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Author: Subject: Engine first start help
serieslandy

posted on 18/6/11 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
Engine first start help

I rebuilt my engine after it was sitting for 2 years, with no sump or rocker cover (silly I know)

I set up tdc and have wired it all up. Its also had some new oil change and new gaskets.

Its currently on a stand with all the electrics wired up and turns over well.
There was a big spark from the top of the coil when I didn't have the king lead on.

I can't get the engine to run, it will turn over and I can get flames to lick out of the exhaust ports (is this right?) when I put petrol down the carb.
I'm running the car on a boat fuel tank that is gravity fed and the standard pierberg carb, also tried using the pump on the side of the pinto to the carbs (that didnt work either)

Has anyone got any ideas or what I'm doing wrong?

Thank you guys.

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corrado vr6

posted on 18/6/11 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
Have you double checked the HT leads are on in the right firing order only suggest this as I was baffled the other day as to why my mini wouldn't start are you sure your not 180 degrees out?





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serieslandy

posted on 18/6/11 at 04:14 PM Reply With Quote
I was thinking that the bottom end might be 180 out compared to the top.
Is there a way to check now the rocker and sump are on?
I'm pretty sure the leads are correct as I wrote the order onto the dizzy cap when I took them off.

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mark chandler

posted on 18/6/11 at 06:07 PM Reply With Quote
Just swap them around, no need to check as its binary, either correct or not
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serieslandy

posted on 18/6/11 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
Guys I'm really confused now, I managed to get the engine to fire but really roughly and it threw petrol out of the carb when it cut out.
so was going to swap the tdc over to see if that was the problem. I started to turn the crankshaft by hand and the belt just started jumping. The cam shaft moves freely and so does the crank but the auxiliary shaft will not move more than about 5º.

It did this before but I don't know what fixed it.

Felt like weighing it in so decided to tidy the garage instead (very rare for me)

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Lightybob

posted on 18/6/11 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
Have you checked the distributor, it sounds like it's in the wrong position
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serieslandy

posted on 18/6/11 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
The dizzy hasn't been moved since it came out the sierra, the rotor arm was set to no1.
Next time I get a chance I'm going to pull the dizzy out and see what the problem is. I think that the crank and cam are out 180deg, so that needs finding out then setting the dizzy.

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keithometune

posted on 18/6/11 at 11:41 PM Reply With Quote
are you turning the engine in the correct direction (clockwise) if so there must be something up with the aux shaft as that normally turns very easily, i would take belt of and check aux shaft, if ok reset cam timing and tension, if its a bosc dizzy there is usually a little notch cut on the top of the dizzy to indicate where no one lead should go. with no. 1 lead at the notch the firing order is 1342 in the direction of rotation. if it does not fire at all then move the leads 180 degrees if it pops and bangs try moving the dizzy around as you crank it
keith

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rusty nuts

posted on 19/6/11 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
There were loads of engine types used in the Sierra, It might help if we knew which engine you have ?? If it is a Pinto lump the rotate the crank until the TDC mark on the pulley is lined up and check that the cam timing mark is aligned then check that the auxiliary shaft marks are aligned. , correct if wrong. Finally check that the rotor arm is pointing to no1 plug lead,( there should be a small mark on the outer rim of the distributor for no1). That at least should get you in the ball park
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serieslandy

posted on 19/6/11 at 07:12 PM Reply With Quote
Its a 1.8 pinto with a bosch non vac dizzy and standard pierberg carb.
Had a look before going out this eve and I pull the dizzy out, that is moving freely and so was the auxiliary pulley so guess there is something up with the oil pump.
I got as far as taking the all the bolts out the sump and draining the oil. I won't get a chance to fiddle until Thursday now.

I couldn't see any marks on the distributed housing. Where the rotor arm pointed to no1 there is a recess in the body where a 3 pin plug sits.

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keithometune

posted on 19/6/11 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
it is a small cut in the side of the housing, the bit on which the cap fits
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