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Author: Subject: "How to" OEM zetec ecu with Pats info.
scottie

posted on 10/2/15 at 08:46 PM Reply With Quote
so you mean use a mondeo battery

had 3 complete engines sitting for a while now, l reg 1.6 ,r reg 2.0 and v reg 1.8, all with looms and keys etc for those that need them, still not sure if i should use the 1.8 or 2.0, not going in a locost, ive got plenty of space and already got the mondeo fuel tank mounted, trying to use all standard stuff for cheapness and reliability

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big_wasa

posted on 11/2/15 at 07:22 PM Reply With Quote
Any ford battery, they use silver calcium to take the extra voltage.
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scottie

posted on 20/2/15 at 10:56 AM Reply With Quote
sorry but its time for some more questions

now ive got my engine of choice mounted, (99 1.8,turns out its a blacktop) ive sussed out the alternator/waterpump/belt situation

ive been reading more into the wiring side,my ecu is a NOSE is this bad news ? i do also have a complete loom.ecu/key etc from a 2.0 with a OWLS ecu and also the same stuff from an L reg 1.8 with a BLOB ecu

i would rather use the NOSE one but if this is not possible and if i have read it right i can use the BLOB ecu with its loom and sensors

any help would be great

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big_wasa

posted on 21/2/15 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
The nose ecu should be fine as long as it's a manual transmission and not an automatic. You may have to work out some of the wiring your self.
The blob ecu is pre pats so is a little easier to wire up but more primitive with no obd2, they where worth money being pre pats but I havnt looked in years.

Either way use black top sensors for the black top and so on.

Cheers

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scottie

posted on 21/2/15 at 02:54 PM Reply With Quote
again thanks for the info

when i eventually work out blacktops from silvertops i will let you know

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spegru

posted on 16/3/15 at 05:40 PM Reply With Quote
Also NECK

Just a note to say that my setup based on this and the BASH ECU recently had to be replaced because of ECU failure - due to the common 2 cylinder firing problem.
Nothing to do with this mod.
Circuit board inside ECU was visibly fried in the area of Pin 26 - which is one of the feeds to the coil pack. Possibly a design weakness in the ECU or possibly it was fried by a faulty coil pack

So of course I had to get a new one, with its Key, but I couldn't get a BASH like I had before, let alone a OWL5 version.
I took a chance and got one from a similar age Mondeo (MK 2) called NECK.
40 quid, with its key, so it was worth a try!

Worked straight away with no wiring changes!

I already had tried a new coil pack that made no difference - but the old one is going in the bin anyway - in case it was the real culprit for this failure.

Seems to me that any version of this EEC-V ECU, as long as it's the 4 rows of pins version, from a petrol car with the same number of cylinders and same capacity engine, there is a very good chance it will work just the same as this

[Edited on 16/3/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 16/3/15 by spegru]

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scottie

posted on 26/3/15 at 07:04 PM Reply With Quote
right, im nearly there. cobbled together the wiring i thought i would need to get it going and messed about for ages

it is turning over fine but wont start, poured some fuel down it and turned it over and it burst into life for a few seconds

the pump seems to be priming but not pumping any other time, anyone any ideas ??

[Edited on 26/3/15 by scottie]

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scottie

posted on 26/3/15 at 08:13 PM Reply With Quote
cancel that, the pump is pumping , i think, its only getting about 10 - 11 volts by the looks of it

the only way to get it to fire is still pour some petrol down it

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spegru

posted on 26/3/15 at 08:56 PM Reply With Quote
One thing I forgot to do initially was to connect the ignition coil feed wire, since it doesn't actually come from the ECU at all. Centre pin of the Ford coil.
Do you have a spark? (maybe you are Dieseling)

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scottie

posted on 26/3/15 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
yeah, sparking ok
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scottie

posted on 27/3/15 at 09:18 AM Reply With Quote
fuel pipes now on the RIGHT way
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scottie

posted on 27/3/15 at 09:55 AM Reply With Quote
big_thanks to big_wasa for all the info on this thread , i have done a few efi projects over the years but this info made this a lot easier. engine fired up first time, once i had the fuel pipes on the right way

not exactly a lowcost but its defo a lowbudget build , heres my project


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big_wasa

posted on 2/4/15 at 10:47 AM Reply With Quote
Looks great and I bet one of them has never had a zetec under the bonnet before.

The how to turbo it on a budget is coming soon

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ravingfool

posted on 26/5/15 at 11:11 AM Reply With Quote
Hi all,

I bought pekwah1's blacktop zetec powered striker recently.

It's running a BASH ecu which seems to have the same wiring as per the "owl5" blacktop ecu pinout at the start of the thread.

I was just wondering if anyone had ID'd ECU pin 17 when stripping the loom from a mondeo?

It's described as by big_wasa as: 17 black/white -- to PIN 25 on c2513.

Which seems to suggest it doesn't have a use?

At the moment I've got this wired to earth which is how it came from Andy but I'm having a play to see if this actually does anything. I ran out of time last night but I've been busy rewiring the car, getting things to work properly and removing some of the wiring which isn't needed where possible... The car looks a complete mess of wires as a result but with only a couple of days messing around with wiring I'm nearly ready to tidy it back up and start enjoying it a bit!

Any suggestions would be great!

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big_wasa

posted on 26/5/15 at 01:55 PM Reply With Quote
I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched earth.

This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.

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ravingfool

posted on 26/5/15 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched earth.

This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.


Ok well that may make sense then.

Would it act as an earth when the ECU decides it is time to turn on the coolant fan? Or is it more complicated than that -you don't think it would run a standard relay?

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spegru

posted on 21/6/15 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
Focus EEC-V 60 Pin ECU

Having had a good result with Big-Wasa's info using a mondeo black top i thought I'd have another go using a Black top engine from an early 2.0 Focus.
To my surprise the ECU has only 60 pins - code TEAR.
At first I thought t must be an EEC-IV similar to a Sierra. From the info on the web the EEC-IV pinout is completely wrong for this one.
Luckily when I got the plug off it I see it's actually labelled as EEC-V
On another thread thread. I see that Big Wasa referenced a pinout list from Shorty (I cant find the original post)

So I'm hopeful of using this but I notice there are differences from the 104 pin type in that it refers to an 'immobiliser control module' - which I don't have from this car, although I do have the key

Would this 'control module' actually be the same thing as the PATS antenna?

Advice appreciated

[Edited on 21/6/15 by spegru]

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big_wasa

posted on 21/6/15 at 07:43 PM Reply With Quote
Yes pin 5 and pin 38 will be for the transceiver or pats ring or aerial call it what you will it's all just terminology. Shorty I think is on here but you will find his work and project over on the Haynes roadster forum.

Not all Foci are 60 pin. St and Rs are 104 pin.

I've just finished a 1.6 Zetec se Friday night. That was 60 pin as well. Also nearly as complicated as an St with pre and post cat O2 sensors and knock sensor.

Cheers

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big_wasa

posted on 21/6/15 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote

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spegru

posted on 22/6/15 at 10:36 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks very much for that info. I'll need to find myself a PATS ring. I think I may have a spare one in the garage from a Mondeo (so it's expecting to work with a 104 pin ECU)
. I hope the wiring will work out the same. Then again it's only a coil of wire presumably?

Very neat video btw!

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big_wasa

posted on 22/6/15 at 12:28 PM Reply With Quote
The transceiver will be fine from most fords of the same age but the black tops don't work with a silver top aerial and vice versa. There is a bit more too them than just a wire coil.
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big_wasa

posted on 22/6/15 at 12:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ravingfool
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched earth.

This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.


Ok well that may make sense then.

Would it act as an earth when the ECU decides it is time to turn on the coolant fan? Or is it more complicated than that -you don't think it would run a standard relay?


Sorry I seemed to have missed this. I never got around to developing this as it was easier to use a switch in the rad or an adjustable one in the hose. The standard set up has thermistors and other bits and bobs.

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spegru

posted on 8/7/15 at 08:46 PM Reply With Quote
I'm progressing with my 60 pin setup but not quite there yet - not helped by the fact that my wiring harness came separately fro the engine so I had to work out how to connect it all up. I even found a PATS key detector ring in a box in the garage (yes more than a coil of wire, it's got some chips in)
My first power on test resulted in the PATS LED coming on permanently but dimly. My bluetooth OBD dongle (which looks just like the one in the video) appeared not to work at all but later on showed a low current error had been stored when it was connected to another car, so it does look like there is a wiring fault

I am suspicious of one connector with a single thick grey wire that I can't work out what it is. It comes out of the focus harness near the coil. I am tempted to connect it to 12v....

I have been looking for Shorty but cant find anything relevant on here and am not sure if I am looking at the right Haynes forum as I cant find him so far.

Help appreciated as always.......

[Edited on 8/7/15 by spegru]

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big_wasa

posted on 8/7/15 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
Hi,

Most of Shorty's work was over on the Haynes roadster site. The site had problems and a lot of info was lost I am not sure if this was part of it.

The grey box is a noise suppressor. It's a 20um capacitor and yes it's just connected to the same 12v supply as the centre pin of the coil pack.

Try this.


"Shorty". Listed the 60 pin black top pin outs.

Enjoy



Pin No-Colour-Function
1-Red-Battery
2--
3-White/blue-Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
4-White/purple-Audio/cruise/trip
5-White/green-Immobiliser control module
6-White/red-Air con
7-White/purple-Cylinder head temp (CHT)
8-Green/black-Fuel pump relay
9-Purple/blue-Mass air flow (MAF)
10-Green/yellow-Air con
11--
12-Black/white-Injector 1
13-Black/blue-Engine coolant blower motor relay 1
14-Black/orange-Injector 4
15-Black/yellow-Injector 2
16-Black/yellow-Earth
17-Orange/black-Data link connector
18-Blue/black-Data link connector
19-Grey/orange-Data link connector
20-Black-Earth
21-Black/yellow-Idle air control (IAC)
22-Black/blue-Evaporative emissions (EVAP)
23--
24-White/purple-Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
25-White/purple-Intake air temp (IAT)
26-Yellow-Throttle position (TP)
27--
28-White-Power steering pressure(PSP)
29--
30-Brown/white-Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
31-Black/white-Engine coolant blower motor relay 2 AC
32-Black/red-Starter motor relay
33-Black/yellow-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)1
34-Black/blue-Injector 3
35--
36--
37-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
38-Grey/orange-Immobiliser control module
39-Black/orange-Immobiliser LED
40-Black/yellow-Earth
41-Blue-Alternator
42--
43-White-Clutch pedal position (CPP)
44-White-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)1
45-Grey-Alternator
46-Brown-CPP, CHT, HO2S, IAT, TP
47-White-Throttle position sensor (TP)
48-White/red-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)2
49--
50-White/blue-Mass air flow (MAF)
51-Black/blue-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)2
52-Black/green-Ignition aux circuits relay
53-Black/blue-Fuel pump relay
54-Black/yellow-AC compressor clutch relay
55-Brown/red-Crankshaft position (CKP)
56-White/red-Crankshaft position (CKP)
57-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
58-Black/red-Ignition coil
59-Black green-Ignition coil
60-Black/yellow-Earth

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spegru

posted on 8/7/15 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks. It would be a pity if Shorty's work has been lost. I am looking in http://www.haynes.co.uk/forum btw...
So all I have is that pinout that you posted before

I have that suppressor on the 104 pin setup but the connector is quite different having fairly thin wire in a 2 pin plug that only has one wire.
The wire in the 60 pin setup concerned is grey and is in a big single connector.
I am suspicious that it should be connected to 12v rather than a suppressor, as it's so thick - similar to the main green/blue supply wires

By the way that pinout info does not seem to include a rev counter?

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