eznfrank
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| posted on 10/2/10 at 01:33 PM |
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a starter motor type reverse?
I'm going to tackle the reverse this weekend but I'm not entirely sure how to wire it up.
Ideally I want to use a second battery solely for the reverse but I also want to keep it IVA compliant. Could anyone suggest a wiring diagram for
me?
(In terms of the IVA compliance my main issue is whether the vehicle will be classed as "immobile" if I have it as a stand alone sytem)
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ashg
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| posted on 10/2/10 at 01:41 PM |
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big red fat wire from battery to motor positive.
big fat black wire from chassis to body of the motor.
then positive wire from battery through a switch or button then to the small terminal on the motor.
i wouldn't bother with a second battery as you will have to install a split charge system.
if the engine is running the alternator will be running which will provide the power for the reverse so no need to uprate the battery unless its a
silly small one
dont forget to fuse the two wires from the battery for the fat main wire use a 100amp car audio system inline fuse as they are cheep and usually quite
good quality
[Edited on 10/2/10 by ashg]
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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petercd
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| posted on 10/2/10 at 02:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ashg
big red fat wire from battery to motor positive.
big fat black wire from chassis to body of the motor.
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[Edited on 10/2/10 by ashg]
Usually the big red wire goes from the batt to the solenoid, with a copper strap from the solenoid internals to the motor positive.
As you've described it above, makes it sound as if the motor will run continuously.
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02GF74
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| posted on 10/2/10 at 04:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by petercd
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Usually the big red wire goes from the batt to the solenoid, with a copper strap from the solenoid internals to the motor positive.
As you've described it above, makes it sound as if the motor will run continuously.
indeed - there needs to be some sort of switch between the battery and motor terminal - due to the high currents, this would be a high power relay or
solenoid.
Either of those would need to be switched by a panel siwtch.
It may be prudent to fit an interlock so that the panel switch is only active when the gearbox is in neutral - should be easy to do since motorbikes
have neutral light, well mine does but it is more than 30 yrs old so things may have moved on.
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Lightning
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| posted on 10/2/10 at 04:33 PM |
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i put in a relay that was earthed to the neutral gear wire. Therefore the relay will only work in neutral. The relay then powers the solenoid on the
starter. The main power lead from the starter to the +ve on battery.
For some reason the engine doesnt like running with the reverse gaer as the Kawasaki immobiliser kicks in. After goeing backwards I have to reset
immobiliser to start the engine....bugger
Steve
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40inches
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| posted on 11/2/10 at 10:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Lightning
i put in a relay that was earthed to the neutral gear wire. Therefore the relay will only work in neutral. The relay then powers the solenoid on the
starter. The main power lead from the starter to the +ve on battery.
For some reason the engine doesnt like running with the reverse gaer as the Kawasaki immobiliser kicks in. After goeing backwards I have to reset
immobiliser to start the engine....bugger
This may be the reverse motor "stealing" current from the engine ECU, the voltage seen by the ECU drops enough to kick in the anti theft
or the engine will stop altogether, either a bigger battery or a second battery for reverse, with a split charge relay, would do the job ( I opted for
the latter).
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Lightning
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| posted on 11/2/10 at 01:51 PM |
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Thats what I thought of doing. The bike battery is not really man enough. I think I will borrow the one out of the TVR for the test. Its 70 ah instead
of 12.
Steve
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