mickymac
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 12:07 AM |
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Sierra diffs and driveshafts.
I need help. I compete in sprints and I have just sold my Zetec Luego (english axle) and bought an Mk Indy with fireblade engine (7"sierra
diff). I am having problems sorting out drive shafts and this seasons first sprint is two weeks away and I was wondering if anyone on the forum can
help with information.
The MK had a 7" sierra diff (3.14) with push in shafts and I bought a 7" (3.62) for push in shafts, it came with two of the correct stub
shafts pushed into the diff. My drive shafts diff ends were to large in diameter to fit into the 3.62 diff so I removed a diff stub shaft from my
origional driveshafts to find the tripodes are to large to fit the new correct stub shaft.
Questions -
1. can I buy smaller tripode joints?
2. If so where?
3. Is the hole in the centre of the tripode joints (where the circlips is ) the same diameter for all pushin shafts, ie could I fit the small
triposdejoint to my driveshaft.
4. Is the set of splines at the wheel end the same on all the drive shafts for all sierras with either drum or disk brakes and all I am looking for
is the diff end of any shaft. I have 9" Ford rear brakes.
Thanks
Mike
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delboy
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 10:05 AM |
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There are two different diameters of shaft. The earlier sierra shafts are a smaller diameter where they go into the diff . The later push in shafts
and the lobro shafts(the ones held into the diff with a clip are the same diameter.
I would have thought that a 3.14 ( from a 2.3 diesel usually) would be the smaller diameter shaft.However, if you have the larger shafts with your
3.14 you just need to get a later 3.62 diff. This is the easiest one to find other than possibly a 3.92.
[Edited on 27/2/10 by delboy]
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 11:41 AM |
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There are two types of tripode shafts.
3.14 diffs are 7inch and have "standard" inner CV joints. Standard means 26splines (I know because that is what I have, and the
driveshafts came out of a car with a petrol 1.8litre engine).
What you seem to have is a 3.62 6.5inch diff. These have the same interfaces (i.e. mounting points) but have smaller internals and take different
inner CV joints. This is good (because its a bit lighter, 18kg, versus 22kg for 7inch), but bad, because your driveshafts don't fit.
From my notes (a while ago):
Here are two Tripod driveshafts options:
23 spline version
RH (driver side) driveshaft 796mm long, LH driveshaft is 767mm long,
28 outer cv splines and 23 inner cv splines
and fits the following vehicles:
Ford Sierra 1.3 - 10/82 to 3/87
Ford Sierra 1.6 - 10/82 to 3/87 - NOT Estate
Ford Sierra 1.6 - 3/87 to 5/92 - NOT Estate - NOT ABS
26 spline version
RH driveshaft 835mm long, LH (passenger side) driveshaft, 795mm long,
28 outer cv splines and 26 inner cv splines
and fits the following vehicles:
Ford Sierra 1.6 Estate - 10/82 to 4/93
Ford Sierra 1.8 - 10/84 to 3/87
Ford Sierra 1.8,1.8TD - 3/87 to 4/93 - NOT ABS
Ford Sierra 2.0 - 10/82 to 3/87 - NOT Cosworth
Ford Sierra 2.0 - 3/87 to 4/93 - NOT 4x4 or ABS
Ford Sierra 2.3 - 10/82 to 3/87
Ford Sierra 2.3D - 10/82 to 2/90
To answer your questions:
1)
You can buy new driveshafts on e-bay with the inner CV joint attached (search on: FORD SIERRA 1.3 1.6 DRIVESHAFT) and go from there. You might be
able to build the other parts and build it up. Alternatively, www.fordparts.co.uk or even a main dealer (CV joints are a part that do wearout).
2) Damn just answered that!
3) I don't understnad the question, I'll answer B. (good multichoice exam technique!)
4) I think the wheel ends are all the same. Although I am not 100% certain.
If you were to pick up two new right-hand driveshafts (this would give you the shafts which you need and 2 inner CV push in CV joints which you need)
then you could get the shafts modified to the correct length, and use your left outer CV joint (which has the correct thread rotation to avoid the
wheel falling off). The only annoying thing about all this is that the boots cannot be removed without destroying them, and I don't think that
driveshaft can be shortened taking the CV joints off.
I am thinking about doing a similar thing, (to improve the ratio, and save some weight), its annoying that it isn't easier.
On the bright side, if you sell the 3.14 (about £250) it will pay for all this pain! If you just want to change the ratio (and don't care
about the weight) then a 7inch 3.62 is the easiest (and cheapest ~£50) solution.
Matt
[Edited on 27/2/10 by matt_gsxr]
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jack_t
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 11:49 AM |
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are you sure you have got a 3.14 diff cos i thought they only came with bolt on shafts?
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 11:56 AM |
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3.14 are only push-in. 100% certain of that.
Matt
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jack_t
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 03:56 PM |
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i have a 3.14 and have seen other 3.14s and they were all bolt on
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fesycresy
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 04:43 PM |
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All 3.14's and 3.38's came from the factory as push ins.
However there's nothing stopping you using the flanges from say a 3.62 LSD, like I've done.
You just seen a converted diff.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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mickymac
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 12:28 AM |
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Thanks all for a wealth of information . I will have to sit down and work out where I go from here.
Anyone know anything about the prop shaft/ diff flange. I have a 108mm dia one on my prop shaft and one of my diffs has a smaller diam shaft.
Mike
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