loggyboy
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| posted on 6/4/12 at 10:54 PM |
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Striker Gearbox / tunnel Clearance
Been trail fitting my gearbox, but seem to be having an issue with getting it far back enough to fit prop fully and line with mount holes without
clashing with the back of the engine bay.
Anyone got any pics of there install? or point out something i may be missing out.
Its a standard 5 speed type 9, from a 1.8 cvh with demountable bellhousing.
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Dopdog
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| posted on 6/4/12 at 11:01 PM |
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I do not think you need to be that far onto the prop? I do not think mine is that far on. Its only a couple of screws I will have a pic for you in the
morn.
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clanger
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| posted on 7/4/12 at 09:51 AM |
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striker tunnels are pretty tight but do-able. as stated as long as there's plenty of prop into the gearbox there should not be any problems. is
the gearbox mount pre-drilled? if not just re-postion to give a bit more clearance in the tight bits, alternatively a little bit of grinding on the
bell-housing here and there won't harm it. the starter area on the bell housing will be very close to the passenger foot well when its in, but
as long as its not touching 3-5mm should be ample clearance.....
just make sure the gearbox casing at the selector end has a bit of room around the tunnel members as this can move a fair bit side to side on the
rubber mount when its up and running...
also on a side note, make sure you anchor the pedal pivot bar rather than split pin through...............the previous builder of my car did just that
on mine. Result was the bar rotated in the pedal box causing elongation and wear of the shaft....
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carboy0
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| posted on 7/4/12 at 10:42 AM |
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If you are sure that the front of the bellhousing is at the right height, mount the rear gearbox onto its crossmember and see what happens when the
weight of the gearbox settles on its rubber bush. This will drop the rear end a little which may help with clearance (or it may make it worse) either
way it's a truer picture of where the gearbox will end up. Different bellhousings have different (wider/narrower) bellys on them, so a
different (narrower) bellhousing could help.
Chris
www.marinacoupe.co.uk
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loggyboy
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| posted on 7/4/12 at 11:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clanger
is the gearbox mount pre-drilled?
Yes it is predrilled and im about 10-15mm short. Even if I redrill with a decent amount of clearance for some movement around the bellhousing im
going to be very close if not on the angle of the mounting plates.
quote:
Originally posted by clanger
also on a side note, make sure you anchor the pedal pivot bar rather than split pin through...............the previous builder of my car did just that
on mine. Result was the bar rotated in the pedal box causing elongation and wear of the shaft....
Thanks, the other end of the bar has a small flat plate to bolt it to the side of the pedal box
quote:
If you are sure that the front of the bellhousing is at the right height, mount the rear gearbox onto its crossmember and see what happens when
the weight of the gearbox settles on its rubber bush. This will drop the rear end a little which may help with clearance (or it may make it worse)
either way it's a truer picture of where the gearbox will end up. Different bellhousings have different (wider/narrower) bellys on them, so a
different (narrower) bellhousing could help.
As above, I cant bolt the mount up as its short of the predrilled holes. I have guessedamated the angle of the box based on getting the bellhousing
end vertical, and even if I was to move it up or down a few degrees, it would still touch the tunnel opening.
Cheers for the pointers both here and by U2U.  - Might direct the query to Raw on Tuesday.
[Edited on 7/4/12 by loggyboy]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 11:44 AM |
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Well this is Raws suggestion:
Trim the bellhousing..
Anyone else got this on their Striker?
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Norfolkluegojnr
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 12:01 PM |
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I've got a type 9 in my striker, will have a look when I get home.
I don't recall anything having been chopped off - is it not just a slightly to short prop shaft?
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loggyboy
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 12:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Norfolkluegojnr
I've got a type 9 in my striker, will have a look when I get home.
I don't recall anything having been chopped off - is it not just a slightly to short prop shaft?
Ive been told its fine for the prop to be 20mm or so out, but its the pre drilled gaerbox mount dont line up, so the gearbox needs to be pretty much
where it is, I can of course elongate them, but that still means the tunnel would be close, so by doing this it does look like I would have 5mm or so
clearance on both sides.
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Norfolkluegojnr
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 12:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by Norfolkluegojnr
I've got a type 9 in my striker, will have a look when I get home.
I don't recall anything having been chopped off - is it not just a slightly to short prop shaft?
Ive been told its fine for the prop to be 20mm or so out, but its the pre drilled gaerbox mount dont line up, so the gearbox needs to be pretty much
where it is, I can of course elongate them, but that still means the tunnel would be close, so by doing this it does look like I would have 5mm or so
clearance on both sides.
SO its cut the bellhousing as the only option? Could you not move the mount slightly?
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loggyboy
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 12:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Norfolkluegojnr
SO its cut the bellhousing as the only option? Could you not move the mount slightly?
I could redrill holes but would only give a few mm, and dont fancy rewelding the bracket as its all powder coated.
The position the box is in the pictures, its touching the chassis, so Id need to move it out another 10mm to get about 5mm clearance on the pedalbox
side (due to the angle the pedal box is at). This would mean 10mm less prop in the hole too.
I guess Raw must have done this before hence the picture theyve sent, but I would want to plate over the hole really as i dont want water and stones
etc getting to the clutch mech. Just wondered if it was something that happened on all, or more recent strikers, or if its just one of those things
that happens with design tollerances etc.
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Norfolkluegojnr
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 12:38 PM |
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Will have a look and let you know later.
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Dopdog
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 02:29 PM |
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I still think you need to have the engine and box complete in the hole, you cannot guess where you think it will go. on the older sylva strikers you
did have to cut the bellhousing to fit them in. I have a type 9 on a 4age and will get some pictures for you as I will be in the garage tonight.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 12/4/12 at 03:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dopdog
I still think you need to have the engine and box complete in the hole, you cannot guess where you think it will go. on the older sylva strikers you
did have to cut the bellhousing to fit them in. I have a type 9 on a 4age and will get some pictures for you as I will be in the garage tonight.
Maybe, but as i dont have engine mounts made up yet, the exact location of the engine is going to be guess work to a certain extent. The gearbox would
have to be abotu 100mm lower than it is at the mo to make any difference to where it catches (ie so the starter motor bulge, and clutch arm, would sit
under the bottom edge of the chassis!)
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