tompat3463
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 08:39 PM |
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One for the paint experts
Hi guys. I'm restoring an old mini and busy welding it all up
I'm spraying my repairs with etch primer and I'm just wondering because there is going to be lots of etched primer areas by the time
I'm finished. Will this be ok for the new paint to adhere to ?
Also been looking on eBay at these respray kits. Item number 390118097462. I've got my own spray gun so not worried about the quality of that.
But does the rest of the kit sound ok and again will this paint system be ok with my etch primer ??
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sdh2903
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 09:06 PM |
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If you have a gun already then i wouldn't bother with that kit.
I reckon you would only need 2.5l of paint for a mini, unless you're doing inside too then it may be worth getting 5L. I did my seven in celly
flame red using the following and had some left over
2.5L celly high build primer
2.5 celly top coat
5l standard thinners
5l top gloss anti bloom thinners
5l panel wipe
box of tack cloths
4 boxes of 6in velcro sanding discs ranging from 400 to 1200 grit (these were 40 quid of the total)
I think the whole lot cost me 120 delivered from hugs paint on ebay. I've found you get a much better deal over the phone with both Jawel and
Hugspaint particularly where shipping is concerned.
Steve
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 09:08 PM |
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Etch primer is what I'm using on my full respray of my defender.
Etch primer then primer then metallic colour then clear coat
It's the best way to do it
So I would etch prime the whole vehicle if it was me
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Talon Motorsport
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 09:40 PM |
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Etch primer is ideal on bare steel how ever can cause problems with the original paint as it may react and try to strip it. This is where high build
primer hides all manner of sins when it comes to body work. Lay it on in light coats over the original paint and heavier over the striped back areas,
wait a day then block sand the whole thing so that it is flat. If you cut this process you will kick your self later when you lay down the first
colour coat trust me.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 09:59 PM |
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Good point, first time I did a test with etch it completely wrinkled the paint as that's what it's designed to do by etching into the
surface. Just spray etch on the local areas of bare metal then hi build over it. I would just use rattle can etch rather than mixing and spraying
yourself.
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Barkalarr
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 10:08 PM |
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Where are you based?
One of the lads from the local owns a paint supply business in East London - might be able to get some mates rates??
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benchmark51
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 10:10 PM |
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I have done a few repaints but wouldn't use cellulose. I usually go for good prepped (keyed) bodywork, a good 2 coats of 2 pack primer. If prep
was good no flatting neccesary. A mist coat of 2 pack top coat 5 to 10 minutes wait followed by a full coat of 2 pack top coat. Last cortina mk3 took
1.5 litres of top coat and really looked good. No polishing was neccesary either.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 10:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by benchmark51
I have done a few repaints but wouldn't use cellulose. I usually go for good prepped (keyed) bodywork, a good 2 coats of 2 pack primer. If prep
was good no flatting neccesary. A mist coat of 2 pack top coat 5 to 10 minutes wait followed by a full coat of 2 pack top coat. Last cortina mk3 took
1.5 litres of top coat and really looked good. No polishing was neccesary either.
I agree 2 pack is vastly superior but for a diy'er without any extraction or air Fed mask its a non starter (if you value you're life).
Cellulose is old hat but I did mine in my shed with no previous painting experience and with half a day's wet sanding and polishing I got a
bloody good finish.
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 10:28 PM |
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Danger! Danger, Will Robinson!
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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jonabonospen
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| posted on 6/3/13 at 11:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Talon Motorsport
Etch primer is ideal on bare steel how ever can cause problems with the original paint as it may react and try to strip it. This is where high build
primer hides all manner of sins when it comes to body work. Lay it on in light coats over the original paint and heavier over the striped back areas,
wait a day then block sand the whole thing so that it is flat. If you cut this process you will kick your self later when you lay down the first
colour coat trust me.
+1
MAC#1 ZX10R WORX BUILD BLOG: http://mac1-zx10r-worx-build-blog.tumblr.com/
MY PERSONAL BLOG: http://jonabonospen.tumblr.com/
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 7/3/13 at 07:29 AM |
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Watch out, that kit is a little deceptive. Note the "ready mixed" bit about the celly, I suspect it is pre-thinned 50%.
As to quantities, we recently sprayed our mini, but in 2k.
We used just about all of the 3l of paint for the main body, and 1/4 litre of white on the roof. Didn't spray all the interior, just the door
shuts and bits you will see.
I would get 5L of unmixed celly, you always ant some left over.
As to Jawel paints, if you order the "mixed to code" stuff it is good, and still very well priced. The std colours they sell (really
cheap) is OK too, but seems a but thinner to start with. This applies to 2k, not used their celly.
Top hint, get a tube of the acrylic stopper, marvellous stuff. Really, it is. The celly one is rather hit and miss.
And if not mentioned before, flat the primer with 600 or better still 800 grade paper. or even finer if you want an excellent finish. Anything
coarser and the topcoat will be scratched.
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tompat3463
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| posted on 7/3/13 at 03:27 PM |
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thanks fior the replies people
so ive been on the Jawel website and and now a little confuggled about types of coat.
am I right in thinking I would need.
2K primer + harderer
2K colour + hardener
then a 2k laquer + Hardener
thanks in advance
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