dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:34 AM |
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Is my EDIS knackered? Desperate now..... :(
Can't seem to get an RPM signal from my megajolt. The wiring is all connected up as it should be and have tested this.... twice.
Everything goes where it should but no RPM read out on the dash or on the PC screen. I am connected to the megajolt.... have TPS set up and it's
reading on the PC. No igniton changes or RPM changes on PC
Can anyone help.... off to rolling road later. Need this to work 
Any suggestions welcome
Thanks
Dan
[Edited on 2/3/10 by dan8400]
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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ashg
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:36 AM |
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does the car run?
if it does then it can only be the pip and saw lines between the edis and the mjolt.
i would first check that there are no bad joints in the pip and saw wires with a multi meter. also check if you have them round the wrong way.
once you think it is right and you have an rpm display on the pc, put the idle advance on the mjolt to 5 degrees then trun the mjolt on and off with
the engine running leaving the edis 4 on. if the mjolt is controlling the edis 4 then the engine note should change as you turn the mjolt on and
off.
another indication that everything is working ok is that the little green box will move around on the table depending on how many revs you give it.
[Edited on 2/3/10 by ashg]
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
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dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:37 AM |
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Yes starts and runs. Tested the wires between the EDIS plug and the MJ plug seem ok.
What am i missing? Is there a chance there is a problem inside the MJ?
Dan
[Edited on 2/3/10 by dan8400]
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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ashg
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:44 AM |
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could possibly be. have you tried swaping the pip and saw wires round with each other? i thought i had them the right way ad first but they were
wrong.
if the engine is running we know the edis4 is ok so its either the pip and saw wires or someting internal in the mjolt.
did you build it yourself?
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:46 AM |
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Yes tried swapping wires but no change. Tested the wires with the beep setting on multi meter. From MJ plug to EDIS plug. Both beeped.
I built the MJ myself and now am regretting it. Have i buggered it up??
Dan
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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ashg
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:50 AM |
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chances are you have a dry joint somewhere on the mjolt board.
whip it apart and run through the build instructions checking that there are no dry joints or bits of solder between two pins. also check that
nothing on the board is touching on the metal case as that will casue you no end of problems.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 11:52 AM |
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Ok i'll whip it off and check it.
Thank you ash
Dan
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:04 PM |
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Took MJ to bits and tested the voltage points as per assembly instructions. All seem to be ok.
Don't know how else to test it...
Dan
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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ashg
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:09 PM |
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thats strange may be worth posting on the autosport labs forum and see what they have to say. if the voltages are all ok then there must only be a
few things that it could be.
http://www.autosportlabs.org/
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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ashg
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:11 PM |
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another little thing i just thought about are you using shielded wire for the pip and saw signals
found this too
The primary test after assembly and voltage checks is to verify communication with a PC.
If you cannot communicate with the unit, check the components and related solder joints around the MAX232A and all of the 0.1uF capacitors around that
chip.
Also check the proper installation of the oscillator- check installation orientation and solder joints. Also verify that you see a clock signal going
into pin 10 of U1- with a regular DC voltmeter you should see about 2.5V.
Finally, do a general check around the board for bad solder joints, especially all of the pins on U1.
[Edited on 2/3/10 by ashg]
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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ashg
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:17 PM |
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you could try this bout i doubt you will make it before the rr today
http://www.heggs.co.uk/vrssim/
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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woolly
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:24 PM |
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i would try disconnecting the dash rev counter not all are compatible
woolly
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dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 12:39 PM |
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Tried it with and without rev counter
Dan
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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woolly
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 01:15 PM |
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the thing that caught me out was the the EDIS has 2 earth connections.
feel for you
woolly
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dan8400
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 01:24 PM |
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I'm getting jut under 7 volt reading when running the engine on EDIS alone from PIP. 0 volts on the SAW.
Hey - That's Journey!!!
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Werner Van Loock
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| posted on 2/3/10 at 07:14 PM |
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it is running right, not just cancking? Because the megajolt doesn't give a rev signal during crancking. Only when it's running.
http://www.clubstylus.be
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