jon200
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| posted on 14/1/13 at 08:59 PM |
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Engine/gearbox/prop alignment.
Is there a tolerance tht I should be working to? Obviously in an ideal works it should all be dead straight inline. I am struggling to have the engine
back enough and get it all straight. I either need to chop the chassis on the vertical section on the driver side or notch the bell housing but
that's a different story.
Is anyone running their engine slightly angled in the bay?
Jon
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jps
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| posted on 14/1/13 at 09:07 PM |
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Apparently in an ideal world it isn't all supposed to be perfectly aligned, having a slight angle allows the u/j's to move slightly with
each rotation, making them last longer...
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jon200
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| posted on 14/1/13 at 09:10 PM |
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Really, well if that's the case then I've learned something new today.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/1/13 at 09:29 PM |
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You need a slight angle on the prop UJs otherwise they will fail .
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unijacko67
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| posted on 14/1/13 at 09:39 PM |
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Look up phasing.
http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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jon200
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| posted on 15/1/13 at 03:56 AM |
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That's an interesting read thanks, I was thinking that because or torque it all needed to be inline. Good job I asked. Because of the Darrow
tunnel I can't offset the engine left to right though. I can angle it slightly or have it inline, which would be better?
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Slimy38
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| posted on 15/1/13 at 08:19 AM |
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If I understand the concepts correctly, having it inline will mean that both UJ's aren't working, so they will both wear out. Having the
engine angled will mean that the engine end UJ will work but the diff end won't, so that one will wear out.
Are you able to set the engine lower and get the parallel working that way? The article suggests between 1 and 3 degrees which isn't a great
deal.
Interestingly, the Haynes roadster manual says 'In general, the plates should be fabricated to ensure that the gearbox is level and pointing
directly at the rear mounted differential', and I think the Locost says something similar. So you're not along in your assumption that
straight line is best!
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jps
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| posted on 15/1/13 at 08:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Interestingly, the Haynes roadster manual says 'In general, the plates should be fabricated to ensure that the gearbox is level and pointing
directly at the rear mounted differential', and I think the Locost says something similar. So you're not along in your assumption that
straight line is best!
When I first started building my car I, perhaps naievely, assumed that having everything aligned to the n'th degree and measured in thousands of
an inch was going to be the case for every component. The more I read and actually do stuff the more I realise that 'it looks straight to the
eye' is often about as precise as it gets!!!
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johnemms
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| posted on 15/1/13 at 09:05 AM |
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The diff flange & gearbox flanges should stay theoreticaly
flush and square on with each other during - driving - up & down movement..
The prop angle varies & keeps the bearings moving..
If the flanges are not square on - one end of the UJ prop will have a shallower
turn point & rotate slightly faster than the other and give vibration and shake..
ie:
fixed diff no movement - angle gearbox down = bad
fixed diff no movement - square gearbox on to flange = good
somthing like that ... :p
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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Slimy38
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| posted on 15/1/13 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
The diff flange & gearbox flanges should stay theoreticaly
flush and square on with each other during - driving - up & down movement..
The prop angle varies & keeps the bearings moving..
That would work with a live axle, but as an example I'm looking at an MX5 donor with a fixed diff. The only up and down movement will be the
engine on it's mounts, and that won't be enough to keep a UJ running. I think I'll have to 'artificially' deflect the
engine in order to get the movement. But I will check the diff and engine as it sits in the donor, I wonder whether Mazda work on everything being in
line.
But yes, the parallel aspect also implies that the flanges are square related to each other.
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unijacko67
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| posted on 15/1/13 at 09:24 PM |
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Has anyone used constant velocity at gearbox and UJ at diff, live axle? That’s what I will be using on the kitten.
I have offset diff which has no more negative effect than the axle going up and down, for example if the output shaft flange and diff flange are
parallel to each other it makes no more difference being to one side 1” as axle travel up and down, so keep the engine to the side if thats where it
fits, dont point the engine/gearbox at the diff (plan veiw).
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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