Moorron
|
| posted on 24/3/12 at 04:48 PM |
|
|
ZX12 coolant pipework q's
Hi guys me again, im still having temp issues with my A1 ZX12 Indy, my issue is in slow traffic or at a stop the engine temp rises and the fan comes
on but never turns off.
Im seeing 115 degrees on my temp gauge and it only drops down to 95 when i get moving above 40 mph. I spend the last few weeks remaking my cooland
pipework but im still unsure if im reading the bikes original setup correctly.
The issue is the bikes water/oil cooler pipework, seems sinple but i dont know which way the water is running thru it so cant check my connection
ponts. First time around i had a 'T' from the bottom rad-pump hose that run into the oil cooler pipe on the side of the engine and then
just left the bikes pipework which went from the oil cooler to the connection on the block just after the water pump. This is how the service manual
shows the route but instead of it comming from the 't' piece it would be from the bottom of the radiator on the bikes original unit.
After speaking to a friend he told me he couldnt see how the water was moving from the bottom rad hose thru the oil cooler in that dirrection, as the
pressure and flow is greater on the 'after pump' side. He told me to take the 't' and stick it into the top rad hose but ive
done this and my fan still stays on.
What i need to know is which way does your oil cooler pipework run on your ZX12 installation, with pictures if possible so i can make sure mine is the
same before i start looking at other things. 
cheers
Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.
|
|
|
|
|
minitici
|
| posted on 24/3/12 at 05:52 PM |
|
|
I think your original piping was correct.
Feed for the oil cooler should come from the cold side of the radiator (i.e. bottom hose).
 
zx12r cooling
Perhaps you need an electric pump to assist at low revs and to avoid heat soak when stopping.
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 25/3/12 at 05:50 PM |
|
|
We have a tee piece in the bottom pipework which feeds the oil cooler as per your original setup. Do you have any vents in the bonnet to allow hot air
to escape in standing traffic? The size of mesh in your nosecone (assuming you have some fitted) could also be restricting airflow.......
Phil
|
|
|
Moorron
|
| posted on 25/3/12 at 08:10 PM |
|
|
looks like i got it right the first time around so ive making more pipework today. I just could see how water is moving that way when the pump is
pushing it the other (at the block connection).
Hellfire, it was fine with my other ZX12 engine so i dont see why it could be those, i do have large vents at the rear sides of the bonnet and the fan
seems to be doing it job of moving hot air thru the rad. But with the bonnet off the fan switches on and never off.
The car works fine over 30mph, and i do see the temp needle move when i blip the throttle at idle so think its coolant flow or lack of at low rpm.
I could swap the water pumps from the old engine to the new one but every time i rmove something off either engine i end up spending days trying to
drill out the snapped bolts so really only want to do this as a last resort.
I really need to get my hands on a set of ZX12 clocks to see what the bike would be showing, has any one got an old set or a spare one i could lend?
its the temp gauge i need working only.
cheers
Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.
|
|
|
speedygonzales
|
| posted on 27/3/12 at 12:23 PM |
|
|
If you're saying the setup worked with your old lump, then I don't see why it should be any different with the new one - unless the
cooling circuit is so much more restrictive on your new engine?
If you want to measure the coolant temperature, why not just stick on some coolant temp tabs around your cooling system. You'll get a really
good idea where the hot spots are. If you've got metal coolant pipes it will work well as they are good thermal conductors (and the water
temperature won't be that different). Even on rubber hose it will give you some idea.
At least you'll identify where the problem is. You can also tell which way the flow will be as the temp tabs should heat up quicker on one
side.
I think a bigger rad and/or an electric pump would be the things to go for if you want a quick & easy solution.
|
|
|
