Tigers
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 05:26 PM |
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Hammerite - your experience
Hi!
I'm thinking to paint my chasis with Hammerite, as I dont't know any other rust preventive paint. Do you have any experience with it? Does
it realy works?
Isn't it too soft for chasis and do I need any primer for that?
Thanx, Janis
PS. Also maybe someone can suggest where to buy weld-through primer online (in europe), because I keep on asking it here, but no one seems to heard of
such thing... 
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rash
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 05:42 PM |
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hi
i am going to use hammerite for the chassis but i am going to prime mine first with galvafriod its a little expensive but it is a superb rust
preventor hope this is of some help
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 05:47 PM |
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i found hammerite chips too easily,i painted mine with red lead,use a small roller for better finnish ,then household gloss,dulux or another name
brand is usually better than b&q type stuff
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 06:25 PM |
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not keen on hammerite either, it does chip very easy.........
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 07:34 PM |
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por 15 1000£ a litre bullet proof
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Viper
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 07:42 PM |
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£1000 a ltr? wants to be made of gold....
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 07:55 PM |
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Hammerite is great for what its intended for - heavily pitted, descaled rusty parts. It will not adhere to smooth surfaces like your chassis will be.
If you do want to use hammerite, leave your chassis at the bottom of your local harbour for a fortnight before you paint.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Viper
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 07:56 PM |
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or have it blasted first
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 08:17 PM |
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..and then use a decent paint!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 08:32 PM |
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Hammerite (especialy the smooth version) chips very easily in my experience, because it is so hard when it (eventualy) dries.
I have primed bits of my chassis in Davids Zinc 182 primer, and it seems remarkably tough. Just need a decent topcoat, was wondering if the Jenolite
"Repaint" stuff was any good?
POR seems to get glowing reports, though very expensive.
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Dusty
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 08:42 PM |
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Weld through primer is available in Halfrauds as U-POL #2 Weld through primer in spray cans.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 30/8/04 at 10:47 PM |
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I use Chassis Black from the local Agricultural Merchant. Tough as old boots, and Cow / Pig p!ss proof as well!
Cheap and cheerful, I use it on my Landrovers..
Galvafroid, Excellent, but expensive... Hold Up a tin... its heavy.. ie loadsa Zinc in it.
Hammerite, too brittle, especially the smoothrite version. excellent on a slightly rusty surface, ie not good on new bright bare metal. (IMHO).
Best Regards
GeoffW
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Tigers
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| posted on 31/8/04 at 01:03 PM |
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The problem is that my chasis has already started to rust in some spots (keeping it in quite humid garage )
Of course I'm going to clean it with The TOOL before painting anyway.
Thanks for tips!
Janis
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 1/9/04 at 09:10 AM |
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Sounds like POR15 would be ideal. Then topped off with chassis black by POR.
Used it at the weekend - great stuff, just don't get it on your skin!
http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=28
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/9/04 at 09:21 AM |
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My main complaint with Hammerite is the "repaint within a set time, or wait 6 months" problem. I want a paint that just dries, not one
that cures over the major part of a year!
I've used POR-15 quite a lot - just remember that you must use Metal Prep before, as it just won't stick to shiny metal. It sticks like
the proverbial once the surface has a key.
David
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craig1410
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| posted on 1/9/04 at 11:42 AM |
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I have used Smootherite on my front uprights and a few other suspension components and it is "alright". I agree that the recoat within 8
hours constraint is a bit of a pain and requires a bit of planning ahead to avoid missing the re-coat window.
For my chassis I used an acid etch high build primer (SuperEtch) which wasn't expensive. It comes as a 1 litre tin of primer and a 1 litre
bottle of activator/thinner and that was plenty for two good coats on my entire chassis, floor and de-dion axle. Dries very very fast and gives
excellent build and superb adhesion. I then scuffed this down and painted with Dulux Weathershield black gloss using a cut down foam roller.
It's very nice paint to work with and goes on easily. It dries overnight and is hard in a week or so.
Cheers,
Craig.
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Tigers
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| posted on 1/9/04 at 12:27 PM |
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Ok, I ordered POR15. Was a bit expensive, but I hope it will be good.
Thanx for sugestions!
Janis
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violentblue
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| posted on 1/9/04 at 03:30 PM |
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the powdercoating place in town did a friends hot rod chassis for $80 cdn, he just brought it to them blasted and ready to go. can't buy paint
for that price.
a few pics of my other projects
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nutter
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| posted on 1/9/04 at 08:32 PM |
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use chassis black, thats what its desgined for, you can get it and lots of other cool stuff from here http://www.frost.co.uk/
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