callumN
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| posted on 9/5/13 at 11:29 PM |
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R1 oil return problem after fitting sump baffle?
Hello from a newbie
I've just fitted a sump baffle plate to my 2008 R1. After refilling with ~3.8L of oil the level was above the top of the sightglass with the
engine off. When I started it the level quickly dropped below the sightglass and after about a minute of idling I noticed the low oil warning light
had come on so I shut it down, after which the oil level returned to above the sightglass.
From what I've read I think the level should be 3/4 up the sightglass when idling on a car install, as it was before I put the baffle in. The
oil never got that low before.
Is it possible that the baffle plate is somehow restricting the oil returning to the sump?
The baffle plate was for an 07 engine which meant I had to open out some of the holes to fit my 08 engine, my worry is that there is maybe some other
hole that should have been made which is now causing a restriction.
Surely the low oil light shouldn't be on when idling with an overfill?
Has anyone on here had a similar issue after fitting a sump baffle?
Should I keep chucking oil in and hope for the best?
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adithorp
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| posted on 9/5/13 at 11:53 PM |
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Although the oil level sensor is mounted in the bottom of the sump it stands up through and above the baffle level... Oh, and it's crap! If it
was the baffle causing it the oil would be held above the plate and the light be out and the sight glass full as thats abve the baffle as well.
It's a common complaint that the light comes on (check the R1 forums). I've done thousands of miles with the level light on. The level
does drop when running and it's worse untill the OIL temp comes up (a lot later than the water temp), it's just the amount of oil in
transit around the engine draining back slowly untill it thins.
The type of oil can also have an effect; I used to use Valvoline and it was a constant problem. I now use Silkolene Comp4 and it's much
better.
With the baffle plate in the car, you need to check the oil level with the engine running and HOT (fan been on). You want the level then to be 2/3 to
3/4 of the way up the sight glass. Don't go higher than that as the oil then gets frothed up at high revs and the float sinks and puts the light
on. It's not uncommon for it to come on with constant high revs anyway (like a track day). It can also be worse as the oil gets older.
Now I just treat it as a reminder to give it plenty of time to warm up fully if it comes on. Have you got a presure gauge? Have you done the breather
mods' as well?
[Edited on 9/5/13 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Davey D
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| posted on 10/5/13 at 07:08 AM |
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As above. On my 2006 R1 engine with the engine cold and not running the oil level is above the sight glass, then when you start it up the oil level
slowly drops below the sight glass, and the oil light comes on. Once everything starts to get warmed up the oil light goes out, and the oil level
slowly rises, and then stays 3/4 up the sight glass. Dont worry about it. Its just the crappy level sensors in the Yamaha engines. I know people who
race Yamaha R6 bikes even they have the light coming on when the engine is running whilst the bike is on a pit stand.
Fit an oil pressure gauge so you have a better idea of what is going on 
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callumN
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 11:01 AM |
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Thanks guys, I let it idle with the light on and it does go off and the level rises once hot. I just panicked when the light came on, and it goes
against the grain to let it run.
I've got motul 7100 in it and no pressure gauge. I believe the breather mod has been done by previous owner but haven't seen that side of
the engine yet to confirm - need to remove seats and a panel... I'll be doing this soon when changing the plugs.
Fitting a pressure gauge sounds like a good idea, any recommendations? (I plan to do the occasional track day)
Thanks again, this forum is great!
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/5/13 at 11:41 AM |
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There's 2 way's to fit an oil presure guage.
Common one is to drill and tap the oil cooler bolt for a take off for the capilary pipe or sensor.
Better one IMHO, is to fit an adapter in place of the plug on the end of the oil gallery (one either end). This is where Yamaha test the presure.
It's an m16 tread and Rally-design sell adapters that fit and then take either a sensor or a fitting for the capilary tube.
Personally I prefer the capilary guages to the electric ones. The sensors for the electrics don't always survive the vibration.
Easy way to see if the breather mod is done is to check if the AIS covers on the cam cover are piped to the breather. DON'T run it on track if
this isn't done (if it's transvers RWD then you might be OK)
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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