scutter
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:00 PM |
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Paint advice
I've just sprayed my new front wings with Halfords rattle cans, to be truthful it's nasty
One is bearable the other has horrendous orange peel, i've rubbed it back using 1600 paper wet and it's coming along, but i think
i've shot myself in the foot by bringing the shine back up with G10 before spraying on the lacquar.
Does anyone know if it's possible to spray over G10? I know it contains no silicone. If not what process do i need to follow to remedy the
problem?
Many thanks Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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andyharding
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:02 PM |
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Think you'll have shot yourself more if you haven't put the clear on while the base coat is still open.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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pewe
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:07 PM |
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Dan, I achieved much the same (underwhelming) effect on mine.
I rubbed back the lacquer and then sprayed over the top. That's been on a year and hasn't lifted.
Must agree with you that rattle cans are a waste of time/money to achieve anything decent.
BTW noticed on American Hot-rod that they spray 6 colour coats before rubbing down and lacquering - which is four more coats than I used! Maybe
that's the trick so that you can rub through the orange-peel without exposing the undercoat.
Cheers, Pewe 
[Edited on 26/1/10 by pewe]
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blakep82
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pewe
BTW noticed on American Hot-rod that they spray 6 colour coats before rubbing down and lacquering - which is four more coats than I used!
with that sort of thing, don't they normally use candy paints? which (i've just been looking, as i want some on mine  ) is candy powder
or concentrate, added to clear coat. loads of coats gives a really nice depth of colour
anyway, i think you can buy paint prep cloths, with silicone removers in them. i'm sure you get them from halfords. also a good rub over with
cellulose thinners (also from halfords) should sort that out.
as for flatting before clear coat. you should normally flat before clear coat anyway as i understand, but clear coats are only really needed if its
metallics. plain colours don't need it
edit: sorry, it was polishing before clear coat wasn't it? no, i wouldn't polish.
[Edited on 26/1/10 by blakep82]
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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ashg
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:34 PM |
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just get some 2000grit paper key it up give it a good clean with panel wipe the you can do the clear coat. the finish needs to be dull prior to clear
coat.
tbh rattle cans are a waste of time although the ones purchased from proper paint shops usually have better spray patterns which at least give you a
fighting chance.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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bartonp
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:54 PM |
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Radical thought - keep the nasty paint & get it wrapped instead...
http://www.carbonskin.co.uk/
(NTDWM)
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smart51
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 12:57 PM |
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I've sprayed with halfords cans and got a good finish, so it can be done. The wife drove through some emulsion paint that had been spilled on
the road then tried to clean it off with, I don't know, wire wool? The colour match was perfect straight from the can too.
You want a matt surface for spraying your top coat on so you shouldn't have polished. Wet sand it with 600 grit until it is smooth and
uniformly matt then when dry, spray on your clear coat. It will be nice and shiny and lovely.
edit to say, I didn't get any orange peel. Were you holding the can too close or spraying on too thick a coat?
[Edited on 26-1-2010 by smart51]
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 01:35 PM |
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Hi scotchbrite it then a fresh coat of colour then laquer it wait ages (weeks in this weather) then polish
any marks in the base will be magnified by the laquer so yo really do have to get a good base finish straight from the gun/can dont worry its now
coloured up so you only need to flash over with a fresh coat of base before the laquer
and as above dont wait too long before laquering as it needs to stick to the base
hope this helps
Ray
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RK
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 01:47 PM |
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I did my rear arches with laquer rattle cans. 250, 600, 1000 and finally 2000 sanding, wet. It turned out OK, but not that really shiny, uniform look
I wanted. I want to clear coat in the spring, or ditch it and vinyl it.
For the nosecone, I did it with less sanding and less paint, because the weather turned as I was finishing. I will do it later, and I have a crack or
two to repair anyways.
The only problem I see with vinyl wrap, and I've done that to my sides, bonnet, scuttle and rear (and interior) panel, is that it doesn't
do corners very well, so a professional job would be recommended. You can get sign vinyl on EBay for cheap cheap. At least it leaves a uniform finish.
The professional job looks good on the buses though!!
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scutter
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 06:12 PM |
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OK, so as I read it, i need to rub all the peel off the wings, wipe it down, then give it another coat of colour and spary on the lacquar?
Does anyone know if the Lacquar could have gone over the G10?
Looks like my engine upgrade next winter is on hold for a full pro respray, cars looking tired after 5years and 25000 miles.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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Peteff
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| posted on 26/1/10 at 07:10 PM |
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Don't lacquer over the polish, you'll get fish eyes in the finish. As above wipe it over with some panel wipe or thinners on a rag. You
don't need a shine on basecoat, that's what the clear coat is for.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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