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Author: Subject: running in a race engine
metro6r4

posted on 29/4/12 at 08:19 PM Reply With Quote
running in a race engine

hi im currently building my haynes locost with a k series engine that i use to use in my tin top racer anyway the crank seal has gone and i have to have the crank machined to take the imput shaft from the straight cut box i have just had rebuilt so im considering forgeing he botom end while is apart but i have no way of runing it in im using an emerald ecu if thats any help any ideas and opinions would be apreciated

[Edited on 29/4/12 by metro6r4]

[Edited on 29/4/12 by metro6r4]

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rdodger

posted on 29/4/12 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
If you are using an Emerald can't you take it to Dave Walker who must have a map for pretty much any spec of K series and get him to run it in on his engine dyno?
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Big_Al

posted on 29/4/12 at 08:37 PM Reply With Quote
Dave supplied me with a base map for my zetec install (i know it is a different engine) which ran fine from the very first turn of the key. I am sure he must have something to get you going.
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metro6r4

posted on 29/4/12 at 09:00 PM Reply With Quote
its not so much a problem of getting a base map its that the car is not going to be road legal so i have no way of running it in and putting the required mileage on the pistons i think i will have to speak to dave and see if he will run it in on the dyno
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owelly

posted on 29/4/12 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
Do you really need to run it in? The oils we have available these days an the tolerances the components are made to pretty much negate the need for running in. New engines used to be run-up on compressed air before installing in cars but they don't bother so much any more and you don't see brand new cars trundling along with 'RUNNING IN-PLEASE PASS' signs in the back!
The engines I've built get run gentle for a couple of miles, oil changed, than game on. I've never had one pop yet or die early!





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MK9R

posted on 29/4/12 at 09:57 PM Reply With Quote
Why not do an airfield day or two, will be damn boring butnot too expenssive and you can tootle round for as like.





Cheers Austen

RGB car number 9
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metro6r4

posted on 29/4/12 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
if i took it to a couple of airfield trackdays wont i get in trouble for going to slow i wont have power before 4500rpm and i wont have had any shakedown time andit will be my first time out on a track that isn't an oval or coverd in grass

i dont like the idea of not running an engine in goes against everythiing lernt when my bro raced bikes i know that castrol is good oil but id still rather run it in and be safe rather than sorry

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Canada EH!

posted on 29/4/12 at 11:43 PM Reply With Quote
My race engines got two laps of Mosport at moderate speed, then WOT, rebuilt every 10 races.
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laptoprob

posted on 30/4/12 at 06:39 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Do you really need to run it in? The oils we have available these days an the tolerances the components are made to pretty much negate the need for running in. New engines used to be run-up on compressed air before installing in cars but they don't bother so much any more and you don't see brand new cars trundling along with 'RUNNING IN-PLEASE PASS' signs in the back!
The engines I've built get run gentle for a couple of miles, oil changed, than game on. I've never had one pop yet or die early!


+1. Just had an XE fully built and was on the dyno for 20 mins then oil dropped and then full beans and has been ever since.
Running an engine in has now virtually become a thing of the past.

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phelpsa

posted on 30/4/12 at 07:03 AM Reply With Quote
Rolling road / test day on crap oil to avoid bore glazing then move to a decent oil for competition. Use full revs and full throttle from the outset. That is what I was told by my engine builder.






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