mcramsay
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| posted on 26/12/12 at 09:45 PM |
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Type 9 hydraulic conversion
I'm looking up convert my type 9 box from cable to hydraulic, and I want the easiest option! I see that retro ford sell a kit for doing this
conversion, I was wondering if any one had used this kit and had any issues/ tips? From the look of the Slave cylinder on there pic on the website it
looks like the bleed pipe pokes out where the release arm goes, does this affect bleeding the cylinder at all ? I thought it would have to be mounted
in the 12 position so the bleed nipple is pointing upwards....if this is the case then the type 9 bellhousing does not allow this!.... I'm sure
it must work otherwise they wouldn't sell it! Any advice from any one that's used this kit before?
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Jed
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| posted on 26/12/12 at 10:24 PM |
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The easiest way to convert cable type 9 to hydraulic would be to take the route used on the TVR S1 - S3 range where they had an external slave
cylinder mounted on a bracket fixed over the opening where the release arm comes out of the bell housing. I don't have my S3 anymore so
can't take a pic but you might find something in the Pistonheads TVR S Series forum.
If you don't get any where ping me a pm and I'll see if I can dig up something.
Jed
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gavin174
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| posted on 26/12/12 at 10:53 PM |
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I bought the kit that rally design and burton sell
I got mine from rally design and they didnt say I needed a spacer..
got it all bolted (after having it modded as bleed pipe came off the bottom)
bolted it all in.. bleed it up..
pressed the pedal and the bearing popped off and I lost all the fluid
this photo was taken before the spacer was fitted...
top hose is bleed...
the other hose is feed from master cylinder
[Edited on 26/12/12 by gavin174]
http://www.essexkitcarclub.com
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 07:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcramsay
I'm looking up convert my type 9 box from cable to hydraulic, and I want the easiest option!
Why?
Been running a cable clutch in my Type 2, Type E and Type 9 since 1988 and never had an issue and never felt the need to change. Know several people
who changed to hydraulic thinking it would be smoother and more reliable and have since changed back to cable.
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gregs
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 09:14 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jed
The easiest way to convert cable type 9 to hydraulic would be to take the route used on the TVR S1 - S3 range where they had an external slave
cylinder mounted on a bracket fixed over the opening where the release arm comes out of the bell housing. I don't have my S3 anymore so
can't take a pic but you might find something in the Pistonheads TVR S Series forum.
If you don't get any where ping me a pm and I'll see if I can dig up something.
Jed
I did mine with a landrover slave cylinder mounted outside the bellhousing and shortened the arm.
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 09:19 AM |
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If you did a search then you would have found this to first linky and in my post
3rd one down there IS another linky that would have taken you to this a second or
original linky .
Hope these help
Oh and I had to modify the pedal slightly so that the pedal and push rod returned fully so that I didn't apparently ride the clutch and over
heat it/wear it out.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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Oddified
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 09:31 AM |
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I used a Vauxhall slave cylinder (Vectra/Astra etc etc), and made an ally spacer to fit it into the type 9 (similar to the picture above).
They're self bleeding type cylinders so you only need the main pipe to the top of the cylinder, simples
I had no choice but to use hydraulic, there isn't enough clearance in the tunnel for the clutch arm, and the exhaust manifold covers the area
where the cable should run.
Ian
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mcramsay
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 11:26 AM |
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The reason I want to change is Is my pet hate with the car last year when it was on the road was the clutch cable, I want to greatly increase to
reliability of the car, and it means one less cable that can snap and leave you stranded
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 02:21 PM |
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This is bound to be the kiss of death but I have had a cable clutch in both my cars since 1988 and never had an issue. Current car has been on the
road 20 years in February, still original cable. Has been used with road clutches and AP racing clutch. The one fact that kills most cables is when
owners both them tight to the pedal rather than allowing the end to rotate on the bolt.
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samjc
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 02:48 PM |
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Oddified how did you know how big to make the spacer ? As looking at similar ideas if my tunnels too small for the clutch arm. Looking at astras or
modeo slave cylinders myself, any pictures ?
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alladdin
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 03:24 PM |
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there is a very good guide to this conversion on the cheap on the turbosport forum. it uses an external cylinder.
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Oddified
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 03:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by samjc
Oddified how did you know how big to make the spacer ? As looking at similar ideas if my tunnels too small for the clutch arm. Looking at astras or
modeo slave cylinders myself, any pictures ?
Not 100% sure on the size, 32mm rings a bell but don't quote me on that!!. The slave cylinders are spring loaded to their full extended travel
so with a new clutch plate position the slave cylinder so it's pressed back in about 15mm (so it has around 15mm travel left to push the clutch
fingers), then it also has plenty of travel left to move back further in as the clutch wears (clutch cover fingers move out further towards the
gearbox as the clutch wears).
With a straight edge/squares/rulers/verniers, it's not hard to work out measuring from the engine-gearbox mounting faces.
A 0.7" master cylinder to the vauxhall slave cylinder works perfectly.
Ian
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Fatgadget
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 06:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
quote:
Originally posted by mcramsay
I'm looking up convert my type 9 box from cable to hydraulic, and I want the easiest option!
Why?
Been running a cable clutch in my Type 2, Type E and Type 9 since 1988 and never had an issue and never felt the need to change. Know several people
who changed to hydraulic thinking it would be smoother and more reliable and have since changed back to cable.
A hydraulic setup is much more versatile should for example the cable routing be non standard and or tortuous. Its also easy to change leverages by
simply increasing or decreasing master and slave bore sizes.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 28/12/12 at 10:01 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Fatgadget
A hydraulic setup is much more versatile should for example the cable routing be non standard and or tortuous. Its also easy to change leverages by
simply increasing or decreasing master and slave bore sizes.
The cable route has always been strait forward on my cars, pedal to clutch arm. I have seen cars where people have been sold LHD bellhousings which
made the cable excessively long and the route difficult but they are a rare exception.
Nothing wrong with the leverage Ford designed, always fine for me and never felt the need to modify it.
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