paulbeyer
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| posted on 10/6/04 at 11:43 PM |
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4AGE ECU
Does anyone know what fuse I need to use for the main power feed to the ECU?
I've just about got my head around all the wiring and I dont want to end up frying it now.
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
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paulbeyer
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 04:52 PM |
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Nice to see so many 4AGE experts out there.
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
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Dale
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 05:08 PM |
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You will find many people using the 4age in the locost northamerica yahoo group
Dale
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robinbastd
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 09:26 PM |
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Sorry Paul,I thought I'd be able to help by looking at my Haynes manual. I found the right page(possibly) and am no clearer now than before.
Have you still got the donors fuse box/boxes?? If you haven't I have a rats nest of 4age engine harness and loom and I can have a look.
Ian
Only a dead fish swims with the tide.
http://smuttygifts.com/
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paulbeyer
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 11:17 PM |
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Yeah I've got the obligatory rats nest as well. I was hoping someone would be able to help without me having to wrestle with the loom again.
Been doing nothing else for the last 2 weeks. I keep trying to persuade myself that getting rid of the Pinto for the 4AGE was a good decision,
it's hard work though and as far as the Haynes manual is concerned? I've started wiping my arse with it.
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
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paulbeyer
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 11:26 PM |
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Hey Ian maybe you can help me out if you have some old 4AGE parts. When I removed my engine from the donor I managed to break the green connector on
one of the water temperature sensors. Mel at Raw Engineering gave me a second hand one from one of his motors but the plug is a different shape. If
you have a spare sensor or suitable plug on an old wiring loom I'd be interested. I can send a picture if it would make things clearer.
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
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robinbastd
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 11:54 PM |
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Paul,send a piccy. I've completely thrown my budget out of the window and bought a 20 valve,so I now have spares aplenty:
3x4ages
4 gearboxes
not enough driveshafts
1 Corolla
Coming soon....the Toyota 4age museum.
Ian
Only a dead fish swims with the tide.
http://smuttygifts.com/
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jmbillings
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 08:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by paulbeyer
Does anyone know what fuse I need to use for the main power feed to the ECU?
I've just about got my head around all the wiring and I dont want to end up frying it now.
Looking in my Haynes, its a 15A for the "EFi" fuse. You also would have the 3 big ones on the battery connector but these are more for the
car ignition/alternator feeds I think
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paulbeyer
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 09:39 PM |
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Thanks for that JM. I think I'm finally making progress with the wiring - fingers crossed. I just clicked on your www link but your site is
down. Will it be back up soon and does it have any 4AGE info?
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
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jmbillings
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 09:50 PM |
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I just noticed that link doesnt work too - all it was was a few pictures of the car taken at Rutland Water. Will try and re-instate them on thursday
if I can! No info on the engine though. Kept meaning to do a website "proper" but never got around to it. I'll try and help out with
any questions anyway, as I'm sure will others!
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 09:58 AM |
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Hi Paul,
The answer to your question hinges on how you are wiring it up.
If you are using the Circuit Open relay then 15A is required for the 'EFI' fuse because of the fuel pump feed.
If not then it can come down in value and a seperate fuse fitted for pump. A good way to add anti-theft is to add a switch to the pump feed
regardless.
The ECU 'sinks and sources' current. i.e. some sensors will draw current (ECU 'sources' or supplies current) others will
occasionally float ('sinks' current as dissipated heat in ECU). The ECU feed proper is terminal marked as 'Batt' on circuit
diagrams, depending on ECU. This has a shared feed with Stop' lights and probably can come down to 7A or even less.
Rob Lane
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paulbeyer
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 10:07 PM |
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Thanks for the info Rob. I am going to use the open circuit relay wired to the fuel pump, so I like your idea of putting a switch in-line to the pump.
As I've said before wiring is my achillies heel and if I knew before hand how much of a problem it would be for me I would have thought twice
about swapping out the Pinto. I only hope it is worth it in the end. It took me over a week to figure out what the open circuit relay did. I knew what
a relay was and how it functioned with four wires connected to it, but a relay with 7 wires? forget it. I have also decided to keep the Toyota engine
bay fuse box even though I will only use a fraction of its functionality. I tried to work out the internal wiring to figure out what connectors were
wired to what (fuse or relay terminal) but what a mess. Some terminals come out of one relay then dissapear into another, whilst one relay had three
outputs, 1 going to a loom connection and the other 2 splitting out to a 10 amp and 15 amp fuse before coming together again straight back into the
same relay. What the hell is that all about? Way too complicated for me which is why I've decided to include the whole lot under the bonnet on
the premise that if it's needed it will be there and if it's not needed, so what. I hope my plan works as it's the only one
I've got.
7 out of 10 people suffer with hemorrhoids. Does that mean the other 3 enjoy them?
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jmbillings
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 10:29 PM |
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Thats the way we did it - we kept the underbonnet box as well, Im also using the cooling fan bits in it along with the efi relay and stuff. All works
a treat. Mounted the box up next to the battery so its not really in the way or anything.
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 17/6/04 at 08:42 AM |
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Paul,
If you lived nearer to me I would have lent a hand.
I have electrical and electronic experience, so sometimes I forget others see wiring as the devils work!
I took the loom from the donor and laid it out in a large open space. I then spread out the relevant parts , such as charging circuit, sensors etc.
If the wiring contained say, interior light wiring, then I stripped it out of loom. That way I only ended up with what I needed.
I removed the relay and fuse box and then mated it up to existing Ford loom.
I now wish I had documented what I had done for other builders use.
I know how car is wired, anyone else will have to work it out.
I intend to redo the instruments and dashboard soon, I have a carbon fibre dash to go in. During that rewire I will redraw the wiring diagram for
future reference.
Rob Lane
www.robs7.com
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sgraber
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| posted on 14/7/04 at 10:02 PM |
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I stripped my wiring loom out one circuit at a time. I was a bit unscientific about it I am afraid. My main goal was to rip everything out that
wasn't engine or guage related. So out came all the HVAC, fan, lights and accy circuits. Periodically I would fire up the car and make sure that
I hadn't snipped an essential wire and, as luck would have it, I did. One more than one occasion! So, I would tie the most recently cut wires
back together and start the engine, then disconnect each cut wire one at a time. That did the trick and I was able to remove every unused circuit! A
weight loss of close to 20Lbs! (10Kg) Unfortunately I somehow disable the cold start circuits and the car is very hard starting. Since I plan on
MegaSquirting in the future then it doesn't really matter cause it'll all come out again anyways. 
I felt that the lighting and fan circuitry was overly complicated on the original car, so my intention is to simply run new circuits using the
existing fusebox and relays.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 21/7/04 at 11:49 AM |
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Sorry to hijack the thread slightly - I'm wrestling with the original Toyota loom at the moment and splicing it into my own fusebox / relays /
lighting circuits. I want to replace the Toyota oil pressure switch with a sender for an oil pressure gauge and so I bought what I thought was the
correct threaded sender from Lowtension, having measured the thread on the original switch with a thread gauge.
Needless to say they're infinitesimally different - anyone know what the thread on the block is? I thought 1/8" NPTF (which struck me as
odd on a Japanese car) but it doesn't seem to be. Doesn't look like M10 x 1 either, because it's got a taper.
Cheers,
Eddy
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eddymcclements
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| posted on 21/7/04 at 12:19 PM |
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Apologies - this has been answered on another thread...I just hadn't found it.
Eddy
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