had 3 complete engines sitting for a while now, l reg 1.6 ,r reg 2.0 and v reg 1.8, all with looms and keys etc for those that need them, still not
sure if i should use the 1.8 or 2.0, not going in a locost, ive got plenty of space and already got the mondeo fuel tank mounted, trying to use all
standard stuff for cheapness and reliability
now ive got my engine of choice mounted, (99 1.8,turns out its a blacktop) ive sussed out the alternator/waterpump/belt situation
ive been reading more into the wiring side,my ecu is a NOSE is this bad news ? i do also have a complete loom.ecu/key etc from a 2.0 with a OWLS ecu
and also the same stuff from an L reg 1.8 with a BLOB ecu
i would rather use the NOSE one but if this is not possible and if i have read it right i can use the BLOB ecu with its loom and sensors
The nose ecu should be fine as long as it's a manual transmission and not an automatic. You may have to work out some of the wiring your
The blob ecu is pre pats so is a little easier to wire up but more primitive with no obd2, they where worth money being pre pats but I havnt looked in
Either way use black top sensors for the black top and so on.
Just a note to say that my setup based on this and the BASH ECU recently had to be replaced because of ECU failure - due to the common 2 cylinder
Nothing to do with this mod.
Circuit board inside ECU was visibly fried in the area of Pin 26 - which is one of the feeds to the coil pack. Possibly a design weakness in the ECU
or possibly it was fried by a faulty coil pack
So of course I had to get a new one, with its Key, but I couldn't get a BASH like I had before, let alone a OWL5 version.
I took a chance and got one from a similar age Mondeo (MK 2) called NECK.
40 quid, with its key, so it was worth a try!
Worked straight away with no wiring changes!
I already had tried a new coil pack that made no difference - but the old one is going in the bin anyway - in case it was the real culprit for this
Seems to me that any version of this EEC-V ECU, as long as it's the 4 rows of pins version, from a petrol car with the same number of cylinders
and same capacity engine, there is a very good chance it will work just the same as this
One thing I forgot to do initially was to connect the ignition coil feed wire, since it doesn't actually come from the ECU at all. Centre pin of
the Ford coil.
Do you have a spark? (maybe you are Dieseling)
big_thanks to big_wasa for all the info on this thread , i have done a few efi projects over the years but this info made this a lot easier. engine
fired up first time, once i had the fuel pipes on the right way
not exactly a lowcost but its defo a lowbudget build , heres my project
I bought pekwah1's blacktop zetec powered striker recently.
It's running a BASH ecu which seems to have the same wiring as per the "owl5" blacktop ecu pinout at the start of the thread.
I was just wondering if anyone had ID'd ECU pin 17 when stripping the loom from a mondeo?
It's described as by big_wasa as: 17 black/white -- to PIN 25 on c2513.
Which seems to suggest it doesn't have a use?
At the moment I've got this wired to earth which is how it came from Andy but I'm having a play to see if this actually does anything. I
ran out of time last night but I've been busy rewiring the car, getting things to work properly and removing some of the wiring which
isn't needed where possible... The car looks a complete mess of wires as a result but with only a couple of days messing around with wiring
I'm nearly ready to tidy it back up and start enjoying it a bit!
Having had a good result with Big-Wasa's info using a mondeo black top i thought I'd have another go using a Black top engine from an
early 2.0 Focus.
To my surprise the ECU has only 60 pins - code TEAR.
At first I thought t must be an EEC-IV similar to a Sierra. From the info on the web the EEC-IV pinout is completely wrong for this one.
Luckily when I got the plug off it I see it's actually labelled as EEC-V
On another thread thread. I see that Big Wasa referenced a pinout list from
Shorty (I cant find the original post)
So I'm hopeful of using this but I notice there are differences from the 104 pin type in that it refers to an 'immobiliser control
module' - which I don't have from this car, although I do have the key
Would this 'control module' actually be the same thing as the PATS antenna?
Yes pin 5 and pin 38 will be for the transceiver or pats ring or aerial call it what you will it's all just terminology. Shorty I think is on
here but you will find his work and project over on the Haynes roadster forum.
Not all Foci are 60 pin. St and Rs are 104 pin.
I've just finished a 1.6 Zetec se Friday night. That was 60 pin as well. Also nearly as complicated as an St with pre and post cat O2 sensors
and knock sensor.
Thanks very much for that info. I'll need to find myself a PATS ring. I think I may have a spare one in the garage from a Mondeo (so it's
expecting to work with a 104 pin ECU)
. I hope the wiring will work out the same. Then again it's only a coil of wire presumably?
quote:Originally posted by big_wasa
I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched
This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.
Ok well that may make sense then.
Would it act as an earth when the ECU decides it is time to turn on the coolant fan? Or is it more complicated than that -you don't think it
would run a standard relay?
Sorry I seemed to have missed this. I never got around to developing this as it was easier to use a switch in the rad or an adjustable one in the
hose. The standard set up has thermistors and other bits and bobs.
I'm progressing with my 60 pin setup but not quite there yet - not helped by the fact that my wiring harness came separately fro the engine so I
had to work out how to connect it all up. I even found a PATS key detector ring in a box in the garage (yes more than a coil of wire, it's got
some chips in)
My first power on test resulted in the PATS LED coming on permanently but dimly. My bluetooth OBD dongle (which looks just like the one in the video)
appeared not to work at all but later on showed a low current error had been stored when it was connected to another car, so it does look like there
is a wiring fault
I am suspicious of one connector with a single thick grey wire that I can't work out what it is. It comes out of the focus harness near the
coil. I am tempted to connect it to 12v....
I have been looking for Shorty but cant find anything relevant on here and am not sure if I am looking at the right Haynes forum as I cant find him so
Thanks. It would be a pity if Shorty's work has been lost. I am looking in http://www.haynes.co.uk/forum btw...
So all I have is that pinout that you posted before
I have that suppressor on the 104 pin setup but the connector is quite different having fairly thin wire in a 2 pin plug that only has one wire.
The wire in the 60 pin setup concerned is grey and is in a big single connector.
I am suspicious that it should be connected to 12v rather than a suppressor, as it's so thick - similar to the main green/blue supply wires
By the way that pinout info does not seem to include a rev counter?