55ant
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 02:58 PM |
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Alloy Wheel stuck to hub
Hello!
right im trying to take some alloys of my dads car, the only problem is they are stuck to the hub (yep, ive taken the bolts off)
i have been up to the local mechanic and weve had it up on the ramps and hit it with some wood and a hammer to no avail! never seen one this tight,
anyone got any tips? dont really want to cut the wheel of just yet.
Anthony
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BenB
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:00 PM |
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Can you not liberally spray penetrating oil through the bolt holes and generally lubricate the thing? You would obviously need to thoroughly clean the
brake disc afterwards but worth a shot.
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blakep82
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:05 PM |
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as a last ditch attempt, put all 4 (or 5) wheel bolts back on with a little bit of slack, and drive round some tight corners slowly, but too
slowly?
wouldn't say its a brilliant idea, but if all else fails...?
________________________
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adithorp
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:05 PM |
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Hit it harder!
If that doesn't work put the bolts back in but loose and drive it around the block then see if it's worked loose. Obviously this
isn't exactly safe, so be carefull.
I usually use the first option.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Jomibo
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:06 PM |
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I normally use a size 9 to free it! or you could try slackening the nuts slightly and drive around a carpark untill loose. (last resort)
Otherways are using a dead blow hammer or remembering to use copper slip in the first place 
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clairetoo
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:10 PM |
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I'd try a bit of heat on the centre of the wheel - ally expands a lot faster than steel , so it should come off easy when warmed .
Not too sure about the other method - what is this `driving slowly' that they are on about ?
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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britishtrident
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:18 PM |
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The ONLY way to do it is to slacken the bolts off 2 turns then drive the car backwards and fowards for three yards or so when stopping apply
the brakes hard.
If it is a driven wheel it can be sometimes done without dropping the car from the jack.
Important not to go round corners, don't hit the wheel but hitting tyre is OK and don't apply heat.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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ReMan
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:28 PM |
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yep, happens badly with my saab and the wifes toyota
As said drive it slowly with loose nuts 
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loggyboy
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
as a last ditch attempt, put all 4 (or 5) wheel bolts back on with a little bit of slack, and drive round some tight corners slowly, but too
slowly?
wouldn't say its a brilliant idea, but if all else fails...?
This is what I would and have done before. Works fine, and you only need to drive round 1 or 2 bends.
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55ant
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:37 PM |
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ok cool, i shall put away the bigger hammer and go for a short drive, will try the 3 foot method first,
away from cars, now cycling and building TT bikes
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55ant
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 03:43 PM |
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its off! thanks for all the tips, the rolling method worked after about 5/5 attempts and ended up working with a screeching stop. Although im sure
fans of the hammer method will argue that the 20 minutes of hammering loosened it!
LCB Saves the day again! awsome.
[Edited on 30/7/10 by 55ant]
away from cars, now cycling and building TT bikes
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Hellfire
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 04:16 PM |
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Use a light smear of HMP Grease between the back of the alloy and the Hub. Stops the dissimilar metals reaction thing... causing it to seize up in the
first place.
Steve
[Edited on 30-7-10 by Hellfire]
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 05:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
as a last ditch attempt, put all 4 (or 5) wheel bolts back on with a little bit of slack, and drive round some tight corners slowly, but too
slowly?
wouldn't say its a brilliant idea, but if all else fails...?
Up and down the drive is probably enough, was for me
[Edited on 30/7/10 by norfolkluego]
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Canada EH!
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 05:45 PM |
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Common problem here in Canada with salt on the roads all winter.
I have used both methods mentioned.
Before putting the wheels back on wipe anti seize on the steel area of the hub the wheel fits against, it works.
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BenB
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 07:23 PM |
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Say after me........
Copper slip is my friend.
Copper slip is my friend.
Copper slip is my friend.
Copper slip is my friend.
Copper slip is my friend.
Copper slip is my friend.
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 05:45 AM |
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Probably a little bit late, but thoroughly wire brush the hub mounting surface and cetering ring before reinstalling the wheels.
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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55ant
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 05:21 PM |
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sorry chaps didnt read this after i got it of, but i cleaned the hubs with wire wool and the applied a big old lot of copper slip,
away from cars, now cycling and building TT bikes
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Hellfire
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| posted on 1/8/10 at 12:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 55ant
sorry chaps didnt read this after i got it of, but i cleaned the hubs with wire wool and the applied a big old lot of copper slip,
Good man 
Steve
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