difference is the inboard rose joints. The poly bushes will last longer & are much easier to set up.
Handling is still superb.
I too would build another. Prob with full cage.
Be nice to have a Mazda with full weather gear & screen, but only if I could keep the R1 too
GeorgeM
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grub
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 06:03 PM |
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I WOULD NOT GO FOR THE MNR THIER AFTER SALES ASSISTANCE IS NOT WORTH A TOSS AND THE FRONT UPRIGHTS ARE MADE OUT OF DOGSHIT, THEN WHEN THAT GOES PAIR
SHAPED THEY WILL JUST FOB YOU OFF AN INDY WILL BE A LOT BETTER OPTION IN MY EYES IF THAT SHEDS ANY LIGHT.
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prawnabie
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 06:10 PM |
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oh dear....
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afj
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 06:38 PM |
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so im not the only one to be spoken to by a very rude and arrogant guy when ive rang MNR but on a positive side they made my mind up
about what car i will build next
a mk middy or another indy
eerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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GeorgeM
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| posted on 16/9/09 at 07:59 PM |
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First off I don't work for MNR
I dare say we can all find good & bad about all of the kit suppliers.
Any problems I have had, have always been resolved
to my satisfaction, that includes changing items because
I changed my mind. They even swapped out seats for
me a year after I purchased them.
I was ready to spend my money with MK at Stoneleigh 3 years ago.
Their attitude toward me made me look elsewhere. Fortunately.
I think the best way to choose what is best for you is to visit the
factories, after looking at cars BUILT by their OWNERS.
A visit to a show is a must.
See how YOU get on with the kit suppliers at the factory.
They ALL make mistakes. They ALL have good & bad days.
Good luck choosing
GeorgeM
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Gergely
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| posted on 17/9/09 at 07:22 AM |
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I have built an MNR, and would build another one anytime.
Their customer service is first rate. Any emails are responded to promptly, even the tons of questions I had. Any calls are picked up and answered by
Chris and/or Marc. They have helped with my specification, changed it when I changed my mind, kept all their promises and deadlines...
When my front lower wishbones bent because of me incorrectly seting up the shocks, they exchanged it free of charge saying they could have explained
it better...
In fact their customer service is one of the most important reasons I would suggest MNR to anyone.
Of course this is only my experience, but if you take a look at this forum, the good experiences outweigh the bad ones about 99 to 1. Pretty good
score to me... :-)
I was looking at buying an MK at the beginning, and have very good experiences with them as well. At the end I went for the MNR because of the
specifications, suspension, chassis design.
Take a look at both, visit the factories, see the cars being built, talk to real owners about their experiences and decide.
You could save a few quid by sourcing a 2000-2003 R1 off ebay, by sourcing all your cooling tubes and hoses from a scrappy, making your paddle shifter
yourself (paddles are MUCH better than conventional shifters in a BEC I think), buy cheap wheels and tires...
Go for the RT inboard unless you want to race.
Talk to Chris and Marc about the kit contents, they will make you a full calculation that will be in line with your budget I am sure.
Gergely
[Edited on 17/9/09 by Gergely]
Our build pictures
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