pekwah1
|
| posted on 1/2/13 at 06:08 PM |
|
|
Striker and self centring
Hi guys,
I have a sylva striker with inboard suspension.
I am nearing the end of the build and am thinking about self centring.
My car has very little.
There doesn't seem to be a lot of castor and I don't see how I can introduce any either.
Any good tips on how I can improve?
Added a couple of useless pics:
Cheers
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
bi22le
|
| posted on 1/2/13 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
on my striker faster is added by moving the top wishbone forward.
this is done quite obviously with the locking nuts that are on the pivot part.
your rocker arm does look very different to min though..
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 1/2/13 at 06:24 PM |
|
|
You'll have to excuse my stupidity then, where is this obvious but that I can move forward?
|
|
|
Werner Van Loock
|
| posted on 1/2/13 at 06:31 PM |
|
|
Do you have any washers between the chassis brackets and the top wishbone/rocker on the pivot axle?
Same question for lower wishbones.
If there's no space for washers then it will be difficult to alter castor without cutting and welding.
http://www.clubstylus.be
|
|
|
Not Anumber
|
| posted on 1/2/13 at 06:52 PM |
|
|
Post up a photo of where the top wishbones bolt on to the chassis as this is the critical area.
In short if you have any moveable spacers such as packing washers these need to be shuffled so the wishbone is moved slightly further back.
However if your wishbones are mounted tight to the mount positions on the chassis with full width crush tubes and bushes and no spacers, then you will
either need need to change your lower wishbones or to try and obtain shorter crush tubes and bushes so there is room for washers as spacers.
I had a similar issue with my MK Indy (well known for lack of castor) and had a set of rose jointed upper wishbones made up by Phil at Talon. He
charged me £ 80 and it sorted out the problem. As the rose joints are considerably narrower than the original crush tube and bush arrangement these
are fitted with several packing washers on each side. It improved things immediately and now the castor can be easilly adjusted further by removing
the mounting bolts and moving one of the spacing washers to the other side of the rose joint.
|
|
|
steve m
|
| posted on 2/2/13 at 01:43 PM |
|
|
Andy
Also, i believe, over pressured tyres increase the self centering
Steve
|
|
|
Andy B
|
| posted on 2/2/13 at 02:01 PM |
|
|
The striker top rocker mounts and rockers were available in at least two configurations - fixed (which you appear to have) and adjustable where the
rocker came with a captive shaft , the rear pick up was a mount with a hole in and the front had a slot. The shaft had long threads and two nuts at
each end so you could slot it in and effectively float the shaft forward and back on the locknuts. A good idea in theory but disastrous on track as
the slotted front mount simply opened up and allowed the rocker to float out (in one case at a ton coming around Coram at Snett) We fixed the problem
by welding in a cross brace to lock the front mounts into position.
If you are feeling brave you could move the rocker mounts further apart and then shim the rocker forward or back as required
Hope that helps
Andy
|
|
|
loggyboy
|
| posted on 2/2/13 at 02:14 PM |
|
|
The style on my striker
Mistral Motorsport
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 2/2/13 at 06:31 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
on my striker faster is added by moving the top wishbone forward.
this is done quite obviously with the locking nuts that are on the pivot part.
your rocker arm does look very different to min though..
? I think you mean to increase caster either move the top wishbone towards the rear or the lower wishone forwards.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 2/2/13 at 06:33 PM |
|
|
Might just be the pic, but looks like a hell of an angle on that universal joint in the steering column?
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 3/2/13 at 11:45 PM |
|
|
Well finally took some more pics, hopefully of the right bit....
So it looks like there's a thick washer on either side but can't see this making much difference?
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 4/2/13 at 08:54 AM |
|
|
Yours are not adjustable. However others have managed to modify thiers to make them adjustable.
They removed the pivot bushes and shortened the tube that the pivot bushes fit in. Then refit the bushes and use washers either side to take up the
space (as the later Striker's and Fury's do). Moving more washers to one side or the other allows adjustment.
There's a thread about it on the JPSC forum a while ago.
HERE
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
JimSpencer
|
| posted on 4/2/13 at 09:06 AM |
|
|
Hi
That's the ones - move both of those washers to the front, and add a few (cough) extra lb's into the front tyres.
Should be all it needs.
Re the comments above about the steering column - it would normally go under that chassis rail (i.e. the mounting looks to be upside down) though
I've seen a couple done your way because something else gets in the way!
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 5/2/13 at 10:22 AM |
|
|
Thanks for all the comments guys.
Do you think moving back by one washer width will be enough?
Well i guess i'll give it a go, other wise looks like the arm's going to get chopped up!
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 5/2/13 at 10:46 AM |
|
|
I doubt just the one washer would have much effect. I'd go for cutting.
Looks like (from the second picture above) you could shorten the pivot tube by 10mm at the rear end (shouldn't need cutting both ends). Mark in
the link didn't have that much to play with due to the position of the welds on the arm, but still got good results. The bushes just knock out
with a drift through from the other end easy enough. Just be sure to cut it streight. Then pack out with washers.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 7/2/13 at 06:28 PM |
|
|
Well i've taken these off and put them straight back on again!
From my pictures it looks like there is enough material to trim down, but the other side of the arm is wider and doesn't look like i'd
really take much off at all, 5mm if that i reckon.
Think i'll see how wallet devastating a new set from raw will cost....
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 13/2/13 at 06:08 PM |
|
|
Well took them off and had another go, reckon I got around 10-15mm off.
Feels like its made a bit of difference but still not a huge amount, how much castor should there be?
Thinking I might still need to buy the new ones from raw...
|
|
|
steve m
|
| posted on 13/2/13 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
Andy
Dont forget the "high front tyre pressure trick" to aid with self centering
as all you are doing, is to get a pass, as you dont want it to stay like that after the test,
Mine, when i set it up for self cemtering was ORRIBLE on the road for normal driving, so ive reduced the castor angle and that was with 28psi
Now i doubt there is 16 in the fronts
Steve
|
|
|
pekwah1
|
| posted on 14/2/13 at 12:07 AM |
|
|
good point steve, forgot about tyre pressures, i'll give that a go and see if it's any good!
|
|
|
